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I like to use a pool net to scoop off foam if it's there. I can never get it all, but a few minutes each time I soak noticeably reduces it. this one: Skimmer, deep, fine mesh net

you did. I'll stop with this. I feel like we're getting off topic. cheers.

You know, Ive thought about this, and the best answer I can come up with, is that there are other benefits by changing water as a 'best practice' recommendation. Removing salt is a big one. But also, everything else that accumulates in pools. Also temperature plays a roll, making it less...

A couple of years ago my ozone stopped making bubbles. So nice to not have to hear that anymore. Good riddance. Anyway there are times where it seems like I too, have a "chlorine debt" owed to the tub. Running SLAM protocols is also how I handle it. I'ts good practice to run CYA, and PH tests...

This will immediately oxidize your CYA to negligible amounts. You can test to confirm. With zero CYA Free Chlorine in the very low single digits is still very strong, and any higher amounts of Chlorine tends to immediately evaporate. Evaporate more quickly the higher the temp.

another thing not mentioned is temp. If you run the tub hotter in the winter, it will use a noticeably larger amout of chlorine.

It is on my tub. I use trichlor as my acid to counter act this. dichlor works too, but i found I had better water quality using pucks (I bust them up into smaller chunks) because of the slower dissolve rate. I use a dispenser dialed back for slow action. I estimate that CYA drops one point per...

I personally never had any luck with sunlight getting rid of cc's. I'm sure it works in the context of an outdoor pool, but in my spa, not so much. The solution that I finally worked out is to just stop testing for it. My tap water tests out at 4 cc's fresh out of the pipes that I use to drink...

In your chart there, I see you don't let alk drop below 80 before adding more buffer. Aim for an alk of about 50, then see how PH does. Keep in mind that dichlor works as an acid. You could just chlorinate with that, and put the alk test kit away for a while. Once your PH falls in line, then...

If your bleach is weak, perhaps you need to add cups at a time. Alls I'm saying is, what it says on the bottle - plugged into pool math, doesn't necessarily match up with what your test kit says. I could certainly pay (more than) twice as much for bleach, and add half as much, but what...

Did actually test your FC before and right after you added the bleach to see if you added what you thought? Bleach strength varies between brands, and will also vary with the same brand from one bottle to the next, and at different times of the year. With 4 people in a spa a chlorine debt can...

Yeah, it is what it is. You need to test, and add as needed. Turning down water temps helps increase the amount of time inbetween chlorine additions when not in use. About the salt water thing, what this does, is just make chlorine for you. That's it. Sounds like it would be nice to me...

I get foam sometimes. I scoop it off with a net. That makes it go away.

I'm ignorant about the scum buddy, but oils/lotions cause foam. You can remove this with the net. Also lowering temp slows chlorine loss. Try to do this when not in use. Yes indeed to all the other stuff.

Just as an antidote: I tell you an experience I had about a month ago, and what I did to clear it up. My tub went 5 days with no chlorine added, and at 104 degrees the whole time. Cloudy? Oh yes. And smelled like rotten fish. gross. It took nearly a gallon of bleach just to get the chlorine...

Not really. The clouding comes from bacteria growth in the water. You need to kill it with chlorine, or you'll end up with a rash (hot tub itch), or worse. People have died from lung infections (legionnaires disease) from not sanitizing their tub. This is no joke. This biofilm issue is related...

It should be noted that the root of your problem is an insufficient amount of chlorine. The chlorine granules leave behind CYA in the water after the chlorine has been used up. As CYA levels increase, chlorine levels need to be increased as well. The backbone of trouble free pool method, is to...

I'd just like to note that I use trichlor pucks in my spa. It's certainly not a TTP method, but I find that it works for me. I keep track of PH, and CYA levels through testing, along with FC, according to TFP guidelines. So long as PH is 7.5 or higher, and CYA levels are below 100, I bust up a...

Not to put too fine a point on it, but the person that said this doesn't know what they are talking about. Chlorine is Chlorine. Here are the ways the different kinds effect water chemistry: Certified Pool Operator (CPO) training -- What is not taught Yes, bleach adds more salt than the dry...

I use trichlor pucks for acid. I bust em up into small chunks, then add it to a floater that's dialed way back for slow release. It takes a while to dissolve and lower the PH, but seems to work fine for me.

Only you can decide if the 400 is worth it for you. Where it comes into play, is on days that the tub doesn't get used. If you can get out and test and add chlorine every day, then the SWG isn't worth it. If it's worth your time and effort to ignore the tub for a 3-6 days at a time, you'll fine...

I can tell you that I don't like the ozone thing on my tub. I think they put them on all tubs. Anyway, it bubbles and make noises that i dislike. If I were to do it over again I would have them disconnect it, and remove it right from the get go. Also, there are drop in SWG's that you can get...

having a good cover that isn't waterlogged, and seals well is where to focus on heat retention. make sure you can sit in the thing, and like the seating arrangement before you buy. no need to be impressed with ozone, or those mineral things(frog whatever). they are not of any use. a spa with a...

I always wondered why a water to water heat pump isn't considered for this application... draw heat from the pool.

I'm not sure why you say this. 1400 is not a high level of salt I don't think. What is recommended level for your SWG? In your sig, is says 1725 gallons, so, what, at best that's 4ppm FC? I've found that late in the summer like now, bleach has degraded from summer heat. You may just need to...

Well, first, we should probably confirm that you have the recommended testing equipment. You're not using paper dip strips, are you? Second, have you used a pipe cleaner to clean out the scum in your pipes? TFP recommends ah-some. Pipe scum is an ongoing issue with spas, and definitely...

I'd suggest using the small trichlor pucks, in an adjustable floater. New water with no CYA dosn't need very much chlorine to stay clear. The puck will release chlorine slow and steady, keeping the water nice. The downside of course is that trichor is quite acidic. So you'll need to set the TA...

The reason for this is because they want you to buy paper dip strip testers that cost more money. They don't work. So, test for TA instead of PH. Also they want to sell you dichlor instead of bleach. Bleach is very close to PH neutral, whereas dichlor is acidic. Having a higher TA means longer...

This question keeps coming up. Over and over again. The non-TFP answer is that if you are not calculating CSI (do not have plaster or grout), you should ignore TA completely, and just adjust PH. If PH is too high, lower it, if it's too low raise it. By small increments, tested daily. This is...

sounds a bit high. but quite possible depending on how much people soaked in it. also, how hot the temp is. yes. carbon dioxide left the water while the jets ran (like soda going flat), and co2 has acid in it. so ph rises. also chlorine make ph rise when 1st added, then falls back to starting...