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so I performed the 'motor disengagement' trick mentioned elsewhere and the self test does now run in reverse for a few seconds.. when I drop him in the pool, runs for a few seconds and then the lights turn off.. doesn't seem to matter which mode/program I start with.. I'll try the above...

I've taken the little guy apart and unclogged some debris from the impeller after it would run for just a few seconds and then stop. I performed the self test out of water and it runs forward, pauses and starts up again but running in the same direction.. all the youtube videos and support...

correct. had a tarp over the pad for about the last 3 days but that's been it. we got down to -2 early this AM but still had power until 6a today so that probably helped. we just got power back about an hour ago and everything started right back up again.

so far so good after my prime/pump issues this AM.. we had a 4-hr power outage starting around 530p tonight but kept breaking up the slush and we're free and clear of any ice buildup with the pump at 3450rpm in freeze protect mode once power was restored. hoping we're good at least until early...

once we have daylight I'll go out and check the skimmers during the prime.. I had put in milk jugs as suggested in this thread.. I've taken those out during the prime.. weirs should be down to let water in and I shouldn't see a vortex, right? I do get some air bubbles from a single return which...

I've check the skimmer weirs to make sure they weren't frozen/stuck in the up position which might have been affecting the prime.. they look okay.

well shoot.. we had a rolling power outage for about 30-45 minutes around 3am and the pump refuses to prime after power is back on.. it'll try and either complain that it's dry or will timeout.. I've been hand stirring the surface to keep slush away.. skimmers aren't frozen and the water in the...

yeah, was wondering the same.. Variable speed here.. was going to rely on the freeze protection that kicks in.. if I have a set of shelf bubblers that are typically off, should I turn those on to be safe?

thanks guys. I'll have to troubleshoot further tomorrow.. I am able to control other circuits (pool lights, pool pad security light) from the ET8 in both auto and service mode. does that do in good in pointing towards a board vs antenna problem? my protocol adapter is hard-wired into my router...

ET is connected to the protocol adapter via the wireless link. just checked.. I'm in auto mode now and pump display shows whatever speed I manually set it to from one of the buttons on the pump itself. any harm in a restart of the ET panel at this point? if it helps troubleshoot any, if I drop...

this was working just fine but has now ceased working. I updated the firmware on the protocol adapter successfully, installed the latest version of the software (5.2, 738) as I was running 5.2/736. I've tried unplugging power to the unit, paperclip reset on the adapter.. nothing seems to work...

so that note about 'checking all the basics'.. weir doors were stuck up... fixed that and able to prime.. I did turn those 2 other handles down and the psi jumped from 2 to 5 so that's a good sign. Jim- I owe ya lunch the next time I'm in Bedford! :)

- - - Updated - - - that's an excellent point.. duh.. it's been a long day :) let me get some pics posted of the pad

this might be typical but worth mentioning.. there's a significant amount of airflow/circulation near the arrow above when pump is priming.. doesn't appear it's coming from the pvc joint above but hard to tell.. should I be noticing any airflow from there or might that be indicative of a leak...

yeah, I should have noted I've done most of the basic checks. pool water is a good 2/3 up on the skimmer openings.

IntelliFlo VS pump won't prime after I cleaned out the filters (pentair CCP). equipment pad is a long ways from the pool but the filter basket is half full of water when I try to prime. I've let the hose run for several minutes to make sure there's water in the supply lines and have opened the...

well, we left on vacation for a week and left the neighbor in charge of basic maintenance. apparently "put 2 pucks in the floater" was interpreted as "toss 2 pucks into the pool" as we now have a pair of softball sized stains on the bottom of the pool when we got home.. from some quick searches...

OCLT passed overnight (assuming setting the IC60 to 0% output is the same as turning it off completely). Salt level is back up to 3600 according to ScreenLogic so I'll see if it's able to maintain today though the cloudy/overcast forecast won't be the best conditions to troubleshoot under.

FC was around 6-8 when things were running smoothly.

so this is my first summer with the pool here in DFW and everything was going fine chemistry-wise until recently. I'm running my pump 24/7 at a low speed, but enough to switch the SWG on and I've got it set to 95% now (it had been at 65% when behaving properly). Salt level per ScreenLogic was...

apologies for the thread bump but I had this earmarked as a DIY project for our first swim season in TX. anyone experiment with various sizes of PVC to see if it might increase the flow/height? I've got 1.5" coming from the pool returns and then tee'ed into one section with 3/4" and the other...

thanks all.. the water itself is crystal clear thanks due in large part to this site. I'll drop the pH a bit as a first order of business and get some pucks going to raise the CYA some at the same time. looks like each puck will raise my CYA around 2ppm and poolmatch does have my CSI at around...

first time with the pool this summer and noticed some small white flakes on the bottom/ledges of the pool near a return so I'm guessing they're coming from there. I do notice some white sandy-like stuff in the robot cleaner as well. A quick search looks like a combination of high TA/pH/CH might...