Recent content by RickW2007

Test seems accurate in my smaller test tubes for both the OTO chlorine and the PH test. I will still order the proper chemicals for my kit form here so I don't have to keep multiple test tubes

backwashing is not bad! backwashing is a normal process of a sand filter. Once the pressure increases the filter is less efficient and a backwash followed by a rinse is required to return it to operational standards.How often you backwash will be based on the amount of crud the filter is getting...

every year I fight the PH for the first half of the season upon opening my pool. This is due to high TA in fill water. Once the TA is brought down to a level your pool likes the PH will balance out and you will use very little MA( I find the exact number doesn't really matter it's just where...

It's more precise and sticks to the chemistry of the pool better adding single chems based on levels. The results of sticking to the TFP method is a crystal clear pool that everyone will envy, and in my experience the clearest water I've ever seen with absolutely zero chlorine smell or...

yeah full sunlight you will fight loss due to sun more than loss due to chlorine doing it's job during a SLAM.us pool math calculator to tell you how much CYA to add or use the charts on the back of the stabilizer bottle. wait 3 days I believe between adding cya and testing because it is way...

well the amount your able to drain at one time on an in ground pool is based off of ground water levels. If you drain to much with a high ground water level you will "float" the pool and destroy it. Partial drains you will never get the same effect as draining 90% at one time. You will have to...

If the dot never disappears then there is no CYA present. Finish clearing the pool with a SLAM before adding CYA. stabilized chlorine requires higher levels for SLAM so you will use less chlorine to maintain proper levels. Unless the pool is never shaded than add CYA because you will lose too...

SLAM is not complete until water is crystal clear, and it passes the overnight chlorine loss test. From sundown to sun up you should lose no chlorine, and have no CC. Also it will take much longer to SLAM and waste countless gallons of chlorine killing the sludge on the bottom of your pool if...

My k-2006(not sure if its "C" or not) lasted me two seasons before ordering a TF-100 refill kit to refill everything for this season. I tested cya twice the first season, once after adding CYA and a second time after adding more to get to the desired level. Second season was once upon opening...

find a way to order a good test kit, without it you can not use TFP method to maintain pool. otherwise yeah dump soda ash and chlorine until you get desired results. PH will not balance and stabilize until you've adjusted it enough to bring the TA into proper range. Chlorine wont stabilize...

yeah I ran into the concentration problem this afternoon when testing. the red for PH is definitely inaccurate in the k-2006 sized test tube. but I have a regular smaller tube to see if its accurate with that one. I also tried to use the basic chlorine test. It showed high color was way yellow...

I'm assuming thats the same thing as the chlorine and is basic reagent. basically the same as r-004 - - - Updated - - - I know I should have just ordered the proper refill kit but my understanding was the tf-100 was a supersized version of the k-2006.

ok, so thats the basic chlorine test not the dpd test reagent, that will be useful and I can use it with a cheap test tube for my SLAM. Also they have none of the same PH reagents only r-0014 and my kit came with r-0004-6

DPD powder also seems alot chunkier than orginal taylor kit which was small granules

ok so I ordered a TF-100 refill kit to use to refill my taylor k-2006 kit. My kit does not have a R-0600 reagent, but the refill kit does. The refill kit does not have r-0003 leading me to believe these are the same thing, but I want to double check before using it as such.