Recent content by KimBee

We don’t unfortunately

Just to close the loop with all of you wonderful advisors on here, on Sunday evening I ended up changing out about 1/3 of the pool water using my sump pump at the bottom of the deep end and hose at the top of the shallow end. That brought down the CH somewhat to a range I think I can live...

Ok got it - thank you all!

Wow, okay. What level CH would I need to get the pool to in order to not need that level of routine acid adding? Would doing a continuous water displacement with the hose help enough to make an impact?

just double checking that I can indeed proceed with adding the stabilizer with pool CH at 675?

Yeah, completely draining the pool would be our last choice…but what are your thoughts on doing a displacement by adding hose water to the pool and the excess volume will just exit via the overflow drain? And is this urgent? Or can I move on to the CYA?

Also I did do this modified method with the pool water and that’s how I got 27 drops total for a true blue = 675 ppm

I just did the CH test using water right from the spigot that was used to fill the pool and it‘s only 175 ppm! Unfortunately I don’t have a log of what’s been added to the pool other than what I’ve done starting this weekend. We’ve been paying a pool guy to manage the chemicals up to this...

Early February of this year as the placed fiberglass shell was backfilled.

Yes, we filled the pool from the hose and already know our municipal water supply is hard - we have to routinely clean off calcium build up on shower heads, etc. in the house so this doesn’t surprise me.

Thanks everyone. 27 drops of R-0012 to get to this blue. So 675 ppm.

Quick question - is violet considered “blue“ on the CH test? Pic attached. If that‘s blue for the purposes of this test, then it only took 7 drops just now and the CH would be at 175 ppm. (When I last ran the CH test over a week ago, I was looking for a true blue)