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We don’t unfortunately

Just to close the loop with all of you wonderful advisors on here, on Sunday evening I ended up changing out about 1/3 of the pool water using my sump pump at the bottom of the deep end and hose at the top of the shallow end. That brought down the CH somewhat to a range I think I can live...

Ok got it - thank you all!

Wow, okay. What level CH would I need to get the pool to in order to not need that level of routine acid adding? Would doing a continuous water displacement with the hose help enough to make an impact?

just double checking that I can indeed proceed with adding the stabilizer with pool CH at 675?

Yeah, completely draining the pool would be our last choice…but what are your thoughts on doing a displacement by adding hose water to the pool and the excess volume will just exit via the overflow drain? And is this urgent? Or can I move on to the CYA?

Also I did do this modified method with the pool water and that’s how I got 27 drops total for a true blue = 675 ppm

I just did the CH test using water right from the spigot that was used to fill the pool and it‘s only 175 ppm! Unfortunately I don’t have a log of what’s been added to the pool other than what I’ve done starting this weekend. We’ve been paying a pool guy to manage the chemicals up to this...

Early February of this year as the placed fiberglass shell was backfilled.

Yes, we filled the pool from the hose and already know our municipal water supply is hard - we have to routinely clean off calcium build up on shower heads, etc. in the house so this doesn’t surprise me.

Thanks everyone. 27 drops of R-0012 to get to this blue. So 675 ppm.

Quick question - is violet considered “blue“ on the CH test? Pic attached. If that‘s blue for the purposes of this test, then it only took 7 drops just now and the CH would be at 175 ppm. (When I last ran the CH test over a week ago, I was looking for a true blue)

I owe you all an update today and with much gratitude! Results as of 20 minutes ago: pH 7.3 FC 1.0 CC 0 TA 50 @Texas Splash - muriatic acid added yesterday and earlier today based on the Effects of Adding in the Pool Math app and the pH on the comparator block is now looking SO much better at...

Thank you for the tips! It’s a simple pen type pH meter with a cap that covers the probe so no mention of storing it moist in its instructions. (That said, I worked in a wet chemistry lab about 20 years ago and do recall our pH meter electrode being stored that way! And we calibrated daily...

Yes I understand that, thank you. Before adding anything else to the pool, I’m going to pick up some dI H20 and recalibrate my pH meter, too. I came across something here on TFP about how to dilute a pool water sample with dI water to overcome the FC interference to get a better sense of a...

It just occurred to me that if a very high FC impacts the phenol red pH test…what if my pool guy has taken the comparator block results as gospel and has been adding acid trying to bring the pH down?

Yes, I had read that about high FC messing with the pH test! So I’m not sure what to think about what the pH really is between the phenol red test and my pH meter as they aren’t in agreement.

Comparator block just run again. 😊

I posted a pic of the comparator block from about 45 mins ago in post #25. I will run it again and post another pic…stay tuned.

Thank you - just changed it to 0%!

I used Taylor test strip for Salt last week and it was at least 5000, which is highest the strip range goes (so high).

Last night we did add Borax and tested. Since the TA and the pH both went up, we added baking soda and let the filter run all night. At midnight it occurred to me that I hadn’t looked at what the salt cell output had been set at (I figured it wouldn’t be that high given even the pool guy knew...