Recent content by C0d3Sp4c3

That's odd but indeed, very interesting! Do you have a multimeter and are confident working around electricity? Find out if pin#12 of the U5 chip switches from Hi (24vdc) to Lo (0 vdc). Please reference the schematic diagram below. I am not into a repair business but feel free to pm me for a...

Interesting! But how did you calibrate the cell if the reading is 0? On a known good bd, the relay should click even if the cell is disconnected as long as the switch is in Auto. The relay should click approx 10 seconds after the Generating LED turns on. Your cp's stopwatch might come in handy...

Did you get the newest mainboard this time with sw r 1.47? I don't think replacing the Thermistor will fix the problem that you're having with the old board. A T-5 cell does not put a heavy load on the thermistor as much as the T-15 does. But if you would like to venture out, get an EEPROM...

It looks like a corrupted EEPROM data. There have been a few threads in this forum for the same issues with no known fix. Reprogramming the U4 (93C46B) 16-bit Serial EEPROM should fix it. But I have not known anyone here who has gotten around it. Try to call Hayward and see what they can do.

@OP, You have sw r1.58 and it looks like the thermistor AS32-2R05 is cracked. The picture's quality makes it hard to confirm that. However, the display should be working. The TB1 jumper setting on your board suggested that you are wired for 120VAC operation. Make sure that the 120VAC is present...

In case you want to stay with the same AS32 models. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ametherm/as32-2r025/2614388

You might have the wrong references. Pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is Positive 5Vdc. Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading This might give you some leads in troubleshooting your AQR bd.

I hope this video will help others troubleshoot their Aquarite Salt cell temperature sensor. AQR Salt Cell Temperature Sensor bypass

It should work for Aquarite. Try it! I have this old AQR mainboard sw r1.55 with a hacked 10k resistor soldered on the PCB to spoof the temp sensor. I move the jumper to the 10k resistor during cold months for uninterrupted chlorine production or remove the jumper to keep the temp sensor line...