Recent content by ant 83

I like to use a pool net to scoop off foam if it's there. I can never get it all, but a few minutes each time I soak noticeably reduces it. this one: Skimmer, deep, fine mesh net

you did. I'll stop with this. I feel like we're getting off topic. cheers.

You know, Ive thought about this, and the best answer I can come up with, is that there are other benefits by changing water as a 'best practice' recommendation. Removing salt is a big one. But also, everything else that accumulates in pools. Also temperature plays a roll, making it less...

A couple of years ago my ozone stopped making bubbles. So nice to not have to hear that anymore. Good riddance. Anyway there are times where it seems like I too, have a "chlorine debt" owed to the tub. Running SLAM protocols is also how I handle it. I'ts good practice to run CYA, and PH tests...

This will immediately oxidize your CYA to negligible amounts. You can test to confirm. With zero CYA Free Chlorine in the very low single digits is still very strong, and any higher amounts of Chlorine tends to immediately evaporate. Evaporate more quickly the higher the temp.

another thing not mentioned is temp. If you run the tub hotter in the winter, it will use a noticeably larger amout of chlorine.

It is on my tub. I use trichlor as my acid to counter act this. dichlor works too, but i found I had better water quality using pucks (I bust them up into smaller chunks) because of the slower dissolve rate. I use a dispenser dialed back for slow action. I estimate that CYA drops one point per...

I personally never had any luck with sunlight getting rid of cc's. I'm sure it works in the context of an outdoor pool, but in my spa, not so much. The solution that I finally worked out is to just stop testing for it. My tap water tests out at 4 cc's fresh out of the pipes that I use to drink...

In your chart there, I see you don't let alk drop below 80 before adding more buffer. Aim for an alk of about 50, then see how PH does. Keep in mind that dichlor works as an acid. You could just chlorinate with that, and put the alk test kit away for a while. Once your PH falls in line, then...

If your bleach is weak, perhaps you need to add cups at a time. Alls I'm saying is, what it says on the bottle - plugged into pool math, doesn't necessarily match up with what your test kit says. I could certainly pay (more than) twice as much for bleach, and add half as much, but what...

Did actually test your FC before and right after you added the bleach to see if you added what you thought? Bleach strength varies between brands, and will also vary with the same brand from one bottle to the next, and at different times of the year. With 4 people in a spa a chlorine debt can...

Yeah, it is what it is. You need to test, and add as needed. Turning down water temps helps increase the amount of time inbetween chlorine additions when not in use. About the salt water thing, what this does, is just make chlorine for you. That's it. Sounds like it would be nice to me...

I get foam sometimes. I scoop it off with a net. That makes it go away.

I'm ignorant about the scum buddy, but oils/lotions cause foam. You can remove this with the net. Also lowering temp slows chlorine loss. Try to do this when not in use. Yes indeed to all the other stuff.

Just as an antidote: I tell you an experience I had about a month ago, and what I did to clear it up. My tub went 5 days with no chlorine added, and at 104 degrees the whole time. Cloudy? Oh yes. And smelled like rotten fish. gross. It took nearly a gallon of bleach just to get the chlorine...