Pentair CVA 24 Actuator Died

Aug 30, 2011
32
Fort Worth, TX
Well, it appears the actuator for my spa control died last night. The switch on the back doesn't move it back and forth anymore. I did take the motor off the top of it and manually moved it so the spa would keep water at least. I will check to see if the connection came loose from either side prior to making a decision on what to do.

My question here is should I replace it with the same thing? I would need a 180 valve controller, but is there a better option? This lasted about 3 1/2 years before coming to this apparent end. Wondering if another brand/model would be better for our setup since I have the opportunity to replace it. Any insight would be great y'all!!

Thanks!!
 
My PB used all Pentair equipment except when it came to valves. He used Jandy valves and actuators and it he likes to use stuff that gives him little trouble in the long run. He services a lot of the pools that he builds. So i guess that would be a vote for Jandy by one PB.
 
I would pop the cover on the motor and try to trigger the micro switches manually. Sometimes they go bad or slip out place causing the actuator to stop cycling. New micro switches for the pentair valves are sold on eBay for $11. In my case, new switches fixed the problem.
 
I would pop the cover on the motor and try to trigger the micro switches manually. Sometimes they go bad or slip out place causing the actuator to stop cycling. New micro switches for the pentair valves are sold on eBay for $11. In my case, new switches fixed the problem.

The actuators are pretty bullet proof, except for the micro switches. I have had a pair of actuators (Compool - now Pentair CVA-24) going on 22 years now and have had to replace the micro switches every 4 or 5 years. I also soldered all the connections inside the actuators, including the switches.

Here is a link for the proper switches (Omron SS-5T)

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ss-5t

One caution, do not attemp to bend the leads on the switches. I have found this to cause pre-mature failure of the switch. You can cut off the middle lead if you want.
I always keep a batch of 4 of these on hand.
 
The actuators are pretty bullet proof, except for the micro switches. I have had a pair of actuators (Compool - now Pentair CVA-24) going on 22 years now and have had to replace the micro switches every 4 or 5 years. I also soldered all the connections inside the actuators, including the switches.

Here is a link for the proper switches (Omron SS-5T)

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ss-5t

One caution, do not attemp to bend the leads on the switches. I have found this to cause pre-mature failure of the switch. You can cut off the middle lead if you want.
I always keep a batch of 4 of these on hand.

Thank you. This fixed my actuator. I ordered six of them and wish I had ordered a dozen.
 
The actuators are pretty bullet proof, except for the micro switches. I have had a pair of actuators (Compool - now Pentair CVA-24) going on 22 years now and have had to replace the micro switches every 4 or 5 years. I also soldered all the connections inside the actuators, including the switches.

Here is a link for the proper switches (Omron SS-5T)

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ss-5t

One caution, do not attemp to bend the leads on the switches. I have found this to cause pre-mature failure of the switch. You can cut off the middle lead if you want.
I always keep a batch of 4 of these on hand.

Thanks a lot for the link. I agree with the other person a lot better deal than ebay.
I would also add that when repairing the valves make sure you apply some Vaseline around the oring on the shaft. If this oring tears or becomes damaged you will get water inside the actuator.
 
Seems to me that the switches would be the most sensitive component about temperature. It would not cost you much to change out the switches and see. One other thing to try would be to unplug and re-plug the cable that goes into the actuator several times to break any corrosion that may exist on the contacts which may be temperature sensitive. Also make sure there is no water in the actuator which could freeze. I assume just one of your actuators is exhibiting the problem.
 

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Thanks for the advice on the switches. We have two Compool automatic actuator valves, and one recently stopped working intermittently, so we swapped the motor from one actuator to the other actuator and concluded that it is probably the micro switches that are causing the failure (there was still an intermittent problem after swapping the motors). Just ordered a dozen switches from Mouser and have some hope this will fix my actuator problem. This is the third actuator problem I've had in 3-1/2 years of owning a new pool. The first two were covered under warranty. This time I'm on my own and was dreading buying a whole new actuator set up. Thanks again!!!
 
The actuators are pretty bullet proof, except for the micro switches. I have had a pair of actuators (Compool - now Pentair CVA-24) going on 22 years now and have had to replace the micro switches every 4 or 5 years. I also soldered all the connections inside the actuators, including the switches.

Here is a link for the proper switches (Omron SS-5T)

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ss-5t

One caution, do not attemp to bend the leads on the switches. I have found this to cause pre-mature failure of the switch. You can cut off the middle lead if you want.
I always keep a batch of 4 of these on hand.

Gary, U Rock!! I was just about to buy a new valve when I stumbled across your post. Ordered the switches as per your post and it worked. Thanks for saving me $140!!
 
I know this is an old thread but I had replaced the micro switches because of erratic operation but the actuator was still not performing right so i dug a little deeper and found a capacitor wired into the switches that had corroded leads causing the erratic operation. It was a 35 mfd, 100 V non-polarized.....

found a 33 mfd flavor on line and reconnected it with gel filled splice connectors and all is back to normal for $2 in parts.
 
My actuator has been intermittent. Changed the micro switches but still intermittent, just in one direction. Took a close look at the 3 position switch at the bottom and saw one of the wire socket plugs loose. Still hanging on but loose. Tightened all the sockets and no more problem. May never have needed to replace the micro switches.
 
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My Compool CVA 24 actuator has also .stopped working. The motor seems to be gone. Can I just remove the actuator and replace it with the Jandy model? Will the temperature sensors still work? What about the Hayward model of a similar product? Am a bit confused as to what is compatible with what. There are many parts

1- control panel
2- actuator
3- 3-way valve
4- temperature sensor which decides where the water goes (pool or solar panels)

All 4 pieces have to work together. So the actuator has to be able to plug into the control panel for power. The temperature sensor has to be connected to the panel and the panel has to be able to activate the actuator.

Am kind of at a loss here. There's Hayward, Pentair/Compool, Jandy. Are all pieces interchangeable and easily replaced by a true novice?
 
Most brands are just a rebranded compool cv-24. Intermatic also makes a cheaper version which is compatible. All you have to do is replace the actuator on the three way valve body and then plug it into your solar controller. Then make sure the toggle switch on the bottom is in the correct position.
 
Most brands are just a rebranded compool cv-24. Intermatic also makes a cheaper version which is compatible. All you have to do is replace the actuator on the three way valve body and then plug it into your solar controller. Then make sure the toggle switch on the bottom is in the correct position.

Thanks. So had a new Pentair cv-24T actuator installed to replace the older one. It works but now the Compool lx220 panel does not work on AUTO. It will turn the actuator by moving the switch to ON (and the solar light then comes on) but the moment I switch it to Auto it turns the solar off. The toggle switch is in the correct position. I suppose the sensors may have failed or the sensor wire got disconnected from the panel when they replaced the actuator ( done by a pool company not that familiar with solar) or perhaps the lx220 panel is gone. Hayward makes a replacement product. Can get the panel and sensors or for small extra amount panel, sensors, 3-way valve and valve actuator. All covered by a warranty of 3-5 years. Wondering how long these valve actuators last and whether it's worth have a spare. My lx220 panel is over 12 years old and no support around here unfortunately. Is there a quick way of checking the panel?
 

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