Salt level concerns & question

hensler74

Gold Supporter
Sep 16, 2021
98
Fort Worth TX
Pool Size
11250
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
I have used my Taylor K-1766 test kit to test the salt levels in my pool and have some concerns. The test it steadily coming back at 4400 ppm. According to the Jandy Aquapure 1400 manual I should be between 3200-3500 ppm. My aquapure is showing 3800 ppm. I know I can recalibrate the SWG to match what the readings are with the K-1766 test but if I do this won’t it shut down my SWG? I also know the only way to lower it is to drain some off and refill but not sure if I should do this or not.

Looking for some guidance on what I should do. I just recently finished a 8 day SLAM and totaled up how much liquid chlorine I had to add and that was 21 gallons which I know contributes to the salt level going up.

Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
Taylor K-1766 test kit to test the salt levels in my pool and have some concerns. The test it steadily coming back at 4400 ppm
Hey Hensler,

The end point for this test is a bit different than other Taylor tests. For most tests, you keep dropping until there is no further color change, then subtract the last drop.

For the salt test, the first change (that holds) from yellow to a milky salmon (brick red) is the endpoint. The test has an error rate of +/- one drop or 200 ppm.

According to the manual, high salt concentration above 4 ppm may damage the control center.
 
Hey Hensler,

The end point for this test is a bit different than other Taylor tests. For most tests, you keep dropping until there is no further color change, then subtract the last drop.

For the salt test, the first change (that holds) from yellow to a milky salmon (brick red) is the endpoint. The test has an error rate of +/- one drop or 200 ppm.

According to the manual, high salt concentration above 4 ppm may damage the control center.


SWG was just replaced last year so I don’t need that expense again because the salt level is too high.

Yes I have done the test multiple times and make sure to stop as soon as it holds the milky salmon color. I have even had others watch me to make sure I was counting correctly and stopping at the right point. I was really hoping I was doing it incorrectly but it really is one of the easier test to do.

According to Pool Math I should drain 20% of my pool and refill. I am fine doing this if I need to but this will also affect my CYA which I have been working most the week on to get into level needed.

If I do the drain and refill what is the best way to drain 20% of my pool? I was thinking just rent a sump pump from Home Depot. Is there another way that might be better?

After the refill I would start by testing salt to make sure it is where it is needed and then attic the CYA and anything else that needs attention. My question here is what brand dry stabilizer is best to use? I have been using instant pool conditioner since we bought the house and don’t want to use that anymore.
 
Overshoot your drain estimate of 20% a bit. MA and other chemicals contain salt and can increase levels over time.

If I do the drain and refill what is the best way to drain 20% of my pool
You can rent or buy a pump...no right answer. I bought one this one when it was on sale.


My question here is what brand dry stabilizer is best to use?
I've only needed to add small amounts, so I use one of of these two...you may be able to find the Clorox stuff in-store at Wal-Mart. See what you might find at HD/Lowes. CYA is normally sold as "chlorine stabilizer." The Amazon stuff has delayed shipping for now but usually a good deal via Prime...


 
Overshoot your drain estimate of 20% a bit. MA and other chemicals contain salt and can increase levels over time.

You can rent or buy a pump...no right answer. I bought one this one when it was on sale.



I've only needed to add small amounts, so I use one of of these two...you may be able to find the Clorox stuff in-store at Wal-Mart. See what you might find at HD/Lowes. CYA is normally sold as "chlorine stabilizer." The Amazon stuff has delayed shipping for now but usually a good deal via Prime...


So what maybe 25%?
Found 1/4 hp same brand that I can get by 7-11 am tomorrow so bought that . Will take a little longer to drain but it will work.
I will check HD and other places to see what I can find locally.

As always thanks for your quick replies.
 
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So the 1/4 hp pump I purchased says it pumps 840 gallons every hour at a 25’ discharge. According to my math 11,250 gallons times 23% would be 2597 gallons to drain 23% divided by 840 per hour would be a little over 3 hours which I am 2 hours into. Does that sound about right to anyone that can check me.

Not that it matters if I drain more than needed other than more chemicals will be needed to get my levels back in order.
 

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Picture attached is my readings after the drain and refill. Couldn’t test CYA because it is after midnight so no sunlight. I put 58 ounces of liquid chlorine in for tonight and will do all the test again tomorrow with CYA.

Once I get that I will know exactly how much dry stabilizer, liquid chlorine to hold around 5 and then salt after that.

Anything that I am missing or should be concerned about?
 

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Before you test make sure the pump has been running for a good couple of hours to get a good mix. Not sure what you mean with ''hold around 5" because the target for 60 CYA is 4-9 but you don't really want to be at 5 but rather at the safe spot of 9. Also your CYA should be somewhere 70-80 this time of the year which has its target at 5-10.
 
Before you test make sure the pump has been running for a good couple of hours to get a good mix. Not sure what you mean with ''hold around 5" because the target for 60 CYA is 4-9 but you don't really want to be at 5 but rather at the safe spot of 9. Also your CYA should be somewhere 70-80 this time of the year which has its target at 5-10.


I will have to test the CYA in the morning so that reading of 60 was my last reading before the drain and refill today. The refill did not finish till about 11 pm tonight. I will run a full test in the morning to have better readings. I will post them in the morning. I am leaving the pump running all night before testing again so they should all be more accurate. I probably should have just waited to post anything till then.
 
I will have to test the CYA in the morning so that reading of 60 was my last reading before the drain and refill today. The refill did not finish till about 11 pm tonight. I will run a full test in the morning to have better readings. I will post them in the morning. I am leaving the pump running all night before testing again so they should all be more accurate. I probably should have just waited to post anything till then.
No harm done. I just wonder if you left the water as is and the cell was happy and not complaining about hi salt could there have still been harm to the cell.
 

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No harm done. I just wonder if you left the water as is and the cell was happy and not complaining about hi salt could there have still been harm to the cell.


Not sure on that but I did think about it because it didn’t have any errors or anything and seemed to be working just fine. I just replaced it last year so didn’t want to risk the higher levels the the K-1766 were coming in at.
 
Good job getting it drained. Now you just need to get your Salt and CYA levels adjusted. You CH level came down to just about the minimum level which is a good starting point. Turn off SWG while adding salt to avoid high concentrations from entering the cell.
 
This morning’s readings.

FC - 4.0
CC - .5
PH - 8
TA - 130
CH - 250
CYA - 40 (was in between 30 & 40)
Salt -2600

According to pool math I need to add 2 lbs 13 oz of dry stabilizer to get CYA to 70. Can I add this all at once using the sock method in my skimmer? First time using dry stabilizer and this method.

Going to recalibrate the SWG to be the same as the K-1766 readings. It is still reading 2500 which is only 100 difference, should I worry about recalibrating it?

Should I get my CH up to at least 350 which is the minimum of the recommended level according to TFP.
 
Good job getting it drained. Now you just need to get your Salt and CYA levels adjusted. You CH level came down to just about the minimum level which is a good starting point. Turn off SWG while adding salt to avoid high concentrations from entering the cell.


It was definitely a long afternoon and night getting it done. I way overshot my drain I believe because 23% should have roughly brought the salt down to 3300 lol. All worth it though.

Will be adding salt later today and yes the cell is already set to 0% to prep for the salt addition.
 
According to pool math I need to add 2 lbs 13 oz of dry stabilizer to get CYA to 70. Can I add this all at once using the sock method in my skimmer? First time using dry stabilizer and this method.
I would split that amount into two separate socks (I use nylons). Let them soak for 15-30 minutes and squeeze. Go back several times and repeat.
Should I get my CH up to at least 350 which is the minimum of the recommended level according to TFP.
Keep at at 250 (minimum level). It will continue to rise with top offs. Your higher TA will help to offset lower CH. See this article on CSI. Maintain CSI in the range of 0.0 to -0.30.

t was definitely a long afternoon and night getting it done. I way overshot my drain I believe because 23% should have roughly brought the salt down to 3300 lol. All worth it though.
No worries. Good to get CH down to minimum level.
 
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