Cartridge filters - Hayward CX875-RE CX875REM Swimming Pool Spa Filter by SpiroPure - 4 Filters: $175.56

[nikon5400]

Hello,

Does anyone have any experience with this brand\company? How many seasons would they last (our season is 4 months)?'

They say "Replace every 12-18 months" - does it mean I could use them for 3-4,5 seasons?

Hayward CX875-RE CX875REM Swimming Pool Filter - $43.89 - 4 Filters: $175.56


Thanks

 

[PoolStored]

Those are decent filters and get good reviews.

Spiropure Reviews

 

[Newdude]

You only need to replace them often when you listen to the industry way of doing things. If you aren't dumping all kinds of floccs/clarifiers and/or 6 in 1 potions with floccs/clarifiers in the pool, you can get 10 years out of carts.

 

[Texas Splash]

My carts are going on 10 years. They look a little dingy and beat-up, like most of my t-shirts (ha ha), but filter as designed. I run my filter 24/7/365. With a short season like yours, those carts should last a really long time.

 

[nikon5400]

My carts are going on 10 years. They look a little dingy and beat-up, like most of my t-shirts (ha ha), but filter as designed. I run my filter 24/7/365. With a short season like yours, those carts should last a really long time.

You only need to replace them often when you listen to the industry way of doing things. If you aren't dumping all kinds of floccs/clarifiers and/or 6 in 1 potions with floccs/clarifiers in the pool, you can get 10 years out of carts.

Thanks for the reply.
I have a question - these Haywards are over 15 years old. I use them when I open and once pool passes overnight test replace them with newer set. I clean them and put them back in filter when closing.
This season I removed them within 24 hours of adding CYA, because pressure jumped more than before and for some reason my CYA went through the roof.. (may be someone can explain why)

These old Haywards are much heavier then the newer set. Not sure if that's how they were built or because of all the usage.

Is it worth cleaning them with TSP? I remember many posters on TFP suggested replacing cartridges after a few years of use, but now it seems like old carts are considered good if the bands are intact


P.S. my CYA issue (probably needs a separate post)
I lose CYA during winter. On my tfp test kit black dot was clearly visible, Leslie's saw it as 5.
I had added about 8lb (5+~~3) of BioGaurd Stabilizer expecting it to get to around 40-45, but now I have about 60 as if I added over 11lb (which is impossible, unless there was way more than 5lb in a new sealed bag)
Unfortunately I never measured it with measuring cup.. from now on I will

I've been using liquid chlorine for years and never had CYA over 40-45 (which seem to use less chlorine than 30), so dealing with 60 is going to be a new experience for me
I understand it'll use more test agents DPD 0871 (which I use every day), but what about chlorine?

(I know I should avoid Leslie's, but I don't trust myself with CYA testing, so I get it tested there too and the reading on their new testers have always been about 15-20% higher than mine. Also their CYA reading is consistent across a few stores I visited with the same water sample, unlike their calcium, phosphates (whatever that is). They also say my TDS is at 4000... pool has never been drained, not sure if I need to.

Thanks.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is it worth cleaning them with TSP?

Certainly can't hurt. If not TSP, then some Cascade dishwasher powder.

 

[Texas Splash]

expecting it to get to around 40-45, but now I have about 60

If your pool volume and dosage amount were correct, perhaps because the amount of CYA before the addition, which you may have anticipated being at 10 or below, may have been a bit more. Once below 30, an accurate CYA reading is not very feasible. In the future, probably best to add half of what you think via the sock method, then give it a day or two before re-testing.

I would not worry about any of those additional water tests the pool store provides (i.e. TDS). Not a player in TFP maintained pools and I suspect they just want to sell you some products.

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for the reply.
I have a question - these Haywards are over 15 years old. I use them when I open and once pool passes overnight test replace them with newer set. I clean them and put them back in filter when closing.
This season I removed them within 24 hours of adding CYA, because pressure jumped more than before and for some reason my CYA went through the roof.. (may be someone can explain why)

These old Haywards are much heavier then the newer set. Not sure if that's how they were built or because of all the usage.

Is it worth cleaning them with TSP? I remember many posters on TFP suggested replacing cartridges after a few years of use, but now it seems like old carts are considered good if the bands are intact


P.S. my CYA issue (probably needs a separate post)
I lose CYA during winter. On my tfp test kit black dot was clearly visible, Leslie's saw it as 5.
I had added about 8lb (5+~~3) of BioGaurd Stabilizer expecting it to get to around 40-45, but now I have about 60 as if I added over 11lb (which is impossible, unless there was way more than 5lb in a new sealed bag)
Unfortunately I never measured it with measuring cup.. from now on I will

I've been using liquid chlorine for years and never had CYA over 40-45 (which seem to use less chlorine than 30), so dealing with 60 is going to be a new experience for me
I understand it'll use more test agents DPD 0871 (which I use every day), but what about chlorine?

(I know I should avoid Leslie's, but I don't trust myself with CYA testing, so I get it tested there too and the reading on their new testers have always been about 15-20% higher than mine. Also their CYA reading is consistent across a few stores I visited with the same water sample, unlike their calcium, phosphates (whatever that is). They also say my TDS is at 4000... pool has never been drained, not sure if I need to.

Thanks.

Old cartridges are heavy because they are a). wet or b). still full of debris that can't be seen. Fifteen years on one set is a great life. Cleaning with TSP, Cascade, filter cleaner may help for a while, but a new set is better. Quickly clogging with the addition of CYA indicates they are on their last days. Clean them, put them away, use them while the newer ones are getting a good soaking in a cleaning solution.

Not sure how you lose CYA over the winter unless you are draining the pool for winterizing. It doesn't go away on its own.

 

[nikon5400]

Old cartridges are heavy because they are a). wet or b). still full of debris that can't be seen. Fifteen years on one set is a great life. Cleaning with TSP, Cascade, filter cleaner may help for a while, but a new set is better. Quickly clogging with the addition of CYA indicates they are on their last days. Clean them, put them away, use them while the newer ones are getting a good soaking in a cleaning solution.

Not sure how you lose CYA over the winter unless you are draining the pool for winterizing. It doesn't go away on its own.

CYA has always being going down for me over the winter. I lower the water just below return lines, drain them and add back to 2" below skimmer. I don't know how much water is being replaced, but the deep end of the pool is probably around 8ft

However, I've been battling with what seems to be soil bacteria a few seasons, may be that's what keeps bringing my CYA down.. if CYA is not going down on its own during cold weather.
thanks

 

[1poolman1]

CYA has always being going down for me over the winter. I lower the water just below return lines, drain them and add back to 2" below skimmer. I don't know how much water is being replaced, but the deep end of the pool is probably around 8ft

However, I've been battling with what seems to be soil bacteria a few seasons, may be that's what keeps bringing my CYA down.. if CYA is not going down on its own during cold weather.
thanks

When lowering the water level you are removing a large amount of water with CYA in it to get below the returns. Then you add fresh water back, diluting what is left. That's the nature of winterizing.

 

[nikon5400]

If your pool volume and dosage amount were correct, perhaps because the amount of CYA before the addition, which you may have anticipated being at 10 or below, may have been a bit more. Once below 30, an accurate CYA reading is not very feasible. In the future, probably best to add half of what you think via the sock method, then give it a day or two before re-testing.

I would not worry about any of those additional water tests the pool store provides (i.e. TDS). Not a player in TFP maintained pools and I suspect they just want to sell you some products.

Because Leslie's reading is always higher then mine, I assumed it's 5 or less
In the past I always did it the way you recommend, only waited 4-5 days for CYA to register. I thought I could take the shortcut this time

Any idea on chlorine usage with CYA 60 vs 40?

Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

Then you add fresh water back, diluting what is left. That's the nature of winterizing.

Much of the northeast gets about 3 ft of off season precipitation also, and that helps dilute those with permeable covers even further.

While the monthly CYA degradation of 3 to 5 ppm is not noticeable during the season, it is definitely noticeable for those of us who walk away from the pool for 5 to 8 months. This winter was particularly dry and it was the first year (of 10) that I opened with any CYA, closing with 70.

 

[Texas Splash]

Any idea on chlorine usage with CYA 60 vs 40?

While you have to initially increase to a higher FC range for a CYA of 60 versus 40, the daily consumption "should" remain the same - somewhere between 2-4 ppm. Much depends on your local area, the intensity of the sun, amount of shade, organics in the water, etc. If in doubt with your CYA reading, it's best to err on the side of caution and go with the higher CYA to determine your FC range. You don't want to get algae if you can help it.

 

[nikon5400]

When lowering the water level you are removing a large amount of water with CYA in it to get below the returns. Then you add fresh water back, diluting what is left. That's the nature of winterizing.

Right. But if I drained half of the pool and added fresh water back, I'd expect CYA to be half of what it was. Am I correct?
Bringing water below return is only about 10-12 inches, I don't know how much water that is, but probably less than 20% considering the deep end is about 8ft

 

[1poolman1]

Right. But if I drained half of the pool and added fresh water back, I'd expect CYA to be half of what it was. Am I correct?
Bringing water below return is only about 10-12 inches, I don't know how much water that is, but probably less than 20% considering the deep end is about 8ft

What are the dimensions of the pool? Draining a pool to half its depth is not the same as draining half the water unless the bottom is flat. If you drain 20% then add that back as fresh, there should be about a 40% less CYA reading. You've dumped 20% then diluted the rest by 20%.

 

[nikon5400]

Much of the northeast gets about 3 ft of off season precipitation also, and that helps dilute those with permeable covers even further.

While the monthly CYA degradation of 3 to 5 ppm is not noticeable during the season, it is definitely noticeable for those of us who walk away from the pool for 5 to 8 months. This winter was particularly dry and it was the first year (of 10) that I opened with any CYA, closing with 70.

I have a new solid cover. My pool has never been this clean during opening as it has been with this new cover. Water level was 2in below skimmer, as I left it when closed. With an old cover I use to lower it 4in below the skimmer as the water was getting in the pool through lots of little holes, don't know how to keep crows and foxes off my cover

 

[Newdude]

Bringing water below return is only about 10-12 inches, I don't know how much water that is, but probably less than 20% considering the deep end is about 8ft

The top is way easier to calculate than the bottom. Length X width X depth × 7.481 gallons per cu ft is how many gallons you exchanged, if you drained and filled separately. If doing a same time exchange then mixing comes into play and reduces the efficiency.

Subsequent drains lose efficiency from remodeling 'good' water with the 'bad'.


Also, with nothing to lose with the old carts, soak them in TSP to remove any oils and then soak them for a full 24 hours in 50:1 muriatic acid. My PB had me give them a MA bath every fall and it worked amazing for me. They came out as good as new everytime. Other people's water may have things in it that mine didn't, such as a higher metal content which will fuse the carts solid, so I don't reccomend this unless an OP is throwing them away.

 

[nikon5400]

The top is way easier to calculate than the bottom. Length X width X depth × 7.481 gallons per cu ft is how many gallons you exchanged, if you drained and filled separately. If doing a same time exchange then mixing comes into play and reduces the efficiency.

Subsequent drains lose efficiency from remodeling 'good' water with the 'bad'.


Also, with nothing to lose with the old carts, soak them in TSP to remove any oils and then soak them for a full 24 hours in 50:1 muriatic acid. My PB had me give them a MA bath every fall and it worked amazing for me. They came out as good as new everytime. Other people's water may have things in it that mine didn't, such as a higher metal content which will fuse the carts solid, so I don't reccomend this unless an OP is throwing them away.

The shallow end of the pool is about 37", deep end is about 6ft. I replace about 10-12 inches when I close\open. I don't know what percentage that is, but CYA level according to the tube (and Leslie's) is (almost) gone.

When you mention 50:1, are you referring to 50 gallons of water for 1 gallon of muriatic acid? 31% or 15%?

While you have to initially increase to a higher FC range for a CYA of 60 versus 40, the daily consumption "should" remain the same - somewhere between 2-4 ppm. Much depends on your local area, the intensity of the sun, amount of shade, organics in the water, etc. If in doubt with your CYA reading, it's best to err on the side of caution and go with the higher CYA to determine your FC range. You don't want to get algae if you can help it.

What about muriatic acid? Will the consumption be about the same as with chlorine for CYA 40?

I kept PH at 7.2 when I thought my CYA should be around 40. but after bringing FC to 20, it jumped to about 7.8

thanks.

 

[proavia]

The only things you can assume from Leslies is that their test results are inconsistent (at best), they charge a premium price (mostly for stuff you don't need for your pool) and that (at this point) you know WAY more than they do about your pool, water testing and your pool's upkeep.

Stay away and trust your own testing. No one will care as much about your pool as you do.
Check our the extended testing instructions for CYA (and other tests) here:

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

Click the picture to go to the extended instructions for each test.

 

[Newdude]

The shallow end of the pool is about 37", deep end is about 6ft.

What is the length and width

When you mention 50:1, are you referring to 50 gallons of water for 1 gallon of muriatic acid? 31% or 15%?

Yes. 50 gallons water to 1 gallon 31% MA. (Or equal maths)