Pool Pump Motor Can't Be Shipped to Me Because It's Not California Compliant

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MrLeadFoot

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2019
201
El Dorado Hills, CA
My AO Smith/Century QC1102/SC1102 single speed pump died, so I need something in a hurry. It just HAD to die right when the weather starts to warm up. Why couldn't it have died mid-winter, so I have more time?

Anyway, Amazon won't ship a replacement to me, nor will some other vendors, due to it not being California Compliant. I am being told California now requires pumps to be variable, and the Century EVQ165 is my direct replacement. Anyone hear of this California Compliant thing? That said, I noticed Leslie's has my single speed pump on their site, and their site does not say they won't ship to me, although I did not complete the checkout process because they are 40% higher than anyone else, as usual. Is this California Compliant issue really a thing? If so, would you just use the direct variable replacement, or would you spend to upgrade the whole pump housing and whatever else to get something better? Not sure what to do. I was expecting to spend $200-$250 for my original model, but now looks like I might have to cough $599!

Thoughts on the California Compliant thing, opinions on the direct variable replacement pump, or any other suggestions most welcome!
 
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MrLeadFoot said:
I was expecting to spend $200-$250 for my original model, but now looks like I might have to cough $599!
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So a difference of around $375?

Your old pump draws around 1200 watts; a variable-speed pump will probably draw an average of no more than 200 watts. So every hour that the new pump runs, you save a kilowatt-hour.

PG&E charges me $0.37 per kilowatt-hour. So if your rates are the same, you'll make up that $375 by the time you've run the new pump for 1000 hours. And then you'll continue to save a dollar every three hours for the lifetime of the pump.

Oh, and your electric utility might also give you a cash rebate for switching from a single-speed to a variable-speed pump.

This is a case where even if you could get around the law, you wouldn't want to.
 
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MrLeadFoot said:
I have a suction side vaccum on a dedicated line. Any issues going to something like this pump?
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A variable-speed pump can be run at any speed up to and including the same high speed as your old single-speed pump. So if your suction-side cleaner actually needs 3450 RPM, the new pump can provide that, same as the old one.
 
MrLeadFoot said:
My AO Smith/Century QC1102/SC1102 single speed pump died, so I need something in a hurry. It just HAD to die right when the weather starts to warm up. Why couldn't it have died mid-winter, so I have more time?

Anyway, Amazon won't ship a replacement to me, nor will some other vendors, due to it not being California Compliant. I am being told California now requires pumps to be variable, and the Century EVQ165 is my direct replacement. Anyone hear of this California Compliant thing? That said, I noticed Leslie's has my single speed pump on their site, and their site does not say they won't ship to me, although I did not complete the checkout process because they are 40% higher than anyone else, as usual. Is this California Compliant issue really a thing? If so, would you just use the direct variable replacement, or would you spend to upgrade the whole pump housing and whatever else to get something better? Not sure what to do. I was expecting to spend $200-$250 for my original model, but now looks like I might have to cough $599!

Thoughts on the California Compliant thing, opinions on the direct variable replacement pump, or any other suggestions most welcome!
Click to expand...
Being in El Dorado Hills, you probably have PG&E electric. You ABSOLUTELY want a VSP. It will pay for itself quickly if set up correctly (don't ever use full speed). The regulations in California are strict, and finally being enforced on re-sellers, but the fact is that motor is not legal in the entire country due to DOE regulations. The California requirement goes back many years and allowed for existing stock to be sold They can't even be made here anymore. That motor is not the only pool item that won't be shipped to CA. The good thing about that EVQ165 is that it can be used with your existing timeclock.
Which pump do you have?
 
MrLeadFoot said:
Sta-Rite P4E6E-187L is what's stamped on the metal plate on the housing. Don't know if I need to run full speed at all with my suction side vacuum. I suspect not because I never have the valve turned fully to that port with the single-speed pump.
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StaRite Max-E-Glass 2 (now PRO). I've installed many of the earlier version V-Green to those pumps. It makes a good combo. Be sure to get a sealplate O ring, diffuser O ring, 201 shaft seal, or a Max-E-Pro Go kit that has it all. Programming is a bit strange/limited, but doable.
 

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1poolman1 said:
StaRite Max-E-Glass 2 (now PRO). I've installed many of the earlier version V-Green to those pumps. It makes a good combo. Be sure to get a sealplate O ring, diffuser O ring, 201 shaft seal, or a Max-E-Pro Go kit that has it all. Programming is a bit strange/limited, but doable.
Click to expand...
I ordered the pump motor and and GoKit. Thank you for sharing your experience, as that sure makes me feel more comfortable that I did the right thing.
 
Newdude said:
3 HP Calimar VS pump $519

larger pumps move more water at the same RPM, requiring less RPM, saving further energy.
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I did consider that aspect of it, but was already getting into more than I was comfortable with, mechanically, and didn't want to change out the whole pump. I figured if it's going to be a power savings already, and quieter than the single-speed motors I've gotten used to over 28 yearrs, I'd be better off, even if I didn't up the HP. I ended up getting the motor for $110 cheaper than what I originally posted, so that helped make the decision easier, too.
 
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Got it installed today, and I am kicking myself for not having done this sooner. I'm trying to console myself with the fact that variable motors were so much more expensive a few years back, but then again, how much more have I been paying in electricity all this time I've been running that single speed motor? Can't wait to see what kind of dent this variable pump will make in my $800 PG&E bill, and how much better my pool health will be by being able to keep water moving longer. (Can't imagine what the bill would be with a pool heater, thankfully I don't have one!)

Aside from being much quieter than the single speed, I have noticed that my cleaner actually works better, not because the motor is any stronger, but due to the fact that when the motor changes speeds the cleaner moves into patterns and zones it never did before, resulting in more complete coverage!

While I initially thought I'd have to live with the 16 built-in schedules, I have an Intermatic timer and realized that if I get creative with multiple on and off times, I exponentially increase schedule options! Obviously a lot of thought went into the design of this motor. For now, I'm leaving it on the default A-1 schedule, as think that's what I need to get my pool back on track after sitting with no motor for 10 days!

Anyone care to share which schedule they typically run?
 
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MrLeadFoot said:
Anyone care to share which schedule they typically run?
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I have 2 times. Summertime and wintertime. Summertime is 1200RPMs unless I'm vacuuming. Wintertime the pump is sleeping in the finished basement.

Add whatever other times/speed you need such as XXXX Rpms to run the heater for 5 hours. Or 2500 RPMs to run the waterfall for 5 minutes so the water doesn't get stagnant. Then let it run low and slow the rest of the time. Put that energy efficient pump to good use. Mine runs 24 hours for the cost of just over 2 hours at full throttle.
 
There's an automation interface available for the Calimar pump that allows you to connect automation. This would provide a wide range of scheduling options. One forum member used a simple 4 channel Sonoff relay/switch controlled by an app. The Sonoff also works with Alexa/Google Home/Smart Things.

Sonoff Pool Automation Help Needed

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Newdude said:
I have 2 times. Summertime and wintertime. Summertime is 1200RPMs unless I'm vacuuming. Wintertime the pump is sleeping in the finished basement.

Add whatever other times/speed you need such as XXXX Rpms to run the heater for 5 hours. Or 2500 RPMs to run the waterfall for 5 minutes so the water doesn't get stagnant. Then let it run low and slow the rest of the time. Put that energy efficient pump to good use. Mine runs 24 hours for the cost of just over 2 hours at full throttle.
Click to expand...
I was wondering why there were pre-set programs to run 24 hours. I thought that was nuts to do. How does one go about figuring out how many rpms to run for how long?
 
MrLeadFoot said:
How does one go about figuring out how many rpms to run for how long?
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Each function you are trying to achieve needs a RPM/speed to achieve it. Start with skimming. Start low and raise RPMs by 100 until the weir doors are flapping away every 10 to 15 seconds. Do the same until the SWG / Heater / features / etc all work. Add 100RPMs to any speed to account for the filter getting dirty with a slight flow decrease, and those are your needed speeds. Then you run those speeds for the duration needed to perform the functions. The highest speed needed at the time covers anything lower by default. Run as slow as is actually needed for the day.
 
Newdude said:
Each function you are trying to achieve needs a RPM/speed to achieve it. Start with skimming. Start low and raise RPMs by 100 until the weir doors are flapping away every 10 to 15 seconds. Do the same until the SWG / Heater / features / etc all work. Add 100RPMs to any speed to account for the filter getting dirty with a slight flow decrease, and those are your needed speeds. Then you run those speeds for the duration needed to perform the functions. The highest speed needed at the time covers anything lower by default. Run as slow as is actually needed for the day.
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Thank you, Newdude, for those details. My pump has canned program schedules, so it doesn't appear that I can program it to the level you describe. But, I will experiment with the canned programs to see if what might work. Just to clarify the proper skimming "velocity" (for lack of a better term) :

Are you saying the weir doors don't necessarily need to be open continuously when the pump is running?
 
MrLeadFoot said:
Are you saying the weir doors don't necessarily need to be open continuously when the pump is running?
Click to expand...

Weir doors should never be fully open.

The weir door should just be pushed back a bit as the water flows over the lip of the door into the skimmer. Debris should be following that water flow over the lip into the skimmer and the closed weir door keeps the debris from returning to the pool.

Skimmers - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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