Ok, you made me bite on this one.
Hardness of the water doesn't matter for how you chlorinate...two separate animals.
Animal "A": hard water just means that it has a high level of Calcium. Austin’s water has 184 Parts Per Million of hardness, San Antonio water hardness is 357 PPM and Midland’s water is an extremely hard 500 PPM. Can you be more specific as to where you are located? To continue, as your water evaporates, and you replace with more water that is high in calcium, the levels of calcium (CH) in the pool will rise. It will rise faster with 500ppm Fill water than 185ppm.
There are really only two ways to deal with CH levels that are too high (>~800-100ppm)...1) Exchange water that has a high level of calcium that has been created over a period of time (say you get to 1000ppm), with lower levels of calcium water, even at 500ppm, such as your source level. 2) Convert your source water to a water softener as
@mknauss indicated. Water softeners remove CH from your filll water.
Animal "B": Chlorination. It doesn't matter if you use Liquid Chlorine or a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG or SWCG). You can also use Cal-Hypo, but that adds Calcium, which is already a problem, or Pucks, which add CYA. When you increase CYA, you need to keep higher levels of Free Chlorine (FC) in the pools to sanitize. Most that use pucks end up here because they add so much CYA that they cannot keep enough FC in their pools to sanitize and end up with algae (a little reading Link -->
FC/CYA Levels
So we are back to either using Liquid Chlorine (LC) or SWCG to keep FC at a high enough level to sanitize the pool. I've done both. LC requires buying and lugging LC (Bleach), testing daily and adding LC daily to the pool. SWCG requires testing daily (or every couple days) and adjusting your SWCG output weekly/bi-weekly or so, depending on the season.
Net, net, I've been in your shoes. Get a SWCG and enjoy the pool!