Quick Question on following the process here

[ss32000]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking here for the last week or as I finally about got my pool back to where I think it needs to be. I've been really intrigued by the SLAM method and I think I've probably had more algae issues than I realized based upon what my tests were actually showing me. I guess I have two questions here and forgive me if these are dumb questions.

1. I was explaining to my wife about this forum and how the concept is to use liquid bleach to raise up the chlorine level. Her first ask was won't this eat up our bathing suits? My gut reaction is obviously not since I would imagine I would have seen it in the forums and I tried explaining that most shock and bleach actually have the same ingredients.

2. Once you complete your SLAM, what are you using to keep FC in there in balance with your CYA? I have a Nature Fusion Chlorinator that uses trichlor 3 inch tabs. Would I continue to use this or is it just best to leave alone/off now?

3. I've got a vinyl safety auto cover over my pool. Do I need to worry about leaving the pool open a certain amount of time or just wait until I get a couple tests to see if that matters in any way?

I'm happy to be here and learning. My hope is to make this process slightly easier than it's been for the last couple weeks while I had major balance issues.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! About your questions:
1 - No. The chlorine-to-stabilizer (CYA) ratio is safe not only for swim attire but also swimmers skin. As long as you know your "accurate" CYA and do not exceed the appropriate SLAM FC level noted on the FC/CYA Levels, it's fine.
2 - Typically liquid chlorine each day or two. Chlorine tablets are stabilized and can very quickly increase the CYA level too high. Pool owners need to be mindful of that,.
3 - It's good to let the sun hit the water for a short time every day or two. It helps to oxidize combined chlorine in the water.

Be sure to visit out Pool Care Basics for more info.

 

[ss32000]

My biggest problem has been getting an accurate CYA right now. It's coming up very low, which doesn't make sense since the trichlor is stabilized. Do you think I should take a sample to the pool store to get a reading to just double check something isn't off with my testing kit? That's been my one drawback to truly starting SLAM.

 

[Texas Splash]

Do you think I should take a sample to the pool store to get a reading

No. Pool store testing is often incorrect, especially for the CYA test. Which test kit are you using?

 

[ss32000]

Taylor K2005. I need to get the stuff for the overnight chlorine test. Every time I take a sample and then use the agent to fill it up, the black dot never disappears.

 

[Bperry]

and I tried explaining that most shock and bleach actually have the same ingredients.

Just to make it super clear, they not only have the same ingredients, they are identical. Bleach is liquid chlorine. Some companies like Clorox add some other stuff to their bleach like fabric softeners, and flowery scents in addition to the chlorine. But you don’t want those in your pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

Every time I take a sample and then use the agent to fill it up, the black dot never disappears.

Then it sounds as though your CYA level is low, at least below 30 ppm. But I'll include a some items below to try and help you.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After soaking for about 20-30 minutes, squeeze the sock often to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[ss32000]

So I'm in the process of converting over to TFP ranges, but one thing I've been noticing is that my PH seems to consistently drop each day. A week ago I was at 7.6, then 7.4, then 7.2. Even with adding Soda Ash I'm seeing the PH still stuck at 7.2 the next day. I'm going to look to start using Borax, but any thoughts on a larger issue if the PH can't hold at the recommended levels. My TA is 110, which I want to drop, but I'd like to get my PH back up before I bring it down with the Muriatic Acid. My CYA is 30.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
The only way a pH drops in pool water is by adding acid or an acidic product. Stop adding that product, and the pH will stabilize, or likely rise in your case with a high TA.

What are you adding to your pool?

 

[ss32000]

It was Soda Ash from Leslie's. I've got Borax coming tomorrow.

 

[mknauss]

Soda Ash raises pH and TA, TA alot.

If your pH is dropping, you are adding acid or something acidic.

 

[Kellyp]

If your still using the trichlor tabs you mentioned in your opening post, those would lower your PH.

 

[gingrbredman]

Welcome to TFP!

One thing to do is to update your signature to include all the details of your pool equipment, this will help others quickly assess what you have and the best course of action. Include your test kit as well. Sounds like you do not have the entire kit needed for all the tests , but TFTestkits.net has all the supplies you would need.

Also update your location. Illinois is a big state, so depending on what part, would depend on things like your water source, temps, etc., so that will also help other users quickly address any concerns. Take a look at @Texas Splash and @mknauss signature and location for good examples.

Do you think I should take a sample to the pool store

With the proper test kit and supplies, you will never have to go into a pool store again, and this is the first step towards a Trouble Free Pool. Even if you struggle with the tests at first, there are so many around here to help you through it and understand it in the beginning.

My TA is 110, which I want to drop

I do understand wanting to lower the TA, but 110 is far from egregious, and the last result to focus in on right now. Once you get chlorine, PH, and CYA under control, then, and if you want to, you can address the TA. Around me, my fill water has high TA and constantly have my TA around 100 - 120. That is kind of where the pool seems happy when everything else is within range. I could try and get the TA low, but my PH seems stable, and everything else in check, so my TA stays at that range and is perfectly fine.

As mentioned, stop adding anything else except liquid chlorine for sanitization. A bouncing PH indicates acid is somewhere being introduced, and regular old 10-12% chlorine will not do that.

I would also hold off adding any CYA yet until you know if you need to SLAM or not. Higher CYA will require higher chlorine levels for the SLAM, so if you are "mostly sure" the CYA is 30, leave it there until after the SLAM. The links above are great resources for that test.

 

[SJPoe]

Every time I take a sample and then use the agent to fill it up, the black dot never disappears.

I forget who suggested this method, but it finally 'clicked' for me to get (more) consistent CYA measurements.

Don't 'fill and look' at the same time. Don't stare at the dot - your brain will fill in the dot even if its not there.
Fill the viewing tube to 100, hold it at waist level, and glance at it. If you see the dot in the first second or so, fill it to 90 and glance...then 80, 70, 60 and so on.

Once you have a number. Empty the liquid back into the bottle, and repeat the test - starting at the mark two higher than you think (so if you got 60, start at 80). You should get the same result.
If the result is between numbers, like, 70 is almost gone, but 60 is completely gone, err on the side of 70....

Now I generally only test CYA once a week...or after a really heavy rain (we added almost 3 inches of water to our pool this last week - that's close to 5% by volume !!).

 

[ss32000]

Thank you for that. Doing the test this way really helped me out. Things are really starting to look better in the water for me.

 

[randytsuch]

You can also buy a sample of cya 50 ppm solution
You would use this instead of pool water, and then run the test knowing its 50 ppm.

Randy

 

[ss32000]

I do have one question on what I should expect from a stability perspective. I've completely stopped and with the trichlor tabs and been with nothing but liquid chlorine (12.5%) for the last week or so. My water is starting to look great. Last night I could actually see end to end underwater. It wasn't 100% crystal clear but a week or so ago the visibility was maybe half of that at best. My question revolves around at maintenance level, how much chlorine are you adding on a daily basis or should I expect to add? Every morning I'm finding that my Free Chlorine is very low, but my combined chlorine is always 0. I'm adding enough chlorine to bring it back up to 4 PPM, which for my pool is about 72oz. If I test later in the day I might need to add more. My PH is typically 7.4 to 7.6, Alkalinity is 110 and my CYA is 30. I have not done the complete SLAM yet as my OCLT kit just arrived. For people who have come out of SLAM, are you having to add that much chlorine on a daily basis to the point that it's almost a gallon (morning and night)?

I'm trying to just project costs for a whole summer to see where I'm at. My hunch is that if I were to start a SLAM it might not be that bad since my water is looking pretty clear right now and everything else is in balance. Menards has the 11% rebate going on and I was able to get a bunch of 12.5% for $3.55/gallon.

 

[Bperry]

I do have one question on what I should expect from a stability perspective. I've completely stopped and with the trichlor tabs and been with nothing but liquid chlorine (12.5%) for the last week or so. My water is starting to look great. Last night I could actually see end to end underwater. It wasn't 100% crystal clear but a week or so ago the visibility was maybe half of that at best. My question revolves around at maintenance level, how much chlorine are you adding on a daily basis or should I expect to add? Every morning I'm finding that my Free Chlorine is very low, but my combined chlorine is always 0. I'm adding enough chlorine to bring it back up to 4 PPM, which for my pool is about 72oz. If I test later in the day I might need to add more. My PH is typically 7.4 to 7.6, Alkalinity is 110 and my CYA is 30. I have not done the complete SLAM yet as my OCLT kit just arrived. For people who have come out of SLAM, are you having to add that much chlorine on a daily basis to the point that it's almost a gallon (morning and night)?

I'm trying to just project costs for a whole summer to see where I'm at. My hunch is that if I were to start a SLAM it might not be that bad since my water is looking pretty clear right now and everything else is in balance. Menards has the 11% rebate going on and I was able to get a bunch of 12.5% for $3.55/gallon.

Chlorine is one of those items that is not “stable” and so it needs to be replaced every single day. Most healthy pools consume 2-4ppm per day so you need to replace that amount each day.

 

[gingrbredman]

Every morning I'm finding that my Free Chlorine is very low,

My guess is you will be on the way to a SLAM if your FC drops that much overnight. Your OCLT will confirm this, but not a bad idea to begin stocking up on that chlorine.

are you having to add that much chlorine on a daily basis to the point that it's almost a gallon (morning and night)?

1 gallon of 12.5 LC in your pool should add 9.5 FC. If you are adding two gallons per day, then something in the water is burning through it. In Illinois, full sun, this time of year, you may burn through 4ppm of FC a day, so if you are burning about 15 or so, not from the sun, something is in there and a SLAM is necessary to take it out.

CYA of 30 is low, even for our area, but would wait until after the SLAM to raise it. Arizona, Florida, Texas, you want to be around 70, we can get by with 50 or so, but 30 not so much.

 

[mgtfp]

1. I was explaining to my wife about this forum and how the concept is to use liquid bleach to raise up the chlorine level. Her first ask was won't this eat up our bathing suits? My gut reaction is obviously not since I would imagine I would have seen it in the forums and I tried explaining that most shock and bleach actually have the same ingredients.

Chlorine is chlorine, no matter how it's been added to the water. But depending on the product, you add other things with it.

Trichlor tabs are basically chlorinated CYA, so they intrinsically contain CYA that gets added with the chlorine, which will eventually require higher and higher FC levels according to the FC/CYA Levels until it becomes unmanageable.

Cal-Hypo contains calcium to bring the chlorine into a solid form. Therefore calcium gets added together with the chlorine, which eventually can lead to scaling.

Bleach - aka liquid chlorine - contains sodium to bring the chlorine into a liquid form. It also contains some sodium hydroxide as a byproduct from the manufacturing process and is also required to adjust the pH of the end product so it stays stable. The end products in water are - once the chlorine has been used - sodium ions and chloride - aka salt.

But the chlorine in all of these products is just chlorine once it's in the water. And all of these products will bleach your clothes if you put them straight from the bottle / bag / tub onto your clothes.

Once dissolved in water at TFP recommended levels, none of them will bleach your bathing suits. Whether it degrades bathing suits is a question of the active chlorine concentration in water, not how the chlorine has been added. When FC is balanced properly with CYA following the FC/CYA Levels, the active chlorine concentration will be high enough to kill bacteria and algae, but low enough so you will not even notice that there is chlorine in the water.