Always meant to ask this....is there any way to determine what a pH reading is that's obviously above 8 (using Taylor K-2006)?

[anthonypool89]

If it's darker than the purple color at the 8.0 reading...it'd be nice to know, for the sake of calculating SI, just how far above 8 it really is. Today, for the first time in months (since I couldn't get at the pool water most of the winter), I finally got around to seeing what my readings are. First, my pH was down to 7.3 with an SI of -0.86 (yikes!! so hoping no etching took place over the past several months). Then, I added pH increaser and must have overcompensated since now I'm up to 0.46, which is not too bad but surely in the scaling zone, THEN added some pH decreaser but it didn't seem to bring it down below the 8+ color, so now added a bit more decreaser. I'd like to see that it's around 8 which wil take me to -0.04. The reason I ask about the plus-8 measurement is that, if I'd know I'm at 8.2, for instance, the overall SI is 0.16, but once you get up to 8.4 the SI comes up to 0.36, which is still ok, but I like to stay as close to 0 as possible. I admit to trying to "micro manage" all this at times, but things really got out of whack with the slowly melting glacier that was on top of the pool cover for the better part of the winter. Otherwise, I check it at least once a month if the water doesn't freeze. I don't recall ever seeing a reading of 7.3, at least not in recent years.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I thought you were going to drain and refill to go to Chlorine??

 

[anthonypool89]

I thought you were going to drain and refill to go to Chlorine??

Nope. I'm encouraged by how the last half of the '20 season went and so plan to continue with the Baqua / weekly Line Clean maintenance idea. If problems arise again this season, then I'll revisit the idea of converting.

Anyway, now I over-shot again and am back down to -0.34 so will add more increaser...having FUN (I think?)

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Awwww gwon'!! Admit it Anthony, you're never going to change.

 

[anthonypool89]

you're never going to change.

 

[JamesW]

Anyway, now I over-shot again and am back down to -0.34 so will add more increaser...having FUN (I think?)

You can get a K-2006 that includes an acid demand test.

Most people don't need it but it seems like you like to make things more difficult than necessary.

 

[newdude]

So I don’t think there is a way to tell with your current setup and you would need an electronic meter. I had the exact opposite time with the inherited pool we got from moving. It took 4 tries of dosing to bring it up to a readable range. I kept dosing with a starting point of 6.8 having no idea that it was really a 5 (?). So I’d go back to check and it was still at the lowest color.

When I moved onto the CYA and it was a 360 it made a little more sense from all the acid. The FC was a 30 and I started thinking the previous owners performed a super shock to get through the last 2 weeks.

 

[anthonypool89]

After 2 additions of both increaser and decreaser, I'm finally at 7.9 on the pH with SI of -0.08. I'm good with that. Most amazing was the relative clarity of the water instead of the usual swamp-green. Wonder if it has to do with the cover having been enclosed in ice and snow for so long? The usual number of worms and other debris couldn't make their way in there. Undoubtedly the huge amount of water that entered the pool from all the ice/snow melt accounted for the unusually low pH.

 

[anthonypool89]

it seems like you like to make things more difficult than necessary.

More interesting and challenging that way.

 

[mgtfp]

As Newdude said, a pH-meter would do the trick. But it's not really necessary, as you shouldn't stay above 8 anyway. Even if the CSI was still OK, such high pH is an invitation for metal stains.

And then you just test and dose iteratively until you are in target range. And make sure to run the pump long enough before testing after adding chemicals, otherwise you might think that you over- or underdosed just because the water didn't have enough time to mix.

 

[newdude]

Wonder if it has to do with the cover having been enclosed in ice and snow for so long?

The temps cooperated this year for us in the northeast. It was a nice slow rise instead of the roller coaster hot/cold like last year. All those cold blasts kept convincing people (myself included with a swamp) to wait a few weeks. And then another few weeks.

 

[anthonypool89]

..and making for lovely spring flowers and shrubs as well with the slow-release moisture over the past few months.

 

[anthonypool89]

And make sure to run the pump long enough before testing after adding chemicals

I always do - if the pump is running - but I also add chemicals in the off-season when the pool is completely closed. I just pull the cover partway back and use a kayak paddle to stir the water around real well (I knew there was a reason I bought an inflatable kayak - hardly ever use it otherwise, sad to say). Then, after adding either a pH increaser or decreaser, I agitate the water around real good for a few minutes. Surely not a substitute for circulating water with the pump, but my builder - following renovation 7 years ago - suggested I start doing this just to keep a check on the overall balance. Been doing it ever since.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Wait a minute ..... the end of last season you'd make a chemical soup out of that water, if I recall? Did you secretly drain and refill and just can't bear to part with all those Bacqu chemicals you so love?
Fess up now.....

 

[jseyfert3]

You can’t determine what it is with a K-2006. However you can do the acid demand test when it’s above 8 and that will tell you the amount of acid needed to lower to a specific pH.

Are you using PoolMath to calculate additions? With PoolMath I’ve taken my spa from 8.3 to 7.0 and ended up within ±0.1 pH of my target every time. My pool likewise ends up very close to my target every time, though I’m not swinging the pH nearly as much as I do in my spa.

In any case if you are repeatedly over or under shooting stop adding so much in one go. Better to add less than you need and add a second time than start a yo-yo and add even more times.

Also, come on. You SWORE last year you’d switch to chlorine. Do it! Let the pool be easy this year and find yourself a hobby to challenge yourself instead of letting the pool do that.

 

[anthonypool89]

Fess up now.....

Nope...same water! From 8/8 till close in early October was probably the most successful (partial) season I've had in years - so I'm encouraged to pick up where I left off - same regimen with adding 1/2 lb. of Line Clean every 7-8 days, followed by 2 qts. of Oxidizer 4 days after every Line Clean addition, so that basically every 4th day one of the two products is added. The Oxidizer (as usual) is followed up by 3 (instead of 5) parts of CDX. That's it. Got rid of the Aqua Finesse tablets, and only occasional algaecide and santizer as needed. I'm curious to see what happens with continuing this way. IF it all turns into a disaster or winds up with the frequent filter cleanings / pressure increase that I had between 6/10 to 8/8 (I know that cause I keep spreadsheets on everything I do), then a change is needed. My big mistake last year - on 7/13 - was twofold - one was doing the recommended algae treatment as per baquacil instructions for stubborn situations, and the second was immediately after the algaecide also doing the recommeded Line Clean treatment on the same day - which called for unbelievably high amounts of CDX. All that together created some sort of intolerable mix that, while taking care of the filter pressure situation for several weeks, also resulted in a pool that was nearly impossible to swim in due to the fumes and strong odors. Then, there were 4 more filter pressure issues between 7/28 and 8/8. After 8/8, it was a completely different swimming season. I'm intrigued...will see what happens. I bought enough Oxidizer (about 24 quarts) in the event that I run into the same filter pressure problems - I don't think it'll happen but if it does you can be sure I'll be here to report it. If the Line Clean regimen I've come up with doesn't work, then no choice but to go back to chlorine. No other products out there to try, or at least none that I'm aware of.

 

[anthonypool89]

Are you using PoolMath to calculate additions?

No....just using the color readings on the Taylor test tube.

Also, come on. You SWORE last year you’d switch to chlorine.

Not yet....let's see how this season plays out. I'm (cautiously) optimistic

find yourself a hobby to challenge yourself instead of letting the pool do that.

You DO have a good point...already have enough to do here around the property!! We'll see....

 

[newdude]

Not yet....let's see how this season plays out. I'm (cautiously) optimistic

One of us will survive this season. Just saying.

 

[anthonypool89]

One of us will survive this season. Just saying.

Sort of ironic you should use that picture!.....I am a survivor .....(google "Viking Sky 3/23/19" for a rather interesting tale....) RIP to all those lost in the Titanic disaster. I've always had a great interest in that - have several books and, of course, the movie.

 

[jseyfert3]

same regimen with adding 1/2 lb. of Line Clean every 7-8 days, followed by 2 qts. of Oxidizer 4 days after every Line Clean addition, so that basically every 4th day one of the two products is added. The Oxidizer (as usual) is followed up by 3 (instead of 5) parts of CDX. That's it. Got rid of the Aqua Finesse tablets, and only occasional algaecide and santizer as needed.

That's it? Come on. You know what I add? Liquid chlorine every other day to every third day, and acid once or twice a week. And CYA at the start of the season to make up for breakdown and dilution. That's it. Three items. Only two added regularly. Never any algaecide or anything else.

Better yet? I'm planning to upgrade to a SWCG this year (currently starting the ball rolling on permits and research) which means the only thing will be CYA at the start of the season and acid occasionally throughout the season.