Town inspector didn’t pass pool heater final inspection.

[ForceEdge]

So this is on a Raypak avia 404 natural gas unit.

Pressure test came back and everything was good. Once hooked up he came back for final inspection and wasn’t sure if my unit needed a pressure relief valve and didn’t see one on there. So he didn’t pass it and said he’s going to reach out to the plumber.

Any idea if this is needed, where I would install it if so and what would be steps needed to pass this?

I attached pictures of setup below.

Thanks so much

 

[JoyfulNoise]

TPV’s are usually installed on the heater manifold. Some jurisdictions require any “water boiler” to have them. Some do not. Some specifically exclude pool equipment. It’s an easy installation and I believe Raypak can supply the parts for it for their heater. There should be a port on the header for it.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Page 21 of the installation manual -

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Part number 018936F … has to be ordered from Raypak.

 

[ForceEdge]

not sure is he wanted PRV on gas or pool water plumbing.

I emailed an asked.

 

[ForceEdge]

Part number 018936F … has to be ordered from Raypak.

That part is $500 bucks. Jeeezz

Anyway I can Install my own?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

not sure is he wanted PRV on gas or pool water plumbing.

I emailed an asked.

They are pretty easy to install. It’s just a threaded connection. But you have to do what your town inspector requires.

 

[ForceEdge]

They are pretty easy to install. It’s just a threaded connection. But you have to do what your town inspector requires.

gotcha. Do I need to specifically order Raypak’s? Or can I buy some threaded pipe and put a PRV valve on it myself and make it?

Would rather not spend $500 bucks on a part I can make myself for probably $20

 

[JoyfulNoise]

gotcha. Do I need to specifically order Raypak’s? Or can I but some threaded pipe and put a PRV valve on it myself and make it?

Clearly they are charging a lot for a valve that is pretty typical in most water heater applications. But this is common - put the word “pool” in front of any common object and the price of that object instantly triples. Magical.

On the flip side, pool water is not like potable water - it’s very high in chlorine and minerals. Is the Raypak TPV better than your garden variety HomeDepot TPV … I dunno the answer to that. Would Raypak claim that you installed the wrong TPV on their heater and therefore your warranty is null and void … maybe. It’s all about what risk you’re willing to take. If spending $500 is peace of mind, then it’s worth it. If not, then do it yourself and accept the risks.

 

[ForceEdge]

Clearly they are charging a lot for a valve that is pretty typical in most water heater applications. But this is common - put the word “pool” in front of any common object and the price of that object instantly triples. Magical.

On the flip side, pool water is not like potable water - it’s very high in chlorine and minerals. Is the Raypak TPV better than your garden variety HomeDepot TPV … I dunno the answer to that. Would Raypak claim that you installed the wrong TPV on their heater and therefore your warranty is null and void … maybe. It’s all about what risk you’re willing to take. If spending $500 is peace of mind, then it’s worth it. If not, then do it yourself and accept the risks.

Justin called up Raypak. I can install one myself with parts from any local hardware store. Had them even send me an email confirming it would Not void warranty.

I’m just questioning how it threads into unit, and into fittings. Do I use tape on threads or pipe dope?

Off to Home Depot I go.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Justin called up Raypak. I can install one myself with parts from any local hardware store. Had them even send me an email confirming it would Not void warranty.

I’m just questioning how it threads into unit, and into fittings. Do I use tape on threads or pipe dope?

Off to Home Depot I go.

I ALWAYS use both tape on the threads and then smear liquid teflon sealant on top of the tape. That way there is both sealants present and it makes a very long lasting seal that doesn’t harden for future removal ease. Tape alone often isn’t sufficient to seal pipe threads. I’ve never had a leak doing it that way.

It looks like you need the TPV as well as a length of pipe nipple to extend the TPV to the outside of the panel. I would use all brass components, no galvanized. The brass will not corrode and is very stable towards pool water.

 

[ForceEdge]

I ALWAYS use both tape on the threads and then smear liquid teflon sealant on top of the tape. That way there is both sealants present and it makes a very long lasting seal that doesn’t harden for future removal ease. Tape alone often isn’t sufficient to seal pipe threads. I’ve never had a leak doing it that way.

It looks like you need the TPV as well as a length of pipe nipple to extend the TPV to the outside of the panel. I would use all brass components, no galvanized. The brass will not corrode and is very stable towards pool water.

Will do! And excuse the ignorance here but what is TPV?

This is the diagram I was going off of

So I needed a few 90s 5 inch nipple and the pressure relief valve.

Do they have brass pipe ? I was going to use gal
Also, what is sticking out of the PRV valve? How would that fit into 90 elbow? Looks to long

Thanks so much!!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Will do! And excuse the ignorance here but what is TPV?

This is the diagram I was going off of

So I needed a few 90s 5 inch nipple and the pressure relief valve.

Do they have brass pipe ? I was going to use gal

Temperature-Pressure Valve (TPV). You find them on water boilers. If they simply operate off pressure then they’re called PRVs - Presure Relief Valve. The terms are used interchangeably even though there’s subtle differences in how they work.

You should always opt for brass on pool equipment. Brass is less prone to corrosion than galvanized steel. Galvanized steel can corrode easily if it is placed in contact with more noble metals.

 

[ForceEdge]

Temperature-Pressure Valve (TPV). You find them on water boilers. If they simply operate off pressure then they’re called PRVs - Presure Relief Valve. The terms are used interchangeably even though there’s subtle differences in how they work.

You should always opt for brass on pool equipment. Brass is less prone to corrosion than galvanized steel. Galvanized steel can corrode easily if it is placed in contact with more noble metals.

Gotcha I’ll go for brass! So I need a PRV and TRV together
Thanks!

 

[ForceEdge]

Temperature-Pressure Valve (TPV). You find them on water boilers. If they simply operate off pressure then they’re called PRVs - Presure Relief Valve. The terms are used interchangeably even though there’s subtle differences in how they work.

You should always opt for brass on pool equipment. Brass is less prone to corrosion than galvanized steel. Galvanized steel can corrode easily if it is placed in contact with more noble metals.

Would you also know what PSI the relief valve needs to be? Can’t find that in manual

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Raypak doesn’t say in the manual. You’d have to call and ask.

 

[ForceEdge]

Raypak doesn’t say in the manual. You’d have to call and ask.

Just called Raypak twice. One person said 75 psi, another said 125 lol

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Just called Raypak twice. One person said 75 psi, another said 125 lol

I think either one would work. A pool systems pressure will never exceed 50psi simply because of the pumps involved. It’s rare for a system to exceed 30psi in most normal cases.

I think a 75psi valve will work just fine.

 

[ForceEdge]

I think either one would work. A pool systems pressure will never exceed 50psi simply because of the pumps involved. It’s rare for a system to exceed 30psi in most normal cases.

I think a 75psi valve will work just fine.

You got it. Thank you SO much for the help!!