Taylor CYA testing

[datadr93]

I'm not understanding the little black dot.

With new hot tub, added 2 ounces of dichlor (over 2 days) to give me the 30 CYA before convert to SWG and chlorine. But when test with Taylor, the black dot disappears at the 70 level. Test strips gives me the 30-50 range which I would expect.

 

[Mdragger88]

Are you doing the test in bright light (outdoors, sunny day, back to the sun is best)

 

[Mdragger88]

Also - you used 2 oz by weight not volume correct?

 

[Mdragger88]

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[datadr93]

Also - you used 2 oz by weight not volume correct?

I actually use a small scale for my measuring container.

It is somewhat cloudy outside but I do my tests by the pool/tub. Had similar issues when testing pool over summer. Dot disappeared at the 100 level. Only used dry powder and SWG/chlorine... No tabs.

 

[sande005]

What were you at before the dichlor add? Are you sure your Tub actually has 254 gallons?
Methinks something is off in how you are viewing the dot and judging its disappearance.
You can buy a standardized solution to verify your CYA testing - R-7065 CYA Standard 50ppm (2oz)
Using it, you can then have a reference for how much the dot should disappear when CYA is at 50.

 

[datadr93]

What were you at before the dichlor add? Are you sure your Tub actually has 254 gallons?
Methinks something is off in how you are viewing the dot and judging its disappearance.
You can buy a standardized solution to verify your CYA testing - R-7065 CYA Standard 50ppm (2oz)
Using it, you can then have a reference for how much the dot should disappear when CYA is at 50.

New tub new fill. All specs point to 254 gallons

 

[Mdragger88]

Consistency is key but full light is important.
Some people have a bright light in their home that serves the purpose.
There’s a few reasons for such a variance:
1: your interpretation influenced by the lighting
2: degraded reagent (cya reagent is the most robust but can still be compromised by improper storage - this can occur in a warehouse or during shipping, some have reported receiving expired reagents)
3: cya was already present before the addition (cya is obviously in stabilizer/conditioner products as well as dichlor & trichlor products - this can be tab or granular form) - in your tub with a fresh fill this is unlikely.
4: your volume calculation is off (2 oz should yield 40ppm cya in 200 gal) so I don’t think that’s it unless you’re way off
5: you mis measured the dichlor- but we covered that.
What dichlor did you use?

 

[datadr93]

What dichlor did you use?

I use the Leisure Time 56 granules (99% dichlor).

4: your volume calculation is off (2 oz should yield 40ppm cya in 200 gal) so I don’t think that’s it unless you’re way off
5: you mis measured the dichlor- but we covered that.

I used Pool Math... 2 ounces dichlor for 254 gallons yielded effect of 30ppm CYA. For measuring, I work in oncology so I'm extremely OCD with measuring liquids... I go by the meniscus in the tube to exact level... I'm a creature of habit on this aspect... LOL.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Are you letting the water sample come to room temperature before testing?

Have you recently purged the spa plumbing or added any other chemicals other than chlorine and acid?

 

[datadr93]

Water sample was straight from tub (102 F)... but just tested again and now falls between the 30 and 40 mark after water temp came down to room temp. So that may have been factor.

Brand new tub installed on Saturday. Filled, ran a purge with Aqua Clarity, drained, and then refill. Then added the dichlor in 0.4 ounce increments over couple days to total of 2 ounces (5 doses). Added the maint Aqua Clarity after refill after initial dichlor.

I did add salt over 2 days (75% initially then remaining 25%) then connected SWG (current FC 2.5; CC 0). I also needed to add MA due to high alkalinity of well water (240 TA to start)... I'm now down to 80/pH 7.6... about 10 ounces total of MA 31 baum. Will soon be adding my borax with MA counter. Will add 0.4 ounce dichlor monthly to account for lost CYA.

 

[Mdragger88]

(current FC 2.5; CC 0)

30-40 on the cya test = 40
Use the liquid chlorine chart & stay clear of minimum at all times.
Expect to possibly add liquid chlorine to offset bather loads.
Testing fc before & after use for a while will help you get a feel for what each type of bather load requires in your tub.
I have my saltron mini on a timer so it comes on multiple times per day and keeps my fc quite steady instead of a roller coaster/ feast or famine situation.
I can get by with a 30 min 1 person soak with a squeaky clean person without manually dosing but that’s about it. Sometimes I do just push the button before we get in to get ahead of the demand. YMMV
You don’t want the cell attempting to make up for a deficit - it takes too long, just manually dose.
when fc is too low things proliferate very quickly in a warm spa. Hot tub rash is a killjoy.

 

[datadr93]

Currently running FC 4, CC 0. Mini running at 5 hours/day. Had 4 in tub last night watching yanks and guards for about 2+ hours. Keeping plastic shot glass and jug of chlorine by tub side. Dropped one shot before closed lid.

With just wife and I, FC over last few days has been averaging FC 4 to 5. Retested the CA and Dot was visible at the 40 line and "maybe" visible at the 30 line when allowed sample hit room temp. Happy to use the 40 level for FC needs.

After adding borax (with MA counter) TA sits around 70 and pH around 7.4 to 7.6.

Maybe I'll turn up cell to 6 hours but the shot glass of chlorine after we soak is still experiment when measure next morning. Once have grasp of what's working as you said I can go to every 3 or 4 day testing. I'm only 1 week in.

 

[Mdragger88]

My tub is small like yours-
I generally run my mini 2-4 hours/day depending upon the season. 2 in the summer (1hr twice a day)
& 4 in the cooler months when we use it more (2hrs twice per day)
It keeps my fc about 5/6 ppm all the time- this can usually get me through a 2 person 20/30 minute soak without fc falling too low and needing a dose.
Sometimes I will just dose ahead or press the button to run it if I know we will be in a while.
I noticed when I didn’t use the timer fc would be not so steady (high at first then too low to get through a quick dip). Bigger tubs have less of an issue with this as the bather load isn’t as high.
Also since it comes on 24 hours after you start it initially I was finding that I was constantly adjusting it so its start time was always becoming different. Having it on a timer negates that. I have the timer set to turn off for 30 minutes then back on & then the unit runs its set amount of hours & shows the - - until the timer turns it off again then back on
this happens at the same times each day no matter if i have turned it on manually at some point or not. I like knowing that I can look out the window and verify its on at certain times of the day/night.

 

[datadr93]

How do you have timer set? I'm intrigued at the concept and can easily connect one. Just want to make sure I'm understanding your on/off times in relation to the hours set on the mini.

 

[Mdragger88]

If power is removed from the unit it comes on automatically (set at whatever it was previously) once power is reapplied.
So have the mini plugged into a mechanical timer (you can use a smart plug if you want).
I set the mini for 1 hr.
Currently, at 6 am & 6pm my timer goes off (removes power) for 30 minutes.
At 6:30 the timer reapplies power & the mini comes back on & runs for the 1 hour it was set for previously.

 

[datadr93]

I've averaged out the bather load in my head over the last week. Based on our kids, grandchild, wife/I, and some friends randomly, we average about 2.5 persons/30 minutes. Granted, this is a new "toy" and the level of use by everyone will decrease as the "oh my God, we have a hot tub" honeymoon declines.

I bumped up the mini to 6 hours. Plus I've been dropping 1-2 ounces chlorine each evening. This morning FC at 5. So for this particular moment may be in a good place. As the interest level declines (my wife and I still plan nightly soaks) I can decrease the mini and supplement with chlorine as needed (based on load/usage).

I'm looking at a few timers and will report back on that once I settle on device.

 

[Mdragger88]

I have been using smart plugs for a myriad of things that I used to use mechanical timers on - Christmas lights, scentsy warmers, coffee pot, dolphin etc.
The 3 main advantages i notice are:
No ticking,
Don’t lose time when a power outage occurs,
& the ability to change settings or run/turn off on demand from afar.
These things would be nice but for my needs with the mini they aren’t necessary so I haven’t yet made the change.
The particular timer I use for the mini has a cord and is outdoor rated with is own little enclosure.
A basic $10 smart plug doesn’t have these features and needs to be able to fit inside an in use outlet cover so it needs to be round & the cover needs to be very deep to accommodate it unless going with an outdoor version in my experience. For my dolphin it is plugged into a quad & does take up quite a bit of real estate inside the box.
Also my husband and family don’t use any of the smart apps so their control over the devices that are plugged into smart plugs is limited to using the button to turn it off/on or yelling at alexa through a smart speaker.
I have my patio string lights plugged into one & the last time I was out of town he had to call me to turn them on because “she” wouldn’t listen to him lol

 

[datadr93]

I have a smart house until wifi goes down and then it's a very dumb house.

I have some external outlets around pool area but also use waterproof cases for all my string/smart lights outside. Just ordered outdoor Kasa smart plug. Arrives tomorrow.

 

[datadr93]

After well used weekend, this morning FC at 4.5, pH at 7.8, and TA at 50. Mini running at 8 hours/day.
Used 1oz shot chlorine for every bather (6 total during day).