switch to swg - equipment question

Jul 11, 2013
11
Phoenix AZ
so i have been doing straight muriatic acid, liquid chlorine, using taylor test kit, etc etc etc for the last 3 years. trouble free method has been great.

but ive come to realize i am constantly adding chlorine... and it has just become an annoyance. especially with travel and coming home to find FC depleted. and being in phoenix, the sun just does a beating on FC, even with higher CYA levels. i never knew what swg was and a friend suggested it, and ive read up on it. im determined to make the switch. but have questions on equipment.

current equipment: 10.5k gal pool, installed late 2013, hayward variable speed pump (model SP3400VSP), hayward cartridge filters (model HCF7030C), and hayward pro logic (PL-P-4) control box.

im looking to get swg from hayward.... aquarite with TCELL-3 (15k gal) or TCELL-9 (25k gal).

Questions...

1. given my pool is 10k gal, is the 15k gal unit sufficient? or is it smarter to go to 25k gal TCELL?

2. it seems aquarite is control box. i already have pro logic, which in the manaul already has settings for doing chlorination with swg. do i need to buy the aquarite control box + TCELL, or just the TCELL?

3. what should i expect for cost of installation of box/TCELL? Any recommendations on who? (i have no idea)

4. how much FC should i expect from swg in this config?


also note, originally had a trident uv system installed, but had it removed because it began to leak and had excessive sun damage. id intend to use the in/out piping and 'splice' the swg in at this point. attached pic of pool and equipment for reference.

thanks!
 

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I have a Hayward AQR15, but no automation system, so I can't advise you on the equipment needed I will address the cell size. I would recommend the t-15 cell. I know it rated for up to 40,000 gallon pool, but you need to understand what that means. A cell will only produce a finite amount of chlorine before it's depleted and must be replaced. The rate of production also varies with the sizes. Cells are rated based on operating 24 hours a day. Since most people don't want to run their pump and SWG 24/7, we recommend a much higher rated one. Output can always be turned down on a SWG and run time shortened, so a cell can never be too big for the pool. Also, when you buy a salt cell you are paying for your chlorine upfront and the best economy is almost always with the largest size.

To calculate the cost of chlorine divide the cost of a replacement cell by the life expectancy. Using a T-15 cell in my pool, my first cell lasted 7.5 years and cost about $450 to replace. So for my 19k pool, in very sunny Tucson, which is open year-round, my chlorine cost was $60 per year. That's the advantage of the larger cell.

In a balanced pool a properly sized SWG will produce all the chlorine you need to maintain the pool. Liquid chlorine is recommended only when you need a quick boost, like on startup or in the event of an algae bloom. I have very rarely used any liquid at all. About the only thing I ever use is some muriatic acid to balance the pH.
 
You only need the T cell and the installation kit (unions and flow sensor). No need for the control box.

Install is very easy if you have ever done any PVC work. And if you have not, easy to learn.
 
thank for inputs. sounds like T15 is better choice.

not worried about pvc. but what is the extent of electrical or wiring work?

and does the swg need to be installed horizontal or vertical? only seen pics or videos in horizontal position.
 
There really is no electrical work. The cell and flow sensor just plug into your prologic.

I am not sure about the vertical install .... but you are right, I usually see horizontal. Would need to check the manual.
 
Why do I see 3 return lines out of the filter and only 1 into the old uv system?

not really sure to be honest with you. i took a ton of pics during build, but they had the piping by the equipment covered up and done same-day, so it is guess on my end.

california pools did my build and did a 'wave force' cleaning system. no vacuum. no infloor. basically multiple return jets drive debris into main drain. surprised actually that it works so well. never any build up of leaves or dirt in pool. the cylinder thing with 6 pipes out of bottom are the actual returns into pool, a mechanism in it rotates water flow perioidically across the different returns.

my guess is that the filter outputs to old uv, that returns back, then that ends in the cylinder thing to return to pool.


guess of flow...
arrows.JPG


wave force diagram thing...
waveforce.JPG


piping during pool build...
piping.JPG
 

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This is the Tee the flow switch mounts into
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-FLO-T-Replacement-Chlorine-Generators/dp/B005IVZIEE

and here are the unions
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-...rd_wg=bhOux&psc=1&refRID=W3DEF2W1QQPXGPEH8G36

Here is the whole kit - Tee, flow switch and unions
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-P-KIT-Replacement-Automatic-Generation/dp/B004I4B5IK

Cell can be installed vert or horiz, be mindful of the installation requirement of the Flow Switch
"IMPORTANT: There must be at least a 12" (30cm) straight pipe run before (upstream) the flow switch. If
the switch is plumbed after the cell, the cell can by counted as the 12" (30cm) of straight pipe."

The Installation Manual for you ProLogic has the info, if you don't have that manual your can find it here
https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/PLTPM-PL-PS-x&PL-PS-x-VInstallationOct08&Later.pdf
see page 11

 
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