Plumbing, replacing C1200 Filter due to tie-rod strip

[Jtl323]

Good afternoon,

I have an inground 13-15k gallon salt pool with a Star Clear C1200 cartridge filtration system. As is apparently an issue, my tie rod started coming out of the bottom when i would unscrew the top to maintain the cartridge, been doing it for close to three years since we assumed the pool and this house. I didnt realize it wasnt supposed to. Over time, it appears the threads at the bottom became worn and almost nonexistent, and after a recent cartridge change, i had a blowout . When the pool pressurized it blew the lid right off the Filter housing and i lost quite a bit of water. Attempted to epoxy the tie-rod with JB Weld 4000psi , let it cure for 36 hours, and it blew again and took the JB Weld with it. So now im ordering a new filter housing to replace the whole unit.

My question finally is thus.... before i start performing surgery on the existing PVC ( and im sure every installation is different and so mine wont be a standard answer), is there nay tips or tricks i need to know? For instance, do the pvc connections usually screw in and out of the old unit to new, or will i need to cut and then splice with some sort of threaded/unthreaded connector? Is there a solvent i should or should not use ? Should i use teflon tape or plumbers glue? I just want to tap peoples experiences before i begin so i can avoid any issues that others may have had and take advantage of the success stories. Plus...while not a plumbing virgin i am also not a veteran, and i like easy, kindergarten step by step instructions

Im not 100% sure whether my PVC is 1.5" or 2", im at work and cannot measure, but the filter manufacturer paperwork suggests it comes with adapters for either size...

Thanks for any tips or tricks for this novice.

 

[Texas Splash]

Well, that stinks. I have basically the same filter I know my day will come too. When it does, I now my installers simply screwed the adapters into the bottom of the filter and glued the PVC in & out pipes to them, not caring about any future removal or maintenance. (see My Pool link below). So when I have to, I'm sure I'll pick a spot further away from the filter and cut-out the pipes and unscrew the adapters from the bottom of the filter or toss the whole filter in its entirety.

When I set the new filter in place, I'll "try" to think it through and give myself enough room to install unions which can be unscrewed at a later time as needed so I can actually remove a component if maintenance is required. For glue you can use regular PVC 2-part prime and glue (purple), or what a lot of people do is get the blue PVC pool glue which is a one-shot application of its own. Quick and easy. Before gluing, you can try to do a dry-fit of everything to make sure you have cuts & connections close. Other than that, it's all up to you and preference.

This might be a good time to think long-term in case there's anything else you might need or want later, and give yourself plenty of room for plumbing if you can. Good luck!

 

[Jtl323]

UPDATE and new question....

So i successfully replaced the Filter and had to do some plumbing cutting and replacing. Turned it on and everything actually worked. Only issue.... the threaded PVC connector that screws into the exit port on the filter is leaking (see pic). I wrapped it in three or four turns of tape before screwing it in , apparently should have used more. Problem is, due to the existing plumbing space contraints, although the filter connections are threaded, the pvc running into the threaded male was made permanent, so i cant unscrew the male without cutting the PVC and ruining the male and having to do more splicing again. Any suggestions on what to do to stop the leak that will not ruin the filter by making the male connector permanently cemented? Would a silicone sealant work that i could later peel off if necessary?

Thanks all.

 

[Texas Splash]

Oh no! I don't even want to answer that one. Well, unless you completely take it out and reseal the threads, I don't see anything you can do. Anything you try to apply on the outside will probably just peel-away. If it's not a gusher and just simply oozing a few drips, you might just leave it alone. If the OCD in you can't let it go (link me), you'd have to cut, unscrew, and reseal with more Teflon tape or some plumbers goop.

I guess there wasn't enough room to install a union huh?

 

[Jtl323]

No. Doing what i did was like playing a game of advanced Tetris as it was to try to cut and line up and match everything up without scrapping 90% of the existing PVC and completely starting over. Which in retrospect may have been easier.

The leak definitely isnt a gusher, but it also isnt a drip. Its a steady flow, but not spraying out under pressure. Ill try drying it later and maybe i can cram some tape in there. So you dont think water seal silicone would be the way to go since i can remove it if i need to later? Im stumbling my way through this and learning one repair at a time..

 

[Texas Splash]

So you dont think water seal silicone would be the way to go since i can remove it if i need to later?

You can certainly try, just don't get your hopes up. It's wet in there so trying to get a product to squeeze into that damp area and seal against water pressure from the inside-out doesn't always have the outcome we would like. But at least it's not a major leak. You can experiment with it until such time you know any attempts to seal it either works, or you simply start over .... or "half over" on just that one side. Before all of this is over, you'll be an expert.

 

[Jtl323]

Thanks for the advice and all the support. I love this forum. Having information and experience at your fingertips like this is priceless.