Plumbing design

detlion1643

Well-known member
May 14, 2020
79
Erie, PA
The snow is still coming down here, but I'm organizing everything I need for an early spring install. The wife and kids are really anxious about getting the pool put up and together, since we got our pool delivered late August (when we ordered in mid-April) in 2020. As 2020 was shot, so going over everything I need in order to be prepared as soon as can be.

I remember having a design for running pvc pipes, but now I can't find it anymore. I drew up a diagram on how I think I can make this work. I remember being worried about how to drain water from the pool. I wonder if my new design will work, or if it's not worth it at all.

The orange circles/blobs are unions, the blue circles/blobs are shutoff valves, black is for skimmer run, and red for return run. I'm undecided on the solar run yet, but want to plan ahead just in case. I was thinking that "lowest drain point" would be slightly angled downwards upon teeing off the main return line, with a shutoff at the end. This would allow me to direct drain water where needed. (My yard has a slight hill where I can have some pipe and shutoff come out of without being in the way of the yard).

If doing the solar run, would this suffice, or does it need a shutoff on the return side of the solar? I don't know if there is a problem with pumping return water and it going up into the solar return side?

This should hopefully allow me to easily blow out the lines for winterizing, starting with the skimmer side blowing air through the pump/filter, and through all the open solar/return lines (including drain line). Is this correct?
 

Attachments

  • plumbing diagram.png
    plumbing diagram.png
    21.1 KB · Views: 37
Hey there - I enjoyed your blob image! I don’t know anything about attaching solar heating so I’m bumping this for you, hoping others will chime in!
 
The snow is still coming down here, but I'm organizing everything I need for an early spring install. The wife and kids are really anxious about getting the pool put up and together, since we got our pool delivered late August (when we ordered in mid-April) in 2020. As 2020 was shot, so going over everything I need in order to be prepared as soon as can be.

I remember having a design for running pvc pipes, but now I can't find it anymore. I drew up a diagram on how I think I can make this work. I remember being worried about how to drain water from the pool. I wonder if my new design will work, or if it's not worth it at all.

The orange circles/blobs are unions, the blue circles/blobs are shutoff valves, black is for skimmer run, and red for return run. I'm undecided on the solar run yet, but want to plan ahead just in case. I was thinking that "lowest drain point" would be slightly angled downwards upon teeing off the main return line, with a shutoff at the end. This would allow me to direct drain water where needed. (My yard has a slight hill where I can have some pipe and shutoff come out of without being in the way of the yard).

If doing the solar run, would this suffice, or does it need a shutoff on the return side of the solar? I don't know if there is a problem with pumping return water and it going up into the solar return side?

This should hopefully allow me to easily blow out the lines for winterizing, starting with the skimmer side blowing air through the pump/filter, and through all the open solar/return lines (including drain line). Is this correct?

Where you have the shutoff leading to the solar, I'd use a 3-way valve right at the intersection of the red and green lines. (So you can either direct the water to the solar, or the other way.) If you just use a shut-off valve, then in the "open" position water could still flow the other way and not all would be forced through the solar.

On the return side of the solar, I'd just add a check-valve. That would allow water to flow from the solar to the pool, but block any back flow.
 
You don't need a drain in your pool. There are other, better ways to drain a pool, if you ever need to, that don't require another penetration (in the bottom!).

Your solar system needs to be plumbed properly for optimum performance. magiteck got you most of the way there, with his description of a three-way valve. If the panels are on the roof, that valve needs to be a special type of three-way valve, called a "solar drain-down" valve. If the panels are on the ground, then that is not needed, a normal three-way will do. The check valve he describes is not always necessary, but I would put one in (especially if the panels are on the ground). And then you're going to want to attach an actuator to the three-way solar valve, so that it can be operated by a solar controller (which you'll also need). Which means the valve needs to be a quality three-way that can accept an actuator. If the panels are on the roof, you'll also need a vacuum relief valve (sometimes called a vacuum breaker).

You don't want to just turn your solar heater on and off manually. A controller is much more efficient in heating the pool, and it's hard enough to get a pool warm even with a controller.

Pentair sells a bundle that will work if you're on a budget and don't need a fancy automation controller. This system includes the controller, the valve, the actuator and the temperature sensors. Shop around, it's about $300.


They also sell an entry level pool controller that can run your solar and your pool pump. You should give some thought to what level of automation you might want, if any, and plan that out before you buy anything, because not everything is compatible with everything else. Don't piecemeal it together until you have a clear picture of the final setup, then buy just what is needed.

Here's what a rooftop solar plumbing system looks like. Note there are actually two check valves. The optional one we mentioned, and a second one after the filter. If your system is on the ground, then the plumbing might look differently.

solar plumbing 3.gif
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: magiteck
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.