PH rising along with other numbers..

This is only my third time using my test kit, and still very new at all of this so bare with me....
3 days ago my Taylor K2006c test kit had these readings:
FC- 7.5, CC-0, PH- 7.5, TA- 100, CH- 330, CYA- 30, Salt 3100.
I did what was recommended on pool math and now my numbers are:
FC- 12, CC- 1, PH- 7.8, TA- 120, CH- 320, CYA- 50, Salt 3200.
My SWG was running at 40% for 6 hrs a day, and I just cut that down to 15% hoping to get the FC down. I also added the recommended dosage of dry acid, Calcium Chloride, and Stabilizer that I got from plugging my numbers in pool math, and I did that today. Being so new at all this I'm worried that I'm spiraling out of control with my numbers? I'm going to test again tomorrow, but wanted to get some initial thoughts. Thanks!
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10,000 gallon SWG pool, Wet Edge pebble interior finish, 2' wide sheer waterfall with electric actuator value, Hayward Tri-star variable speed pump, Hayward Smart Filter, Taylor K-2006C test kit with SpeedStir. City water.
 
The pH test is invalid with a FC level over 10. Also, it is better to use muriatic (hydrochloric) acid than dry acid, dry acid has sulfates that can build up over time. You will want to bump that CYA up just a little more. How does the water look?
 
Welcome back to another season! :swim: Well, your initial numbers weren't bad other than perhaps a low CYA level for a SWG pool, but then your CC spiked on the 2nd test, and your TA increased. So let's slow things down a bit and do this (also, please post your readings in this manner as well - easier to read):
FC - Elevated yes, but okay. Lowering SWG % or pump run time should help. Warmer temps will probably use more as well
CC - Elevated over the ideal 0.5ppm. Could mean the water was struggling to oxidize stuff in the water from the previous chemical additions, or not enough sun to help with oxidation. Watch it for the next day or to.
CYA - We know for a CYA pool it should be 70, but for now - leave it. Your FC level is obviously not struggling yet, and it's best to make sure that CC level drops and your water stays crystal clear. "IF" in the event you learned you had algae, a SLAM with a CYA of 50 would require less bleach than that at a CYA of 70. Once you're confident algae is not an issue, you can bump the CYA up to 70 for summer.
PH - Not sure why it creeped-up (perhaps just the elevated FC level), but pH can do that. Once your FC falls below 10, check again to ensure it is below 7.8 at all times.
TA - This should not have increased from the 1st test unless some products were added. When TA goes up, it allows pH to rise more freely (which we do not want), so next time you add acid (preferably muriatic acid not dry acid) to lower the pH, try adding enough muriatic acid to lower the pH to 7.2, then you can simply aerate the water to allow the pH to rise. That should help bring the TA back down. Your TA can go down to about 70 or so and be just fine. It will probably help the pH stay more stable as well.
CH - Stay right where you are unless you do a major water exchange. Like CYA, once CH is in - it's in. Fill water can often increase the CH level as well, so it should be good for a while. Test in about a month.

Hope that helps.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the advice, and will post in a column so its easier to read next time. Water looks great, and I'm going to test it this afternoon once I get home to see if the acid helped lower the TA. I have Muriatic acid as well so will be sure to use that next time instead of the dry acid. I don't think I have algae, but I'm still a rookie so it's hard for me to know for sure. From what I've read my FC would have to be much lower to get algae...could be wrong on that? Thanks again for all the help and coaching!!
 
With enough FC to be above the minimum for your CYA and proper circulation it will be very difficult for algae to become a problem. Some algae can form a protective shell and attach to the wall, which is (one reason) it's important to brush the entire pool on a weekly basis.
 
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