PB just turned over pool to me, what do I correct first?

[rookie177]

Hi everyone! After a long pool build and 6 weeks of start up, our PB has finally closed out their permits and turned over maintenance to me. All readings are out of range, so what should I tackle first? Unfortunately, the salt cell isn’t working yet, so I’ll be using liquid chlorine in the meantime.

Here’s what I’m thinking based on Pool Math
1. Use Muriatic Acid to correct PH
2. Start adding liquid chlorine to maintain.
3. Add CYA

What should I do about CH and Salt? Looks like the PB went overboard with the Salt and my CH is way too high. Am I in a situation where I should replace some of the water in the pool?

 

[PoolGate]

Chlorine ASAP! Next, CYA. Next, pH.

BTW: What SWCG do you have that works with 6000ppm? If truly 6000, you need to do a water exchange to get that to 3000.

 

[JJ_Tex]

+1 on Chlorine.

99% of the time, chlorine should be your #1 priority. How long has it been 0? Do you have liquid chlorine on hand? If so, please add some before you finish reading this sentence.
By the way, 24oz of 10% chlorine will add 4.7ppm of chlorine to your 4k gallon pool.

 

[rookie177]

BTW: What SWCG do you have that works with 6000ppm? If truly 6000, you need to do a water exchange to get that to 3000.

It's a Jandy TruClear 11k - should be run at 3000ppm according to their documentation, but the PB added too much salt during the startup process. The 6,000ppm reading is from my TF-Pro Salt Kit.

Thanks for the confirmation on the order of operations. I threw 24 ounces of Chlorine into the pool just a few minutes ago, I'll test later this afternoon and see where we're at.

 

[jdsaengine]

In the fall of 2023 my PB added too much salt, way over 5000. My pool is 4.5' deep and all last year probably exchanged at least a foot or two of water. Opening last week and salt is still at 3800.
PB left 8 bags of salt, at this point that much may last me 15 years !!

 

[PoolGate]

It's a Jandy TruClear 11k - should be run at 3000ppm according to their documentation, but the PB added too much salt during the startup process. The 6,000ppm reading is from my TF-Pro Salt Kit.

Thanks for the confirmation on the order of operations. I threw 24 ounces of Chlorine into the pool just a few minutes ago, I'll test later this afternoon and see where we're at.

OK - so what I would do is a 50% water change first.

 

[pjt]

All readings are out of range

Your signature says TF-100 on the way. Is that what you used to get this data or are you using a different kit?

What should I do about CH and Salt? Looks like the PB went overboard with the Salt and my CH is way too high. Am I in a situation where I should replace some of the water in the pool?

Assuming the data is accurate, how did the salt and calcium get so high on a fresh fill? When was salt added?

 

[PoolGate]

Also - test your fill water and see what the CH level is. If it is really high, you might be better off paying for a load of pool water that is low in CH when you do the 50% water change. Of course only if the CH is very low. You have a small volume so should not be too bad for price.

 

[rookie177]

Your signature says TF-100 on the way. Is that what you used to get this data or are you using a different kit?

I am using a TF-Pro Salt, sorry my signature was outdated.

Assuming the data is accurate, how did the salt and calcium get so high on a fresh fill? When was salt added?

I don't know about the calcium? The PB ran the pool at a fairly low PH during the startup phase, perhaps the calcium leached out of the new plaster? Concerning the Salt, it was definitely the PBs mistake when he added the salt. The pool tested at zero until he told me that he added the salt, then it ran up to 5000-6000ppm

Also - test your fill water and see what the CH level is.

There is certainly calcium in the fill water, but not nearly as much as the pool. The fill water measured about 50ppm

 

[PoolGate]

There is certainly calcium in the fill water, but not nearly as much as the pool. The fill water measured about 50ppm

So how did you get to 750?

 

[rookie177]

So how did you get to 750?

Unfortunately, I don't know. As far as I know, the only things added during startup were muriatic acid, a small amount of liquid chlorine, and they tossed a few tri-chlor tabs into the skimmer after a few weeks.

 

[PoolGate]

Unfortunately, I don't know. As far as I know, the only things added during startup were muriatic acid, a small amount of liquid chlorine, and they tossed a few tri-chlor tabs into the skimmer after a few weeks.

If you have your TF-100 test kit, can you do another full test right now and see what's what? Also can you say exactly how you are doing the CH test?

Hmm..... CYA and calcium carbonate look similar. I wonder if he added the wrong one?

 

[PoolStored]

If your testing proves out, to exchange your water, read "No Drain Water Exchange"

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[rookie177]

Also can you say exactly how you are doing the CH test?

1. 10 ml pool water
2. 10 drops of R-0010 and while mixing on smart stir
3. 3 drops of R-0011L while mixing on smart stir
3. Added R-0012, one drop at a time until color changed to blue. Somewhere between 29-30 drops

Measured at 750 again.

 

[PoolStored]

Do me a solid. On the drops, before you use the reagent wipe the tips with a wet paper towel and test one more time.

Builder must have added a bunch of CH.

 

[pjt]

For the TA test, remember to keep adding drops until there's no additional color change. This is typically ~3 more drops after the color begins to change.

 

[PoolStored]

For the TA test, remember to keep adding drops until there's no additional color change. This is typically ~3 more drops after the color begins to change.

+100. Same for the CH test.