North Carolina Pool Closing

[pzampino]

After reading related threads here, and many other sources of similar information, I'm still not 100% sure how to safely winterize my IG pool in the Raleigh NC area.

I don't want to run my pump all winter, so I've decided to winterize/close it until spring.

What I think I know:
- clean, balance and SLAM the pool
- drain the sand filter
- drain the pump
- remove "eyes" from returns
- lower pool water below skimmers
- bring my salt cell indoors

Is any of that unnecssary?

What I know I don't know:
- Do I need to blow out the lines?
- Do I need to plug the skimmers and returns?

Am I missing anything else?

 

[Catanzaro]

What I know I don't know: - Do I need to blow out the lines? - Do I need to plug the skimmers and returns? Am I missing anything else?

pzampino:

My first question to you would be "what do the temperature's drop down to in the night and back to the day" during the winter? The reason behind this is that if your winter months are not that cold for a long period of time, you may be able to get away with working backwards and/or possibly only removing some water from your plumbing. You may not even need to winterize your main drain.

But at least, you will have to remove some water from the skimmer and return lines. You could try plugging both the skimmer and return lines, then going in and vacuuming some water out of the lines. As added protection, you could add 1/2 gallon of antifreeze to your lines (which probably is not needed).

Please provide a little more information on the weather and for how long. Also, pictures of your equipment pad and a description of your pool would be great. How many skimmers, main drain, returns, etc.? How far is the filter and pump from the pool (mine is long) and at least 75 ft. to 100 ft., depending on where we are going with 2" plumbing. Is your plumbing 1" or greater? Thanks!

Also, is this your first season and/or what have you done in the past?

 

[pzampino]

pzampino:

My first question to you would be "what do the temperature's drop down to in the night and back to the day" during the winter? The reason behind this is that if your winter months are not that cold for a long period of time, you may be able to get away with working backwards and/or possibly only removing some water from your plumbing. You may not even need to winterize your main drain.

But at least, you will have to remove some water from the skimmer and return lines. You could try plugging both the skimmer and return lines, then going in and vacuuming some water out of the lines. As added protection, you could add 1/2 gallon of antifreeze to your lines (which probably is not needed).

Please provide a little more information on the weather and for how long. Also, pictures of your equipment pad and a description of your pool would be great. How many skimmers, main drain, returns, etc.? How far is the filter and pump from the pool (mine is long) and at least 75 ft. to 100 ft., depending on where we are going with 2" plumbing. Is your plumbing 1" or greater? Thanks!

Also, is this your first season and/or what have you done in the past?

This is my first season with the pool. We moved into this home in May of this year, and due to these forums, I've had great success all season. I've never owned a pool previously.

The average high temp in Jan. is 51, and the average low is 32. This is typically the coldest month of the year here.

I don't currently have a picture of my equipment, but I have 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, and 2 returns.
The equipment is in close proximity to the pool.
I don't know about the in-ground plumbing, but the PVC above ground e.g., connected to sand filter) is 1.5".

Thanks for being willing to help.

 

[duraleigh]

I lived in Raleigh and owned a pool for 10+ years.

I chose not to close. Your pump runtime can be cut wa-a-ay back so I don't think that expense would be a good reason to fully close. We simply left ours open and ran the pump often enough to keep it clean

 

[pzampino]

I lived in Raleigh and owned a pool for 10+ years.

I chose not to close. Your pump runtime can be cut wa-a-ay back so I don't think that expense would be a good reason to fully close. We simply left ours open and ran the pump often enough to keep it clean

I've read another thread in which you said the same. Did you have to run the pump 24/7 during freezing temps? I don't currently have a timer, and when I travel during the winter months, I would have to leave the pump running 24/7 while I'm away.

I would also have to get a "dummy pipe" to replace the salt cell in order for the system to run during the winter; Apparently, Hayward uses a patented thread on the ends of their SWG cell units, so I can't just run to Home Depot and make myself a "dummy".

I appreciate your perspective and input though; I hope it doesn't sound otherwise.

 

[pooldv]

I run my VS pump at 1100 rpm which is a fairly low flow rate. With pump running and temps in the low 20s I have had no issues with plumbing freezing or ice on the surface of the pool. We only had ice form on part of the pool surface one time during the polar vortex where temps stayed below freezing, day and night, for 3 days running and lows were in the teens. Even then no issues with plumbing freezing. My SWG cell remained installed the last 4 winters and did fine.

If you have a single speed 1hp or more pump it might be worth installing an Intermatic time clock with built in freeze protection to turn the pump on when the temps drop.