Nature2 / Jandy PLC1400 error

[PoolGate]

I am getting 120 error on my LCD panel. -->120 Low current in forward direction to Cell. 1. Clean cell if necessary (see Section 6.3).2. Check DC Cord.

Cell is 2 seasons old and looks great so I do not think it is the cell. I reversed the connector at the cell and still get 120, not 121. I think this would indicate that the cell is not the issue, yes?

Also the cell never reverses. I am pretty sure the 120 error pops up when it tries. Otherwise there is no error and it always shows "forward" direction. Do I still get the full salt production even if the cell doesn't reverse? Since my cell is clean and reversing the cell is to keep scaling down, without scaling, I really don't "need" the cell to reverse right?

I have a spare cable so I will replace that and see if the error goes away.

 

[JamesW]

Check the current in both directions.

 

[JamesW]

Aquapure 1400 121 Error

I got the 121 error on my FusionSoft a couple days ago. I cleaned the cell and the sensor and the cell ran fine for about a day. Not this morning, it is back. It is still producing chlorine I can see bubbles out of the returns and the display also says it is on. I think my salt may be a little...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JamesW]

 

[PoolGate]

View attachment 565181

Ha - yeah I will I need to crack it open. Maybe after work if it isn't raining again.

 

[PoolGate]

I just replaced the cable with a new one and it made no difference. Not sure what the voltage should be but it runs at "4". For now it appears to be working so I'll keep my eye on it. Not sure where I can find the power supply if that is what it turns out to be.

 

[santacruzpool]

I ran my older Jandy cell with a 120 error for the entire winter last year...it produced 1/2 of the chlorine. On mine it would switch to 121 when I reversed the cable, so it was my cell. I bought a new cell and waited for the pool to warm up enough to need more than the half working cell could provide.

On yours it sounds like a circuit board or Aquapure panel connection issue.

 

[PoolGate]

I ran my older Jandy cell with a 120 error for the entire winter last year...it produced 1/2 of the chlorine. On mine it would switch to 121 when I reversed the cable, so it was my cell. I bought a new cell and waited for the pool to warm up enough to need more than the half working cell could provide.

On yours it sounds like a circuit board or Aquapure panel connection issue.

I need to do a deep dive troubleshooting on it. This weekend is pool maintenance weekend. I'll measure the voltage and see. I can get the power supply board for $300 on Amazon.

 

[PoolGate]

I took a reading at the cell and it is showing a solid 27+ volts. I think that means the cell is getting enough voltage. I can't believe this cell would be bad in just its 3rd season. But my next step is to take the cell apart and look at the plates to see if there is any obvious defects on them.

TEST VOLTAGE AT THE CELL
Turn power off.
Lift cable enough to slide test probes to the
terminals.
Touch common probe to the center terminal
and the other probe to either outside termi-
nal. Make certain cable stays in contact with
terminals.
Turn on power and wait for control to call for
chlorine production.
With the cell under full load there should be
22 to 28 VDC.
If the correct voltage is present, but the cell
is not producing chlorine, manually test the
water chemistry and salt ppm. Correct any
readings out of range. If the problem contin-
ues, replace the cord and cell.
After testing is complete, press the cable
down tightly.

 

[jesse-99]

I've had low current issues (forward and reverse) on both my Jandy PCL1400 SWCGs that I have in place. I'd advice you check your salt level as well. I know it doesn't say it in the troubleshooting guide but, ALL of my intermittent errors seem to go away by just adding more salt to the pool and making sure its above 2800 ppm (using a Taylor salt test, not just relying on what the Jandy SWCG says the reading is).

 

[PoolGate]

I've had low current issues (forward and reverse) on both my Jandy PCL1400 SWCGs that I have in place. I'd advice you check your salt level as well. I know it doesn't say it in the troubleshooting guide but, ALL of my intermittent errors seem to go away by just adding more salt to the pool and making sure its above 2800 ppm (using a Taylor salt test, not just relying on what the Jandy SWCG says the reading is).

Salt is 3600. Measured with the Taylor kit. It was having this issue at the end of last season as well.

 

[PoolGate]

Just to close this out, this turned out to be the cell.....again. Always a failure point with Jandy.

 

[NCMike]

Did you replace the cell yourself and if so where did you buy it from? Mine has the corroded middle prong where the cable connects so I think it needs to be replaced. Error codes 125/194.

 

[PoolGate]

Did you replace the cell yourself and if so where did you buy it from? Mine has the corroded middle prong where the cable connects so I think it needs to be replaced. Error codes 125/194.

How old is it?

I have replaced it myself every time it has gone out. These are consumables (designed for consumer replacement) and they last 3-4 seasons. The first replacement I got from Jandy for free under warranty. The next one from a forum member (slightly used). Both lasted a little over 3 seasons.

I would stick to genuine Nature2/Jandy cells as they aren't a lot more expensive.

 

[NCMike]

How old is it?

I have replaced it myself every time it has gone out. These are consumables (designed for consumer replacement) and they last 3-4 seasons. The first replacement I got from Jandy for free under warranty. The next one from a forum member (slightly used). Both lasted a little over 3 seasons.

I would stick to genuine Nature2/Jandy cells as they aren't a lot more expensive.

Mine latest one was installed July 22. So I got 1 and a half seasons out of it. That unit was a warranty replacement for my original that lasted 2 seasons. Each time its been corrosion on the prongs where the big black cable hooks to the cell. I definitely want a genuine jandy cell but don't know which websites are reputable or which are not.

 

[PoolGate]

Mine latest one was installed July 22. So I got 1 and a half seasons out of it. That unit was a warranty replacement for my original that lasted 2 seasons. Each time its been corrosion on the prongs where the big black cable hooks to the cell. I definitely want a genuine jandy cell but don't know which websites are reputable or which are not.

Have you ever tried for a warranty replacement? I believe the cells are warrantied for 3 years.

 

[NCMike]

Have you ever tried for a warranty replacement? I believe the cells are warrantied for 3 years.

Yes, I have only had 2 since the pool was built. First one went bad just before the 3 year mark. Pool company replaced it and I thought told me the one that was put in under warranty only had a 1 year warranty. So I had assumed the warranty was out on it now. I will follow back up with them and make sure. If its 3 years then I good for another warranty replacement as it was installed in 22.

 

[PoolGate]

Yes, I have only had 2 since the pool was built. First one went bad just before the 3 year mark. Pool company replaced it and I thought told me the one that was put in under warranty only had a 1 year warranty. So I had assumed the warranty was out on it now. I will follow back up with them and make sure. If its 3 years then I good for another warranty replacement as it was installed in 22.

Call Jandy direct.

 

[HermanTX]

Each time its been corrosion on the prongs where the big black cable hooks to the cell. I definitely want a genuine jandy cell but don't know which websites are reputable or which are not.

I put di-electric grease on the prongs and in the black plug. I do this about every 6 months or if I doing something else and I turn off power to the Jandy AquaLink system. So far I have not seen any corrosion.