My fill water is over 400 TA?

[Weasel2017]

Been slowly fighting to drop my TA from 130 ish with MA over the last week and havent made much progress. Been super hot and windy here over the last 2 weeks so some fill water has been added. Decided to test fill tonight and I stopped at 40 drops and it just barely was starting to turn.

We havent been using the solar cover as I haven't finished decking and not a good place to remove it yet without it getting dirty. Once on we should see less evaporation and fill water.

I dont mind maintaining it with MA but am I okay staying in that range of TA for now?

Thanks

 

[Oly]

Calculate your CSI to help guide you as your salt cell may be prone to scaling unless you stay on top of your pH and adjust it down every time you have to add tap water.

 

[Weasel2017]

My CH was low from initial fill so I've been adding to get it up into the 200 range (just for heater). I havent been dropping my PH much below 7.5 with the MA in order to keep my CSI borderline. Anything under 7.5 drops me under -.6 slightly thus why I'm not making much headway on TA.

Will keep at it and monitor closely.

Thanks

 

[Oly]

Can you bypass your heater in the summer? Looking at your pool system only your heater is affected by a low CSI, correct?

 

[Weasel2017]

I havent plumbed it in for bypass yet as my last 3 way jandy was delayed and I wanted to get everything functional. Been playing with numbers in the old pool math and once my CH hits 220 as planned it should put me right around 0 on the chart. So that is likely more important than TA at the moment.

Thanks for mentioning the CSI as I was more focused on the individual numbers and tests not the overall combined picture.

 

[BowserB]

This thread made me wonder about my tap water, which is also the autofil water. We have a potassium based water softener. Our tap water pH is 7.7, CH is -0- (good news, since that's the main objective of a water softener--that and magnesium, but I can't test for that), but TA is 180. I checked TA twice, from two faucets after that first result. Made me wonder if that's normal for soft water, or if using potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride is the difference. I also wonder if the contradiction of the pH and TA are indicating a problem with my pH meter. I do calibrate it periodically but with calibration powder and distilled water. Or am I just looking for things to worry about? DPD test shows -0- FC and pH of 7.5.

 

[texasAUtiger]

Not unheard of… my fill water has TA of 300.

 

[HermanTX]

Made me wonder if that's normal for soft water, or if using potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride is the difference.

I use KCL in my water softener and there is no difference in TA for water going in (std city tap water) vs. at my inside tap.
As you say, the CH goes to zero after the water softener which is the purpose of the unit.