Montreal Salutes you

[fklash]

Hello everyone,

Great forum, I've read many threads since last fall, and I finally decided to join.

I'm a new pool owner of an above ground pool as of fall 2014. Got a good deal end of season, installed the pool last fall but haven't swam in it yet. I opened it early May, adjusted the parameters and I've been basically fine tuning and staring at it since because I can't be bothered to install the stairs into the pool, as I'm having a deck built first week of july at pool level (I'll install it then).

Here is a picture below. As you can see the only productive thing I did was dig up the lawn irrigation system so that the deck builder does not damage them when they drill in the foundations.



So here are my plans/thoughts/dreams/wishes/questions...

I went with ozonator and chlorinator for my sanitation system. (I've read the TFP threads about ozonators after I had bought it. I'm stuck with it so I'm going to use it). I'll have the pool open from early/mid May to mid/end of October, and I forecast the true swimming season will be June/July/August. Since we partially drain the pool for winter closing each year, I'm hoping that I can get away with using 3-inch Trichlor tabs throughout the swimming season without getting the Cyanuric acid levels above 50 (this will be my test year). The theory is that the ozonator will take part of the sanitation burden and will allow me to use less chlorine tabs, we'll see.
If my trichlor experiment turns out a failure, I'm not sure if I can sustain adding liquid chlorine daily. I will definitely try it (I've also read the threads about the Hasa pool Liquidator), but I forecast that I would end up upgrading to a salt water system. Only time will tell.

I have the Taylor K-2006 kit, and this is a great kit.
Here are my latest test results from tonight:

- pH 8 (acid demand 2 drops)
- Free cl = 0.8 (I've been usually able to maintain it between 1-2, I'm still experimenting with adjusting the chlorinator rate and how often to add tablets)
- Combined cl = zero
- TA = 110
- Calcium = 230
- Stabilizer = little less than 30 (I did have that tested at a pool store after I added some stabilizer, and it was 24 on June 10th) The store used to use Taylor, but they've switched to LaMotte WaterLink Spin lab.

My fine tuning has been mostly with pH and TA, as we've been having a lot rain in last few weeks. I do have a few questions about TA and pH adjustments, but I will create a new thread in the "getting started" section in the next few days as I need to get to bed.


fklash

 

[MarianParoo]

You may get some grief about the ozinator and chlorinator, but it sounds like you have read enough to expect that.... Sanitary pools need the correct ratio of CYA and FC. It is what it is.

For now, on FC/CC tests, use only 1 scoop of powder and use the 10 ml sample for testing as outlined on the inner lid of your test kit.

Get that pH lowered with MA.

 

[BoDarville]

Bienvenue au TFP!

Since you partially drain your pool each year, you do have some latitude in using trichlor pucks. As you said, this is a test year so I would still test CYA levels periodically which you should be able to do with the K-2006. May also be a good idea to keep some bleach on hand in case you need to supplement FC levels such as after a pool party.

As for pH and TA, I would focus on lowering pH to the range of 7.5 - 7.8 using Muriatic Acid (MA). The use of trichlor pucks will lower pH a bit so this will give you some headroom before you hit the floor of our recommended range of 7.2. Lowering pH with MA will also lower TA. TA is a buffer for pH. Think of pH as a channel selector and TA as a fine-tuning knob that brings the selected channel into proper focus. Once you get pH within the recommended range, see how stable it is. If pH remains relatively stable, then I would leave TA alone. If pH spikes up or down quickly, then you may want to adjust TA.

The theory is that the ozonator will take part of the sanitation burden and will allow me to use less chlorine tabs...

Just be aware that some ozonators (depending on how strong they are relative to the pool size) can cause an increase in chlorine demand. Just something to keep an eye on.

Based on the information in your post, it sounds like going with a SWG is the best plan for your pool in the long run.