MasterTemp 400 and intellivalve degree cam setting for bypass?

tomas21

Gold Supporter
Jan 24, 2020
234
California
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
For those using the newer MasterTemp 400 with a intellivalve wired to the bypass on the heater circuit board…. What setting do you have the intellivalve set to so there is always a little water flowing through the heater when the heater is no on?

Curious what number those set at to allow little flow through filter when no in active use.

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Hi Tomas.

I'll give your thread a little bump for fresh eyes.

Good luck!
Thanks.. just curious what cam setting customers set their inteillvalve to for the mastertemp heater ....

How much of an opening to allow a little water to always flow through heater.. 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10..... I'm toying with the idea if I can find the sweet spot and close it more I will get more flow to my IC60 and can run my pump RPM a little less to ensure the flow sensor on the IC60 is happy
 
Anyone have ideal cam setting on intellivalve when incorporated with heater... what degrees to allow just enough water to flow through heater at all times when not in use ?
 
Thanks. Looks like manual states home intellivalve setting is at 0 so full flow to heater when on and 7 when heater is off yet that is still a lot of flow going through heater. I was thinking more around 20 so most is bypassing heater to improve flow when heater isn’t in use.
 
Thanks. Looks like manual states home intellivalve setting is at 0 so full flow to heater when on and 7 when heater is off yet that is still a lot of flow going through heater. I was thinking more around 20 so most is bypassing heater to improve flow when heater isn’t in use.
I don’t have the intellivalve. I just have the standard actuator, so I just moved the cam forward a bit until I saw a little water pushing through the check valve. Sorry I can’t be more help.
 
I went through this a couple months back. I honestly think the Pentair instructions are in error. They have reasonable numbers, just in the wrong spots, and the plumbing diagram seems wrong to me.

I am running mine so that in bypass the valve sits at about 17. The point is that a small amount of water is always running through the heater to keep it fresh. I started with the valve at 24 (no heater flow) and then backed it off until the back flow valve coming out of the heater open up a bit.

When the the heat is on, the valve moves to 0, so that all the water goes through the heater.

Of course if you are plumbed the other side, the numbers become 24 and 7, rather than 0 and 17. These are the four numbers Pentair uses, but they pair 0,7 and 24,17. This makes zero sense to me. I would not be surprised at all to find out that some engineer wrote down the numbers (after careful and considered testing) and then they got transposed by the person who wrote the document. Having said that, my valve is not plumbed the way Pentair shows it. I don't know how a T Diverter valve can work the way they show - normally I would expect the input (in this case the cold water from the filter) should flow into the center port, and that is they way I have mine plumbed.

This has been running a couple of months now and seems to work well. I have the same cooldown issue that others have reported, but when the valve is in the diverting position, the pump runs significantly less RPMS that when the heater is on/valve is fully diverting. Note that I use constant GPM on my pump so in "neutral" I am always running just enough flow to keep the SWG flow switch open. You can really hear the pump RPMs step up just before the heater comes on.

Dale
 
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