Is my Hayward T-9 SWG dying?

[Sean_T]

Last year, the forum helped me know that my SWG was working by the diagnostics. I just needed to start the pool season with a SLAM and we were good all summer. This year, I started off with a SLAM, the pool is crystal clear, and I have turned the SWG back on. The power and generating lights are ON. Nothing else is on. The diagnostics don't look so great, but I would appreciate it if someone could confirm.

The cell is T-9 from 2014

3000
68
27.9
2.14
100p
-1700
AL-0
r 1.59
t-9

 

[mguzzy]

What makes you think it's dying? in normal operation the power and generating light are the only ones that are lit on the controller. What is your % set at? And does your measured salinity match the salinity detected by the controller?

 

[Sean_T]

What makes you think it's dying? in normal operation the power and generating light are the only ones that are lit on the controller. What is your % set at? And does your measured salinity match the salinity detected by the controller?

I'm concerned because the amps are currently 2.14 and are ideally between 2.3 and 6.7 when the cell is producing. The voltage is 27.9 and would ideally be between 22-26. The instant salinity seems way off compared to the average and I have not added salt. This along with the cell's age.

 

[mguzzy]

The instant salinity is just that,,, the instant value. The average salinity is the average of all the instant salinity readings since it was last reset. If this is the first time you have turned it on this season, you may have lost a lot of salt to dilution. But the best thing to do is to test your salinity and compare. You are probably seeing the average salinity that includes last year salinity readings. Check your manual on how to reset the average salinity. (see belowl) The easiest way to see if it is producing is to check the FC from a return jet and compare it to the FC in the main pool.

Here it isL
To "update" the Salt Display to the Instant Salinity value
1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "-xxxx ppm" appears on the display.
3. Slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto".
4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

 

[Sean_T]

The instant salinity is just that,,, the instant value. The average salinity is the average of all the instant salinity readings since it was last reset. If this is the first time you have turned it on this season, you may have lost a lot of salt to dilution. But the best thing to do is to test your salinity and compare. You are probably seeing the average salinity that includes last year salinity readings. Check your manual on how to reset the average salinity. (see belowl) The easiest way to see if it is producing is to check the FC from a return jet and compare it to the FC in the main pool.

Here it isL
To "update" the Salt Display to the Instant Salinity value
1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "-xxxx ppm" appears on the display.
3. Slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto".
4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

Thanks. I had already reset it. I have some reagents on the way for doing my own test as you suggested.

I like your suggestion of comparing the water out of the return with the main pool! Will do that.

 

[mguzzy]

I like your suggestion of comparing the water out of the return with the main pool! Will do that.

Also I should say, when you do this make sure you are in a generating cycle by checking that there is a instant salinity reading. If the value is zero its not producing at that point of the cycle. Just restart the controller and it will start off whit the generating phase of the cycle.
(sshh... don't tell anybody... this is one of the things I use test strips for... not for the value, but to see if there is production from my SWG. I just stick a strip in front of the return.. if the color deepens on the strip.. its making Cl... )