How to cap pressure side return at pump

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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
848
Livermore, CA
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi TFP'ers,
I hope everyone is enjoying the early start of Spring.

Ordered my new solar blanket yesterday, and turned on solar to try things out after the Fall. Well, I will say that things are not how I left them. What's new is that we have a new surface and 5 return eyeballs, and a new eyeball on the return for a pressure side cleaner. The cleaner is obsolete as we use a Maytronics S200. You'll see in the pic what I did years back and it worked. I have the connection hose going from just after the filter and connected it to the pressure side return. It works and it did not take too much away from the our thermal solar.

With my Hayward Maxflo 1.5 hp VSP sp2302 I was able to run that at 2200 RPM which would be enough to maintain prime and keep things happy. When solar was off, and at night, I was even able to run the pump at 900 RPM to keep a minimal circulation. It was great, only used like 49 watts if I recall right.

Anyhow, now with new surface, new larger eyeballs on every return (5) and the return for the old pressure side cleaner, I have noticed I don't get the best flow/what I used to get at the returns in the shallow end, and the one return to the left of the pressure side return. The returns at the shallow end are farthest from my pool equipment. I am surprised the return to the left of my pressure side return barely gets any water flow. All this is despite having running my pump at 1500 RPM during this off season/winter since the pool was done (~Dec. 2018). So, just yesterday, even at 3000 RPM, that was not enough to maintain prime for my thermal solar. The water flow from the pressure side return was going like crazy, but the return to its left and the two in the shallow end were not significantly noticeable. Remember this was with the thermal solar on. I have a Flow-Vis valve, and I believe it was showing about 25 -27 GPM on 3000 RPM with thermal solar on. Previously (old surface), old eyeballs, and even with that hose connected to return directly to the pressure side return, I was able to prime the solar and keep adequate flow at 2200 RPM, which was about 28+ GPM.

So, here is my plan, cap the pressure side return. That way I'll keep all flow to the solar. Step 2 if the aforementioned doesn't work is to replace the eyeballs with the smaller diameter ones. Thoughts?

Problem is though, how do I cap the pressure side pipe sticking out of the ground, and then plug the hole where that hose is attached to? What do I need? Use? Etc.?

And, is not having any water flow going through that pressure side return a problem? Would not I want some flow going through there?

The pressure side return is that pipe closest to the Flo-Vis valve.
47415386271_61354d324e_c.jpg


Old return eyeball. You can see the smaller diameter eyeball that was in the middle. Eyeballs now are don't have that inner disc, so-to-speak.
47415385831_f4fe689dea_c.jpg


Previously, the return eyeball for the pressure side return was actually just the Universal Wall Fitting with the red disc in the middle. With the flow restrictor disc in, the water flow coming out of it was relatively similar to that coming from the other returns.
 
We'll, I think I need something like this:
https://www.supply.com/s/sch40-female-cap.html?tsquery=sch40 female cap&tsmapped=n

and

https://www.supply.com/s/sch40-male-plug.html?tsquery=sch40 male plug&tsmapped=n

This way, it would at least address the cleaner return as I could plug the hole on the line, and essentially could cap the end of the tubing. The tubing could just stay in place, as it would be capped.

Only thing with this is if it is okay to cut-off all water flow going through that return. Is that okay? No water flow through that return?
 
It's fine to cap that and then cap off in pool. The new surface isn't a problem ita your eyeballs. If this worked last year the only changes are the size of holes. You aren't building pressure and you are free flowing. Simply swap the old eyeballs in for a experiment and I think you will be surprised that it works like it used to. That's me relying on your info that no plumbing was changed or piping otherwise. Remember anytime in future you cap something off you need to cap off the pool as well otherwise algae a d yuckies will hide inside the open line
 
Tx Jimmy. No plumbing was changed during the resurface; only surface, tile, and changed to a channel main drain cover.

I decided to trim the red flow restrictor disc from the Polaris Universal Wall Fitting to make it fit in the eyeball for the pressure return. Got it sized right, adhered it w/ some JB Weld 1 min. epoxy, and bam, I now have a flow coming from that pressure return equivalent to what it was previously. Just through making this change, I was able to keep the solar primed, albeit at 400 RPM faster than previously (2600 RPM vs. 2200 RPM).

So, I don't think I want to completely stop the flow from this pressure return for the reason(s) you stated Jimmy... I don't need things growing in there. I never would have thought about capping at the wall though as you outlined. I actually wouldn't know if I could find a Sch. 40 female threaded cap to go over that pressure side return. It has a very short section of threads. However, I don't need to sweat this as again, I am good w/ the flow restricted like this even if it is at the cost of having to run my pump faster by 400 RPM.

The other thing, we signed a contract a few months back to go with photovoltaic solar. With that transition, it would not be a big deal even if I just left this matter and called it good at my new baseline of 2600 RPM to run the thermal solar as the difference it electricity usage/cost at 2600 RPM vs. 2200 RPM is not exorbitant. However, despite transitioning to PV solar, I am still awaiting the project mgr. from Burkett's Pool Plastering to locate and swap out my return eyeballs (minus the pressure return) to the narrower diameter eyeball.
 
good job sounds like you got things improved. you could try a smaller opening in that line, even a pencil sized opening will keep water moving. as to the higher speed, check you filter to be sure its clean and not restricting. they make inside plugs to that expand inside the pipe. you could try that as an experiment to see if that would get you back to the lower speed on the pump
 
Tx again Jimmy.

I like your idea. However, I have to find a way to dislodge/remove the red restrictor disc I just secured in the eyeball cover. Not sure how easy it will be to break that JB Weld.

Inside plugs? Would it be that I need to find a Sch. 40 solid disc/washer even smaller and fit it to size in that eyeball return cover and then just drill a tiny hole in it?

That may work and prevent the hassle of having to swap out the 5 other return eyeballs for a narrower diameter.

As for the filters, I last cleaned them during my startup. And at that, I think I had cleaned them on Day 7 or 10. They were not as bad as I imagined, perhaps due to opting for an aggregrate Wet Edge surface vs. white plaster. So, the dust issue was not really apparent and I did not visibly see a lot of debris/residue being rinsed off the filters at that time.

However, it is that time of year for me to clean the filters prior to swim season. I typically clean my cartridges pre/post season. That may help a little, but I'd be surprised if clean filters would equate to a 400 RPM decrease. But, I am all for experimenting.
 
They do make winter plugs to cap your eyeballs, you can get a few and cap some returns and play around with the flow. Put in some ping pong balls into the pool too see how surface flow is doing and if you like it. If you do end up semi permanent capping a line you can cap it dry or wet, using a shop vac on blow to clear the fluid out if the line and then installing a plug while blowing air, or cap it wet in the pool and pour some bleach in the line and cap it on the pad.
 
im talking about winterization type plugs like this for example

https://www.activepoolsupply.com/pr...MI_Pjm8smg4QIVhYjICh2alQvbEAQYBSABEgK7N_D_BwE

just like above poster recommended. what kind of threads are on the fitting you JB welded? as long as there are threads you can get it to seal with sealant or even a 3M marine product. If the flow from that fitting is disrupting the rest of the system even 400rpms worth Id cap it and be done with it or plug it. no need for anything sch40 to place inside it, the only difference in sch40 fittings is the depth the pipe goes in for glueing, they are twice as deep for added strength and surface area for the glue to solvent and bond. otherwise they are the same thing basically
 
So I decided to put a plug in the eyeball fitting. I was able to find something at Home Depot. It’s not schedule 40 but rather DWV (drain waste vent) plastic. I put a very tiny hole in it with a nail. So this way water is still flowing through.

It works great. I feel no water leaking out the sides or anywhere except just the small hole I put in. It did help and I felt an increase in pressure at all of the eyeballs. However, I still have to run the solar that actually 500 rpm’s greater to keep the system happy. Hence I realize I do need smaller eyeballs at the jets. The pool resurfacing contractor stated that they would see if they can find some smaller diameter eyeballs.

The DWV plastic is not the same strength as schedule 40, but it’s holding up to the pressure. I have extras on hand if it becomes problematic.

I’m tempted just to leave it. Good enough is good enough. But, do you think I should look around for the smaller eyeball return jets?


 
It threaded? If so that thing will last a long time. The real problem with Dwv fittings is the slip joint is shorter causing leaks later.

I didn't take the time to reread the thread but you capped a return to a trickle to help other eyeballs and keep the water flowing, good job!
 

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Yes, the DWV cap fits perfectly inside the threaded fitting which goes on the return jet. Remember, this is the return for a pressure sided cleaner; so it’s threaded.


I’m getting great water flow everywhere. So even if it’s costing me higher rpm’s to keep the solar happy, maybe I don’t really need the smaller eyeballs at the five returns.

Thanks for your help.
 
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