Hey all
Avid TFP reader here, not much for posting. But I'm definitely looking for advice that I'm struggling to find in the forums.
Recently I installed a Fibropool FH-285 but have been struggling to dial it in. My setup is 13,500 gallons in-ground plaster. 2hp single speed hayward and fns 60 DE filter. Most piping is 1.5" though the filter used to be totally 2" and reduced down at the intake/returns. Clean filter runs about 14-15psi and the pool receives open sun pretty much all day, fluctuating water temperatures aren't uncommon. Post-installation the pressure is about 20psi with all valves open.
After installing the pump and running for 24 hours, I'm wondering if my expectations are too high, or reasonable based on the current weather. Two concerns I've got are dialing in the appropriate water flow and whether or not the elbows at the HP inlet/outlet are working against me.
I'll start with the easier question. Scouring for information I found a tutorial that recommended a minimum of 6" straight pipe at the unions before turning, but didn't provide the 'why'. I stumbled on this post-installation of course. Can anyone confirm the legitimacy, or if the quick friction could cause a lot of heat loss?
Harder question I've wrestled with last night and today.. Because of the strong pump I've been adjusting the inlet/outlet on the HP to limit the flow. Assuming dumping the water too quickly won't heat efficiently. The HP is rated around 28GPM and I believe my pump is around 65 GPM with ~60ft TH. I don't know the actual value and am using 60ft as a common baseline.
Fall temps right now are high 70's - 80's during the day and mid 50's at night. Last night the water was about 68 degrees and after running all night it raised about 1 degree.
Adjusting the valves in different combinations yields:
bypass open, HP inlet half open, HP outlet open ~5 degree difference in output temperature
bypass open, HP inlet 1/8 open, HP outlet 1/2 open ~21 degree difference in output temperature
(the control panel reports in 2 degree increments so these readings are give or take)
The gas pressure is running around 3.5 with higher outputs and the fan is pump out cold air.
After running for 24 hours full blast, the water temp has increased 5 degrees but has also been sitting in full sun all day.
Hoping for some guidance or best practice recommendations. I'm also considering installing a check valve on the output side. I believe the bypass water flow could be causing an issue but can't confirm. Trial and error if I cut and install the check valve.
Avid TFP reader here, not much for posting. But I'm definitely looking for advice that I'm struggling to find in the forums.
Recently I installed a Fibropool FH-285 but have been struggling to dial it in. My setup is 13,500 gallons in-ground plaster. 2hp single speed hayward and fns 60 DE filter. Most piping is 1.5" though the filter used to be totally 2" and reduced down at the intake/returns. Clean filter runs about 14-15psi and the pool receives open sun pretty much all day, fluctuating water temperatures aren't uncommon. Post-installation the pressure is about 20psi with all valves open.
After installing the pump and running for 24 hours, I'm wondering if my expectations are too high, or reasonable based on the current weather. Two concerns I've got are dialing in the appropriate water flow and whether or not the elbows at the HP inlet/outlet are working against me.
I'll start with the easier question. Scouring for information I found a tutorial that recommended a minimum of 6" straight pipe at the unions before turning, but didn't provide the 'why'. I stumbled on this post-installation of course. Can anyone confirm the legitimacy, or if the quick friction could cause a lot of heat loss?
Harder question I've wrestled with last night and today.. Because of the strong pump I've been adjusting the inlet/outlet on the HP to limit the flow. Assuming dumping the water too quickly won't heat efficiently. The HP is rated around 28GPM and I believe my pump is around 65 GPM with ~60ft TH. I don't know the actual value and am using 60ft as a common baseline.
Fall temps right now are high 70's - 80's during the day and mid 50's at night. Last night the water was about 68 degrees and after running all night it raised about 1 degree.
Adjusting the valves in different combinations yields:
bypass open, HP inlet half open, HP outlet open ~5 degree difference in output temperature
bypass open, HP inlet 1/8 open, HP outlet 1/2 open ~21 degree difference in output temperature
(the control panel reports in 2 degree increments so these readings are give or take)
The gas pressure is running around 3.5 with higher outputs and the fan is pump out cold air.
After running for 24 hours full blast, the water temp has increased 5 degrees but has also been sitting in full sun all day.
Hoping for some guidance or best practice recommendations. I'm also considering installing a check valve on the output side. I believe the bypass water flow could be causing an issue but can't confirm. Trial and error if I cut and install the check valve.
