Hayward Propane Heater - Electrical

[ukchris]

It seems to be quite the task but my new heater is almost installed, it is plumbed in, propane connected, all I need is electrical. The manual seems very brief on this, as it is a propane heater my understanding is it takes (as delivered) 240/220, there are three connectors under the hatch, two hot and a neutral, there looks to be a separate ground connector.

I have some 12/3 cable and flexible conduit, my plan is to tab off the switch for the pump, run through the conduit to the heater. I am assuming that once I open the switch there will be two switched hot wires coming through a two pole switch then a neutral and ground. So I splice in to each one on the pump side, run my conduit, attach to L1, L2, N, and Ground and I'm good to go - right?

When I was buying the cable there was some debate with the home depot associates about what is needed for "220/240", as I understand it the current draw is very low (less than an amp) and it is essentially two 110v hot wires not one 220v - as such the 12/3 should be fine - am I correct?

I'd appreciate some validation before I start

Thanks in advance,

Chris.

 

[ukchris]

Well, I'm a little perplexed. The switch for the pump has three wires coming in, two hot and another. The "other" is connected to the ground screw on the two pole switch and the ground screw on the one gang box.

So I spliced off each on the switched side, two hot and one ground, ran these to the heater and attached as the manual says to L1, L2 and Ground. When I turn it on the breaker trips immediately.

Disconnected from the heater and the pump runs fine, both "hots" to the heater read as live, what did I miss?

It looks like rain so I've packed it all up for tonight, the only things I didn't check are if the jumper is set for 220/240 (it says it comes set that way) and I'm not sure why there's a separate green ground screw by the connectors that isn't mentioned in the manual.

I don't have a bonding wire connected at the moment, I realize I need to but would not having one for now cause this? As there are notes on this not always having been code I figured I could at least try it out without - does not having a bonding wire cause it to trip?

Any help much appreciated!

 

[kadavis]

Which model heater do you have

 

[ukchris]

It’s a brand new 400k BYU Propane H400FDP

 

[danpik]

240 does not use a neutral. The minus portion of the sine wave acts as the neutral for the opposite leg. Are you sure the heater is configured for 240. It may be able to be used for 120 or 240 but there will be a specific wiring scheme for each. Per code, you can not use "romex" (ie... NMB, UF, 12-3 etc) type wire to wire any pool equipment. Al ground wires must be insulated. Jackets of romex type cables are not considered insulating.

not having a bonding wire will not cause the breaker to trip. Bonding is a completely separate electrical issue that does need to be connected.

Dan

 

[ukchris]

Thanks Dan, all I could get today was 12/3, that was about the best in offer at Home Depot - are you saying that’s not suitable when according to the book it draws less than an amp?

There are three terminals labeled L1, L2, G when used with 240, there is a jumper on the main board which switches the setup between 110 and 240 - it is supposed to come set at 240 but I need to check.

I‘M puzzles as to what I could have wrong, I only have three wires in the switch, I know which two are hot and have them hooked to the hot contacts - unless it’s set for 110 for some reason?

if not Romex what should I get? Any advice appreciated. I thought it curious that my “professionally installed” pump has stranded cable to the switch then solid from the switch to the pump, neither of which seem as sturdy as the 12/3 I was/am using.

 

[danpik]

I don't have my NEC book home with me but, the code states that the ground wires in a pool circuit must be insulated. This basically prohibits the use of Romex style cables. I would then use, as most do, either a rigid type of conduit or a "iiquidtight" type of flex conduit with individual THWN wires the appropriate colors. I can pretty much guarantee the solid wire from the switch to the pump was pulled from a romex jacket. This is a code violation as well as the wire is not listed for use outside of the jacket as it has no identifying marks on it to tell the next guy what it is or if it is suitable for the location it is being used in.

also, not sure what article in the NEC it is right off the top of my head but, If that is truly a 240 circuit, you may be in violation if you add another item to the circuit without properly separating them with a sub panel.

Dan

 

[ukchris]

While I did get romex it is 12/3 so I’m not using the bare ground but the three insulated cores - does that make a difference? It’s runnning through flexible weatherproof conduit (devil of a job getting the cable through the conduit!).

i think you’re saying to but some rolls of single core THWN (?) instead?

But... when all’s said and done would that cause my breaker to trip? I want the wiring right of course but would like to at least verify if it works first if at all possible. Heading out to check the 120/240 setup now.