First time testing water using TFP kit - help

[Riddler0520]

New pool
PB just turned it over to us after adding salt last weekend

Got the test kit out
only 3 tests so far (chlorine, PH and alkalinity)

maybe it’s an acquired skill but the color matching is difficult

The alkalinity seemed to take 11-12 drop for the water to turn dark pink/red which is a high reading for saltwater

pH looks to be on the high side - >8.2
chlorine - I can’t really tell

Pool Math app if I read the readings right say to add 3 quarts of acid ? Is that right to you ?

also, which test measures the free chlorine level - is that the drop test I did ?

thoughts ?

 

[Newdude]

Hey Riddler !!! The 120 TA is fine for now. You need a couple cycles of lowering the PH to 7.2 and aerating it back up to 7.8. Each cycle should drop the TA by 10ish. It takes time and will not happen quickly. And it’s ok in the meantime.

the ‘block’ chlorine test is pretty inaccurate and is only meant to prove that, yes. You have chlorine. Taylor themselves states anything over 3 is a crudshoot for exact accuracy, and at 1 it has a .5 accuracy (meaning .5-1.5) and at 2 it has a +/- 1 accuracy (meaning 1-3). So yeah. It won’t tell you much other than there is some chlorine in there. Really really yellow means you probably have enough FC. But to find out *how* much you need the DPD powder test. Did you get the Tf-100 or the 2006? With some of the 06’s you have to buy the powder test separately.

Pool Math app if I read the readings right say to add 3 quarts of acid ? Is that right to you

If the app is configured right for gallons/type then yes.

 

[Riddler0520]

Hey Riddler !!! The 120 TA is fine for now. You need a couple cycles of lowering the PH to 7.2 and aerating it back up to 7.8. Each cycle should drop the TA by 10ish. It takes time and will not happen quickly. And it’s ok in the meantime.

the ‘block’ chlorine test is pretty inaccurate and is only meant to prove that, yes. You have chlorine. Taylor themselves states anything over 3 is a crudshoot for exact accuracy, and at 1 it has a .5 accuracy (meaning .5-1.5) and at 2 it has a +/- 1 accuracy (meaning 1-3). So yeah. It won’t tell you much other than there is some chlorine in there. Really really yellow means you probably have enough FC. But to find out *how* much you need the DPD powder test. Did you get the Tf-100 or the 2006? With some of the 06’s you have to buy the powder test separately.

If the app is configured right for gallons/type then yes.

Thanks @Newdude
I have the TFP100 which looks like a chemistry set - ha

I did see the separate test with the R-0871 reagent and DPD powder but haven’t tried that yet

assume that test is what tells me a better reading omy FC level vs the block test

that block test - is PH accurate enough to make decisions from ?

the alkalinity test was pretty straight forward - going to try using the speed stir next time

haven’t tested CYA yet - will do that today

salt cell is at at 40%, PB says to increase it as weather warms up but don’t go above 60%, does that sound right ?
How accurate is the salt reading of 3100, do I still need to be testing the salt levels ?

thanks for your help

 

[Teald024]

I have the TFP100 which looks like a chemistry set - ha

It is a chemistry set! Lol

I did see the separate test with the R-0871 reagent and DPD powder but haven’t tried that yet

assume that test is what tells me a better reading of my FC level vs the block test

The 871 and powder are part of the FAS-DPD test. It is very accurate at finding the FC level up to 50ppm. This is the test you should be using daily to check your chlorine level

that block test - is PH accurate enough to make decisions from ?

yes this pH test is good. Basically you’re looking for where on the pH scale you are. Being super accurate isn’t necessary in this test. From low pH to high pH it goes orange, yellow, pink, then purple. Pick one of those colors and match it to the scale to find your pH.

salt cell is at at 40%, PB says to increase it as weather warms up but don’t go above 60%, does that sound right ?

Ignore this advice from the PB. The PB has no idea how much Chlorine is in your water and what it takes to get to where you need to be. Adjust the cell output and pump run time to generate the amount of corn you need. Follow theFC/CYA Levels

How accurate is the salt reading of 3100, do I still need to be testing the salt levels ?

If this reading is from the salt cell then it is mildly accurate. But do not add salt based on this number alone. You should use a salt test kit to find your actual salt levels before you add salt to the water. However as long as the cell is happy, then you don’t need to do anything.

 

[Newdude]

I did see the separate test with the R-0871 reagent and DPD powder but haven’t tried that yet

Try it.

assume that test is what tells me a better reading omy FC level vs the block test

Yes the powder test is the way to go.

that block test - is PH accurate enough to make decisions from ?

Yes. Use the PH side of the block. It’s hard to read at times for all of us, But if the pink is close enough pink to possibly get it wrong between 7.8 and 8, Lower the PH.

the alkalinity test was pretty straight forward - going to try using the speed stir next time

The speed stir is heavenly for ALL the tests. You’ll love it. For TA the new bottle has a static charge and doesn’t drop right at first. Wipe it like it says between drops the first several tests. After that you can just drop away without wiping.

haven’t tested CYA yet - will do that today

Fill to a 10 line and take a quick glance with the sun to your back. If you see it right away, fill to the next 10 line and try again. But if you state for more than a second, your brain will see it whether or not you can see it. Quick look and move on one way or the other.

salt cell is at at 40%, PB says to increase it as weather warms up but don’t go above 60%, does that sound right ?

Trail and error and we’ll get there in time. Every pool and their environment are different. For now start at 40 and keep tabs on it to see how it responds.

How accurate is the salt reading of 3100, do I still need to be testing the salt levels ?

If the cell/controller is happy then that’s all you need.

 

[Newdude]

@Teald024 ......... twinsies ^^^^^.

 

[Riddler0520]

It is a chemistry set! Lol



The 871 and powder are part of the FAS-DPD test. It is very accurate at finding the FC level up to 50ppm. This is the test you should be using daily to check your chlorine level




yes this pH test is good. Basically you’re looking for where on the pH scale you are. Being super accurate isn’t necessary in this test. From low pH to high pH it goes orange, yellow, pink, then purple. Pick one of those colors and match it to the scale to find your pH.



Ignore this advice from the PB. The PB has no idea how much Chlorine is in your water and what it takes to get to where you need to be. Adjust the cell output and pump run time to generate the amount of corn you need. Follow theFC/CYA Levels



If this reading is from the salt cell then it is mildly accurate. But do not add salt based on this number alone. You should use a salt test kit to find your actual salt levels before you add salt to the water. However as long as the cell is happy, then you don’t need to do anything.

Thank you
Very helpful

I’ll try the FAS-DPD test tonight and get comfortable with it - really DAILY ? They don’t give a lot of powder in that small circular container

good advice on the PH reading and generally what to look for - that test is super easy

I’m continuing t read and re-read all the material on this forum but I learn better applying

Q: I need to buy some Acid and CYA, is Lowe’s or Home Depot a good place for that
I saw in the Pool Math app that Acid has diff %’s.... does it really matter or just buy what’s at the store

is it buy as you need it or can you buy and keep some on hand for some period of time ? Not sure of shelf life

if PH is a range and the pool math app asks for an exact reading to suggest what you need to add - if you are unsure, should you default to the higher PH range or lower (in that color shade) hope that makes sense


Thanks everyone

 

[Newdude]

I need to buy some Acid and CYA, is Lowe’s or Home Depot a good place for that

Yes. The CYA (or stabilizer) is in the pool section in a bag or jug. Verify its 100% cyanuric acid

The MA will be in the pool section and also the paint section. If the bottle says green, eco, or low fume it's half strength. So you'll need double. You'll have to Google whatever they have to see the strengths. They usually don't list it on the bottle at HD/Lowes.

does it really matter or just buy what’s at the store

Have Google ready (for the strength and pool math to let you know how much to buy). The watered down stuff is nicer to handle and at $10-$14 a jug won't neccesarily break the bank buying 2X as much.

Stand upwind of where you are pouring and do it slowly. Wear gloves/goggles/glasses but no face mask. The mask will stop just enough of the fumes to trick you into thinking you aren't sucking in the bad stuff. In this instance the fumes are your friend to let you know you are doing it wrong.

 

[Teald024]

FC and pH test daily to start. It’ll get you used to the testing and get you to know your pools appetite for chlorine. And to get your SWG dialed in. Once you start to be able to predict the FC test results, you can cut back on the frequency of testing. Since you have a SWG, you will likely start testing once or twice a week plus after a major event like a party or big storm.

 

[Riddler0520]

Yes. The CYA (or stabilizer) is in the pool section in a bag or jug. Verify its 100% cyanuric acid

The MA will be in the pool section and also the paint section. If the bottle says green, eco, or low fume it's half strength. So you'll need double. You'll have to Google whatever they have to see the strengths. They usually don't list it on the bottle at HD/Lowes.

Have Google ready (for the strength and pool math to let you know how much to buy). The watered down stuff is nicer to handle and at $10-$14 a jug won't neccesarily break the bank buying 2X as much.

Stand upwind of where you are pouring and do it slowly. Wear gloves/goggles/glasses but no face mask. The mask will stop just enough of the fumes to trick you into thinking you aren't sucking in the bad stuff. In this instance the fumes are your friend to let you know you are doing it wrong.

Great tips - thanks

just did the FC powder test
That wasn’t so bad
10 ml of water and it turned pink
It took 5 drops to turn clear so = FC of 2.5 which reads as in range
I can do that test daily

when do I care about doing the combined chlorine test ?

did the CYA test as well
When looking down the tube it was at about 60 when I could no longer see the black dot - I could faintly see a dark spot but even when I poured in all the solution, that stayed the same so I assume it’s when the dot got out of focus and the water/cloudiness hid it - in this case about at 60

Also - on the PH section of the Pool Math app when you plug in your FC and PH it also asks for a Borates #, is that important when determine how much acid to add or just leave blank ?

 

[Newdude]

when do I care about doing the combined chlorine test ?

It's easy to do everytime. When you do it, add the drops and check for color immediately. If it's clear, dump it and move on. If you let it sit for a bit it goes pink again and will send you on a wild goose chase.

When/why you care about them is it is your early warning system that something is eating your chlorine. (Or vice versa). You usually can't see algae until its beyond too late. It grows exponentially and once you see it, it's gonna be a fight. Looking for an abnormal FC drop, and backing it up with 1 CC or more, tips you off to trouble brewing. SLAMing before it gets bad can be done at times in 24 hours and not a week or two.

 

[Riddler0520]

FC and pH test daily to start. It’ll get you used to the testing and get you to know your pools appetite for chlorine. And to get your SWG dialed in. Once you start to be able to predict the FC test results, you can cut back on the frequency of testing. Since you have a SWG, you will likely start testing once or twice a week plus after a major event like a party or big storm.

Thank you - I will do daily so I can get comfortable with the tests
Seems like FC, PH daily and then Alkalinity and CYA a few times a week - good routine to start ?

 

[Newdude]

Also - on the PH section of the Pool Math app when you plug in your FC and PH it also asks for a Borates #, is that important when determine how much acid to add or just leave blank

If you aren't using them, go into settings and untrack them. It will go away on the rest of the app

 

[Newdude]

Alkalinity and CYA a few times a week - good routine to start ?

Ph and FC daily. CYA and TA is monthly once you get used to the pool, practice it weekly for now until you feel comfortable with it.

 

[Riddler0520]

It's easy to do everytime. When you do it, add the drops and check for color immediately. If it's clear, dump it and move on. If you let it sit for a bit it goes pink again and will send you on a wild goose chase.

When/why you care about them is it is your early warning system that something is eating your chlorine. (Or vice versa). You usually can't see algae until its beyond too late. It grows exponentially and once you see it, it's gonna be a fight. Looking for an abnormal FC drop, and backing it up with 1 CC or more, tips you off to trouble brewing. SLAMing before it gets bad can be done at times in 24 hours and not a week or two.

I found myself going to the pool to collect water for whatever test I was doing at the moment - 3/4 tests meant 3-4 trips to the pool and sticking my arm down 18”

do you all use a different collection container and just grab enough water and bring back to the table and just squirt out what you need for each test - 1 trip to the pool to collect ? or is that not recommended?

also wonder wonder in the winter how you collect the water if it is really cold

sure there are some insider tips

that’s enough Q for today - until next time

 

[Newdude]

do you all use a different collection container and just grab enough water and bring back to the table and just squirt out what you need for each test

Yup. Any non glass container will work. Glass is forbidden by the pool. Its written in TFP stone. Sorry I don't make the rules.

I LOVE the CYA test squirter when I don't need it for CYA testing. It holds enough to do the FC/PH and maybe a 3rd test. The dropper tip allows fine drops to nail the 10ml or 25ml mark on the vial with ease.

also wonder wonder in the winter how you collect the water if it is really cold

Pull a corner from the cover and reach in every 2-3 months.

that’s enough Q for today - until next time

Rest up, there's a new day tomorrow. Each day it sinks in a little more. You're doing awesome!!!!

 

[Teald024]

What said...

 

[Riddler0520]

Q
Got some muriatic acid and stabilizer today

what measuring device do you use to measure out and pour the acid ?

Also it 31.5% which isn’t an option on the pool math app ?

 

[Newdude]

I always eyeballed the jug as I usually needed most of it. It only has to be close and a few ounces one way or the other won’t matter.

Many folks use plastic measuring cups / quarts too.

 

[Riddler0520]

I always eyeballed the jug as I usually needed most of it. It only has to be close and a few ounces one way or the other won’t matter.

Many folks use plastic measuring cups / quarts too.

Good deal
Thank you - the pool math app is pretty precise with what’s needed so was wondering if I could just eye ball it