First post- tips on fixing pool

[unmanifest]

Hi - I'm so glad I found TFP (thanks to all of you folks!) last week after I decided to stop my pool guy and do it myself (about 4 weeks ago). I got a solar blanket for the pool and he said that he wouldn't service unless I removed the blanket every week before he showed up. To avoid the hassle, I decided to try it myself. I got my water tested by Leslie's (about a week ago) and they told me the CYA levels were high. Since then I did nothing to the pool while I tried to read up on TFP. I've read the basic articles on water chemistry, test kits, pool care etc. and got myself a Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD kit. I did one test today and feel like I should start fixing the water chemistry. But I have some questions on starting it right. Hope you experts can educate me.

From a test I did this morning, my chlorine is 0 (FC) (which I expect since I've not added any in almost 10 days). pH is high - ~8 (matches the Leslie's). Alkalanity is ~100 (Leslie's said 120). CYA per my test was above 100 (Leslie said 120). CH is 350 per Leslie - I got lazy and didn't check that today. I have some algae growing since the pool has been sitting (covered) at ~80-90F with almost no chlorine. The algae levels are really low though - but definitely more than 0. I removed the cover today and decided to start the TFP method - plan to address CYA first, pH second, them SLAM the pool. Is that the right order and what is the procedure? I've started to drain (partial) the pool to lower CYA. Once the drain (about a 1/3) is complete, I am thinking I should refill, adjust pH and then SLAM. The chlorine I have now (after TFP) is KemTek SodiumHypoChlorite based liquid (~10% strength). Also, any tips on the FC/CC test w/ the Taylor kit? I'm not sure I understand it correctly.

Is the above the recommended approach? Should I be changing what I'm doing. Thanks for any tips!

 

[zea3]

Hi, welcome to TFP! I would say you are on the right track. Lower the CYA first, then retest and adjust values if needed. If pH is still high lower it with muriatic acid, then raise the chlorine level. If you still see algae you will need to complete the SLAM Process process.

 

[unmanifest]

Hi, welcome to TFP! I would say you are on the right track. Lower the CYA first, then retest and adjust values if needed. If pH is still high lower it with muriatic acid, then raise the chlorine level. If you still see algae you will need to complete the SLAM Process process.

Thanks. The draining fixed the CYA and CH levels. I lowered the pH and completed the SLAM process. I used Cal Hypo since the CH was fairly low after the drain/refill (almost 200-225). Now my FC levels have started to drift down to about 6-7, CH is about 275. CYA is about 40. Question I have is - why is the pH still off - seems high - closer to 8. I understand per TFP that pH is unreliable during the SLAM process but now that FC levels are lot lower why is the pH off? Do I need to adjust again or will it automatically get better as FC decreases?

 

[Mr Bruce]

From now on can you post a full test using the Taylor 2006 like this:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Completely ignore the pool store test, they are unreliable at best. If your pH is near 8 then you can lower it with acid. Most pools have gradually rising pH, it is normal. Lowering TA can help.

 

[zea3]

You will need to use Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down. Some fill water is naturally high in pH, some pools have water features that splash and break up the surface of the water. The splashing aerates the water and drives up pH. If you have waterfalls, fountains, shear descents, bubblers, ect... that you run whenever the pump is on your pH will rise over time. Regular additions of MA will knock it back down.

Also if your TA is high that may push pH to rise. If you don't have a lot of splashing going on check the TA level. We usually only adjust TA if it is causing the pH to be unstable.

 

[unmanifest]

You will need to use Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down. Some fill water is naturally high in pH, some pools have water features that splash and break up the surface of the water. The splashing aerates the water and drives up pH. If you have waterfalls, fountains, shear descents, bubblers, ect... that you run whenever the pump is on your pH will rise over time. Regular additions of MA will knock it back down.

Also if your TA is high that may push pH to rise. If you don't have a lot of splashing going on check the TA level. We usually only adjust TA if it is causing the pH to be unstable.

Hi zea3 and others:

Here are the numbers using the Taylor K2006 kit:
FC: 5
CC: 0
CYA: 40
TA: 100
CH: 250-275 (somewhere between 10 & 11 drops * 25)
pH: 8 (or more). But it needed just a drop (from the acid demand test) to bring it down to ~7.6

Should I just lower the pH with HCl and then watch how things change?