Hi, first post here.
My pool guy stopped showing up, it got green and I decided to try and maintain it myself.
It's roughly 22,000 gallons, built in late 70s/early 80s.
Looks like the pump and filter were replaced before my wife bought the house in 2014 (it was a flip).
3/4 HP Waterways pump, Sta-Rite System 3 filter (7).
I discovered the 3-way valve (bottom drain/skimmer) was broken inside. I had to redo the plumbing from the pump to the filter. Capped off the bottom drain for now (getting conflicting info about usefulness and safety). The skimmer does not connect to the bottom drain; there is a port with a vented cap in the pool wall just below it.
I bought a Vac Mate so I could run the skimmer and vacuum at the same time. Vacuum is a Hayward 4-wheel drive model, it works pretty well and it's only 3-4 years old. I've taken it apart a few times to clean it out if it gets clogged.
I have finally gotten the pool and water cleaned up as best I can. It's nice and clear now, but the chemistry is not ideal. Here's what I got from Leslie's:
Phosphates were super high, I guess that's to be expected what with all the algae. I added half a quart of Orenda PR-10000 to try and get them down. Going to retest the water Saturday. CYA is off the charts, though. We have always used tablets instead of liquid chlorine for perceived convenience, but I realize now that's why the CYA is so high.
It has been about 5 years since the pool was drained.
Now, to finally get around to my question: Can I get through the season like this? My plan is to drain it in the fall. I would do it now, but the weather is heating up and expected to be in the 90s for a while, and here in Bakersfield, we do not have mild summers.
I could do a quick drain and refill, but a few tiles have fallen off and need to be reattached, and the light may need to be replaced (I'm going to check all the other wiring first. Already replaced the GFCI outlet and the switch. I am going to pull new wires from the junction box to the switch and to the GFCI. Couldn't hurt. It trips the GFCI after a few minutes or a few seconds. Bulb has been replaced and the housing is not leaking). So it will take me a few days if not a week to make the repairs.
Thank you for any advice!
Patrick
My pool guy stopped showing up, it got green and I decided to try and maintain it myself.
It's roughly 22,000 gallons, built in late 70s/early 80s.
Looks like the pump and filter were replaced before my wife bought the house in 2014 (it was a flip).
3/4 HP Waterways pump, Sta-Rite System 3 filter (7).
I discovered the 3-way valve (bottom drain/skimmer) was broken inside. I had to redo the plumbing from the pump to the filter. Capped off the bottom drain for now (getting conflicting info about usefulness and safety). The skimmer does not connect to the bottom drain; there is a port with a vented cap in the pool wall just below it.
I bought a Vac Mate so I could run the skimmer and vacuum at the same time. Vacuum is a Hayward 4-wheel drive model, it works pretty well and it's only 3-4 years old. I've taken it apart a few times to clean it out if it gets clogged.
I have finally gotten the pool and water cleaned up as best I can. It's nice and clear now, but the chemistry is not ideal. Here's what I got from Leslie's:
Phosphates were super high, I guess that's to be expected what with all the algae. I added half a quart of Orenda PR-10000 to try and get them down. Going to retest the water Saturday. CYA is off the charts, though. We have always used tablets instead of liquid chlorine for perceived convenience, but I realize now that's why the CYA is so high.
It has been about 5 years since the pool was drained.
Now, to finally get around to my question: Can I get through the season like this? My plan is to drain it in the fall. I would do it now, but the weather is heating up and expected to be in the 90s for a while, and here in Bakersfield, we do not have mild summers.
I could do a quick drain and refill, but a few tiles have fallen off and need to be reattached, and the light may need to be replaced (I'm going to check all the other wiring first. Already replaced the GFCI outlet and the switch. I am going to pull new wires from the junction box to the switch and to the GFCI. Couldn't hurt. It trips the GFCI after a few minutes or a few seconds. Bulb has been replaced and the housing is not leaking). So it will take me a few days if not a week to make the repairs.
Thank you for any advice!
Patrick
You've done a lot already 
, but now it appears you have one important step to do ...... get your own proper test kit. Either a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. You cannot trust those free tests. They are often incorrect. I suspect the CYA will be a first-stop area to address, but don't guess. Post results from your own test kit so we can help you save you time, money, and headaches. Then we can help you get all the chemistry in line. Until that time, be sure to add about 1/2 - 1 gallon of liquid chlorine to the water each day. A pool your size needs that much free chlorine, especially if the CYA is elevated.
