Can't keep chlorine level in my salt water pool

RockyTopPool

Member
Sep 12, 2022
8
Tennessee
Hi Guys,
I suspect this question has been asked before, but such is my ineptitude that I couldn't seem to find a thread about it. Anyway, my circumstances are as follows:

1. I am a relatively new pool owner with our first swimming season in our newly installed pool being last summer after we installed a new salt water pool in the Spring. I had relatively few problems which pretty much dropped to zero when I got a TF test kit here. Everything has been totally fine from the opening this year with the water crystal clear. The only problem of note was this summer (for the first time) I note a build up of a powdery gray substance on the pool bottom when I neglect to run the robot every couple of days. It's super fine and goes into suspension and disappears if you disturb it, but the robot does a great job of sucking it up. From research, I'm pretty sure it's dead algae, but it's not really a problem and the water is crystal clear.

2. However, over the last week or so I've had a hard time maintaining the chlorine level in the pool. We've had killer sun but that notwithstanding, I didn't have this problem last summer and my CYA level is 60 so I'm figuring the chlorine should be pretty stable. That said, my chlorine level has dropped to 0.5 and I've even got the chlorinator cell cranked up to 100% (to no avail). In desperation, I dumped a pound of granulated shock in the skimmer (our pool volume is 23,000 gallons) to see if that would help. I know that's not much but I didn't want to overdo it. That bumped the CL level up marginally, then it dropped again. Two days ago I put in 2 pounds of shock and it bumped the level up over 1.0 but this morning I'm back to 0.5 again. Also, normally when I run the chlorinator at anything over 60 to 70%, I have to add Ph Down because of the NaOh waste product that drives the Ph up. But through all of this my Ph has remained very steady at around 7.6. It kind of seems like maybe the chlorinator cell is not working, but I cleaned it at the start of the season and there doesn't appear to be in build up on it. All of the other water chemistry is within acceptable parameters and again, the water LOOKS great.

3. I'm using last season's left over reagents, etc., but the chlorine level is down not only by the 'quick test' but also by the more accurate Free Chlorine test. I can see maybe one of the reagents being bad, but the results match from the two different tests.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob in TN
 
How are you testing your water? Post a full set of results.

You likely have algae, even if you can't see it. Do this test tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you fail, time to start the SLAM process to clear the pool Link-->SLAM Process
Sorry for the delayed reply. I had to make an unexpected trip out of town. Following are full test results from this morning:

Quick Daily Test
CL = 0.5
Ph = 7.8

Weekly Test
FC = 1.0
CC = 0.5
TC = 1.5

CH = 225
TA = 70
CYA = 60
Salt = 2400

Other that the chlorine numbers, the pool is crystal clear and looks great. Also we have a pool party scheduled for July 4th and a lot of other irons in the fire, so I'm not sure I'll be able to get the OCLT or SLAM (if necessary) done before then. I'm planning on adding some Ph Down today to get the pool down into the 7.5 range and then I'll just add some liquid chlorine to ensure the pool is at a safe swimming level and commence corrective measures on July 5.

Any other observations appreciated. Thanks for the help.

Bob
 
Don't use pH down. Adds sulfates to the pool. Use muriatic acid. However, pH of 7.8 is just fine, leave it alone. Any pH in the 7s is just fine.
You need to get chlorine in there and follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
 
Don't use pH down. Adds sulfates to the pool. Use muriatic acid. However, pH of 7.8 is just fine, leave it alone. Any pH in the 7s is just fine.
You need to get chlorine in there and follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Too late. Already added the Ph Down before I saw your reply, but I will remember on a forward basis. After reading the article I get the FC/CYA relationship, but I downloaded and tried using the Poolmath app to calculate chlorine needed and honestly I found the app less than 'intuitive.' That may just be because I'm an old guy and not at all into 'apps.' I do have a question regarding the reference to 'liquid chlorine' which I presume that means 'pool chlorine' as sold at Lowes and the other big box stores? If so, isn't that 'stabilized chlorine' which (I think) will also impact CYA levels? Should I just be using regular chlorine bleach?
 
Okay, I answered my own question. Regular bleach isn't strong enough so I'd have to use copious amounts. It appears that sodium hypochlorite is NOT stabalized with the addition of CYA so I'm presuming that's what I need to be using.
 
Our replies crossed, but no, there are no Menard's in Tennessee that I know of. Lowe's and Walmart both stock 'Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid' which seems to be 10% sodium hypochlorite. I presume that's what I'm looking for (more or less)? It looks like from the charts I need to target FC and 4 to 9 (with a minimum of 3) and that to SLAM, I need to get it up to 24. Now I just have to figure out how much I need to do that.
 

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Something to think about after you do the SLAM - What salt level does your cell indicate is optimal? Your salt seems a bit low, maybe bring it up to 3000 and see if that helps it produce better? Are you getting any errors displayed?
 
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