I have been following this wonderful forum since we purchased our house with pool back at the end of November. The pool I know has been feed a steady diet of Trichlor pucks prior to us moving in. I am starting to plan out my early spring plan of attack but I want to bounce it off of the forum. My plans are definitely to go BBB.
First off the pool looks fantastic any if not for the 48º water it looks mighty inviting. It has looked this was since we moved in. I knew my chlorine was high because I could not read the values on a standard test kit so I bought a TF100. The first FC value was 16ppm and the CYA was 100. CC has always been 0. (Note though that the first CYA reading of 100 was read indoors at night and I have later tested it closer to 80ppm outside in the sun) I removed the last puck from the auto dispenser and no chlorine has been added in 1-1/2 months. The FC has only dropped to 12ppm. OK I know with high CYA the FC needs to be higher also.
My question is would you do a partial water change to bring down the CYA thus the FC requirement as well? My TA has been bouncing between 100-110 (the color change seems right on the edge). My tap water is 110ppm so a water change will do nothing there. With my tap water that high is it futile to lower the TA via lowering the pH than aerate or leave it at 100-110ppm? CH is 320ppm by the way.
So my thoughts are doing a 50% water change early spring to bring down the CYA from 80ppm to 40ppm. If I do the 50% change that will also bring down my CA to 160 ppm so I will have to add calcium chloride to get it back up to 300ppm. So my question to you is what would you do just switch to BBB and not change the water or do the 50% change? Also when would be the best time to do the water change? I am thinking soon so I don’t have to wait for the water temp to rise again.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
First off the pool looks fantastic any if not for the 48º water it looks mighty inviting. It has looked this was since we moved in. I knew my chlorine was high because I could not read the values on a standard test kit so I bought a TF100. The first FC value was 16ppm and the CYA was 100. CC has always been 0. (Note though that the first CYA reading of 100 was read indoors at night and I have later tested it closer to 80ppm outside in the sun) I removed the last puck from the auto dispenser and no chlorine has been added in 1-1/2 months. The FC has only dropped to 12ppm. OK I know with high CYA the FC needs to be higher also.
My question is would you do a partial water change to bring down the CYA thus the FC requirement as well? My TA has been bouncing between 100-110 (the color change seems right on the edge). My tap water is 110ppm so a water change will do nothing there. With my tap water that high is it futile to lower the TA via lowering the pH than aerate or leave it at 100-110ppm? CH is 320ppm by the way.
So my thoughts are doing a 50% water change early spring to bring down the CYA from 80ppm to 40ppm. If I do the 50% change that will also bring down my CA to 160 ppm so I will have to add calcium chloride to get it back up to 300ppm. So my question to you is what would you do just switch to BBB and not change the water or do the 50% change? Also when would be the best time to do the water change? I am thinking soon so I don’t have to wait for the water temp to rise again.
Thanks in advance for your comments.