Dual Heaters and plumbing makeover.

[mwwhited]

I bought a new pump and filter for my pool and was planning on cleaning up my existing plumbing while everything is torn apart. This is for a 24k gallon indoor pool.

1. My biggest question is around the fact I have a heat pump and a gas furnace for the pool, can they be in series where the heat pump may maintain temperature and the heater will only kick in if the heat pump is bypassed of can't get the temperature up or are they required to be in parallel with a check value on the outlet side of the heat pump? I plan on adding a few valves for the heat pump so it can be bypassed and drained for the winter.
2. All of the existing plumbing is 1.5 inch PVC will I have any issues with upgrading everything at my pump station to 2 inch PVC?
3. Should I install check valves between the skimmer/drains and the pump as well as before the return?
4. Are there any problems with installing more unions so they system can be taken apart for service? (you can see from the attached photo that space is at a premium.)

You can't see it in the attached photo but the heat pump is just outside the exterior wall. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-Thanks,
Matt

 

[JasonLion]

Parallel is better if your pump has a fairly high flow rate, enough to keep both heaters happy. Series is better for low flow rate pumps that are not capable of meeting the minimum flow requirement for both heaters at the same time.

Upgrading the equipment pad to 2" pipe is a great idea.

Check valves are not recommended for routine installs. They are only used if specific, and uncommon, issues come up. Is there some reason you think you need them?

More unions means more places there can be leaks. This is only a small effect, many people use lots of unions. Personally, I am against that style of plumbing, but there is no strong reason to go either way (lots or few unions).

 

[mwwhited]

I am installing an EcoStar VSP and a C3030 cartridge filter. The original pump is 1HP (I'm changing because the EcoStar should use a lot less electricity and will allow me to control the flow rate.)

As for the check values I thought they were required based on different plumbing diagrams I've seen for pool. It is a good 20 maybe 25ft from the skimmer and over 40 to the return. The existing setup only has one check after the sand filter. It does seem to prime pretty quick.

 

[JasonLion]

You will want to run the EcoStar at a relatively low speed, which will strongly favor plumbing the heaters in series. The EcoStar could be run at a higher speed and work with the heaters in parallel, but that would be noticeably less energy efficient.

Unless you have a spa, or solar heat, or the equipment pad is well above the pool water level, you don't want any check valves. Horizontal distance doesn't make any difference.

 

[mwwhited]

Excellent, thanks!

 

[mwwhited]

Updated the plumbing (decided to stick with 1.5" after all) the water looks amazing with the new filter