Ideas needed on solving rail/rail cup install problem

steveg_nh · Jan 22, 2015

Hi All,

I'm a bit stumped in coming up with ideas on how to solve this problem. Basically, the rails for my stairs are predrilled at the bottom. I suppose to allow a bolted-in installation in some heavier duty installs (they are commercial grade rails). Well, unfortunately, one of the rail cups was cemented in place, in just the right position, that one of the little grounding clips/tabs always falls right into one of these holes and then flips outward, into the cavity of the rail. The grounding clips in each cup are like a butterfly - there's an upper and lower tab, both connected at a mid point with a screw/rivet.

Anyway, this hole in the rail presents a problem in that when I try to remove the rail in the fall, the clip that falls into the whole holds the rail down. It's the bottom facing clip of course, so it grabs the lip of the hole and prevents me from pulling the rail out easily. I have to basically force the rail out, bending the clip 180 degrees. If I do this any more, I'm sure that ground clip is just going to break out. Maybe I don't need it, as that rail cup would have one more clip, and the other end of the rail has both clips intact, but I'd like to preserve it if I can. As I think about it, if I fill the hole with something non conductive, that clip probably wouldn't be grounding anyway...

I was thinking of something I might be able to insert into the rail end or something I could fill the hole with that might hold up to the movement and pressure.

I'm not sure how easy it is to visualize the problem...hopefully someone has an idea.

Thanks.

JohnT · Jan 22, 2015

I think I'd try packing JB Weld Water Weld Epoxy into the hole from the inside and then smooth the outside to conform to the shape of the rail. I've made some repairs with this stuff that have held up for 17 years and counting.

steveg_nh · Jan 22, 2015

Would it stick to the metal, which is stainless steel? I see they list copper, aluminum, etc, but not SS. Do I need some type of backing? I assume you mean once I fill it, then I can sand it even with the metal, so there is no lip at the hole at all?

JohnT · Jan 22, 2015

steveg_nh said:
Would it stick to the metal, which is stainless steel? I see they list copper, aluminum, etc, but not SS. Do I need some type of backing? I assume you mean once I fill it, then I can sand it even with the metal, so there is no lip at the hole at all?

I would assume it would stick to stainless. May be worth a call to the company or a search for another product they make. With another JB Weld product, patched the front of an intake on a V8 that was leaking water and drove the truck for another 30,000 miles. I figured I'd get a few months out of it.

You would be able to do most of the shaping before it cures. If it doesn't want to stick, you might be able to use an oversize drill to make the sides of the hole taper a little to grab the material.

steveg_nh · Jan 23, 2015

Thanks. This is a good idea. Not sure why I didn't think about it from my days of owning boats.

steveg_nh · Mar 8, 2015

I ended up using 2" PVC central vac pipe for the backer before I fill the hole. This pipe is much thinner walled than regular PVC, so I cut it down the middle, and was able to fit it in the rail opening. Now I can use the JB Weld and it will have something to back it up/adhere to. Thanks!

steveg_nh · Apr 5, 2015

JohnT, just wanted to say thanks again. I got this project done this weekend, and the waterweld sanded up really nice and flat, and super hard. Shouldn't be a problem for me going forward. Granted only 3 of the bonding tabs on this rail will actually touch metal, vs the planned 4, but the one that was landing in the hole wasn't doing much anyway. Can't imagine it will make a difference though. Anyway, here's the before and after pics...

JohnT · Apr 5, 2015

Sweet!