Thanks for all y'all help. I have the mpv working again and I started I new thread in the just getting started section where it is more relevant. THANKS
Pool Leaking After Replacing MVP spider gasket
- Thread starter javaverses
- Start date
on my pool, I did have to cut pipes, and I dreaded it, but once I got started it wasn't so bad. I've replaced the multiport valve twice now, I discovered the hard way WHY you don't EVER lift the valve handle while the pump is running. I found instructions for working with PVC pipe but I never found the specific pool plumbing help I wanted, so I just did it, and it worked out okay. The hardest part was choosing the order of things so I didn't get in my own way with other parts.
This was my first thought when reading about your problem, that you may have had the little "walls" the spider gasket fits into, break like mine did. That required the lower valve body to be replaced, which required pipe cutting.
I see from both your threads now that you got it fixed, what did it end up being? Sounds like you were able to just replace the valve selector and top cover set? Hopefully got some new screws too. Another thing I was considering is that your selector shaft might be sticking in the cover.
This is the first I've heard about going only one direction with the valve. I don't understand what is affected by this? You're lifting the 'manifold' off the gasket so it's not that, is there a seal in the cover that it affects maybe?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Sounds like the designs vary slightly on different models. If it's marked or stated in the manual for only one direction of rotation, follow that guidance, otherwise you are free to swing it either way.
I saw the warning and I just chose to always go clockwise with mine as that's the way "Filter", "Backwash", "Rinse" and "Filter" go. IF the rotating part of the valve is touching the gasketvwhile rotating it just insures it's wearing it in one direction like the wear on a tire where you rub your hand over it one direction and it's smooth and the other direction you catch the feathered edge and it's rough. If that gasket wears over time and gets a little bit of a feathered edge it could catch and tear. Getting in the habit of rotating it in one direction might be worthless but it's cheap insurance "just in case" so to speak.
I'm not sure what part the " selector shaft" is, are you talking about the outer handle?
The little walls for the gaskets seem fine from what I can see. We **think** we have it fixed, and are watching it closely, but to be quite honest I am not entirely sure yet if it is. So basically to recap: 1st we replaced the gasket, 2nd we had the valve and assembly rebuilt with new spring, washers and gaskets. None of that worked in the slightest. 3rd we replaced the entire top assembly and I removed the gasket and cleaned out the lower part again and set sealed the gasket. At this point we was still seeing the occasional trickle of water out the waste line. When I backwash and change the de, we have had a couple of times where it started gushing again, or just draining a little. This only seems to happen now right after a back wash. So what I have been doing that seems to be working is going back to the pump, turning it off, making a complete rotation of the handle back to the backwash setting, then turning it the pump back on. Fairly quickly the water stops coming out the backwash pipe and we are good. I'm not yet confident enough in this to let my pump run over night though.
I am theorizing that the water I am seeing now is just water left in the pipes after the backwash, and maybe I am just being overly concerned because of all the problems we have been having. At any rate the pool store told me that I had 14 day and they would take the new assembly back as long it was in good resell-able condition. If this don't end up working we will just replace the whole darn thing. I'll update if that ends up happening.
As for the valve going in one direction, ours isn't marked in anyway to say it's only suppose to go one direction. However we have chose to go clockwise cause its easier to remember and so far so good. I have seen people say only go one direction many, many places, now that I have done some research on it.
When I first heard of it, I thought, "Well, I'm not sure I understand the DEFINITIVE reason but it does make sense to seat and then re-seat the valve by sliding it consistently one way.
I started doing that right from the beginning and my MPV is now nine years old and seats with no leaks....not a drop. I can't say that that technique contributed to that longevity but, heck, you have to move it anyway so moving it the same way each time required no extra effort.
I have no idea, thats just what I have read. At any rate, the valve started leaking again today, again it was after a backwash and de recharge. I took it apart again and this time it looked like the spokes on the grid had not adheared well after I resetit ithe last time. So I am going to try superglue this time after I clean it out again. Loosing hope on this, but I got to give it another shot. I am in the middle of my first SLAM so its terrible timing.
Sorry, you're right, that was written in a hurry. What I was trying to say was that the 'spindle' or shaft that goes down through the center of the valve top, with the selector handle on top and the 'diverter' or whatever it's called, on the bottom, that might have some friction preventing the spring from putting full force down on the spider gasket. You might need to lubricate that shaft.
And the spider gasket is 'glued' down in a 'track', or 'channel' which has walls to position and hold the gasket in place. I messed up my valve by moving the handle while the pump was running, which broke those little walls and no amount of glue was good enough then to hold the gasket in place, that's why I had to replace it.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I had that problem when I took the top of my MPV apart. I couldn't get the valve's shaft to come free from the top. My filter is out in the open and over the years small amounts of grit got in there and made rotating the handle very difficult. It's a slow process so you don't realize it until one day it seems like you're going to break something trying to rotate that plastic handle. Mine was so bound up that once I had it disassembled except for the valve, spring and top I still had to wiggle it back and forth while pulling to get it to finally come out of the O ring. Under normal conditions it would pop out from just the spring pressure alone. Putting it back together was difficult as I did have to fight the spring to get it compressed to pin it in place. Finally used C clamps. That was after washing all the parts well, drying and then lubricating everything up good and putting in a new plastic washer on the outside under the handle. Reused the O ring and have no problems (so far) but had I had a new one handy I would have replace it. The handle now moves so easy it feels like it's not connected to anything.
The OP had his rebuilt so that spring should have it's full pressure available to seal against the spider gasket. If someone had one leaking and it was difficult to turn it might not be the spider gasket but a bound up shaft not allowing the spring to seal the rotating valve against the gasket.
The OP had his rebuilt so that spring should have it's full pressure available to seal against the spider gasket. If someone had one leaking and it was difficult to turn it might not be the spider gasket but a bound up shaft not allowing the spring to seal the rotating valve against the gasket.
Well super glue seems to have done the trick. It looks like I had not one problem with the valve, but two. One, the gasket kept loosening up (hence the super glue), and when I would glue it down I was having trouble getting the area clean and dry. I think the prior owners must have glued it down several times and not completely cleaned it out, because I had a heck of a time scraping out all the old glue without damaging the area where the gasket sits. The second part I'm still not sure why the top part of the value failed even after having it rebuilt, but the replacement on the top assembly and key is what we ended up going with. We kept the old one, just in case it comes in handy at some point. We haven't leaked in about a week now. Now I just need to get the last of my algae out and chemistry stable.