Brand new Cartridges ruined after one Algae outbreak??

Jun 2, 2014
3
Campbell CA
Hi all, new to pools and new to forum. I have a cloudy water problem that is a residual from an algae problem a few weeks back. Basically, my ex-pool tech believes that the cloudy problem is due to my cartridge filter being clogged due to dealing with an algae bloom, I disagree and most I have talked to also disagree. Interested in opinions from this group:

Here are the details:

Old sand filter (came with the house) died. Replaced with brand new Pentair Clean and Clear plus 420. Replacement took about a week and weather was very hot and so the pool went green and slimy.

Filter replaced, pool shocked, vacuumed,scrubed etc. Ran new filter for 48 hours straight Cartridges removed and backwashed with hose (light pressure) and soaked in muriatic acid for 24 hours after algae.

Within a week of fixing it the pool went very cloudy. Chemistry identified low Chlorine and also a problem with low TA and high PH. Addressing all issues in a cycle ( adding Muriatic, adding baking soda, shocking - retesting). Also, we have very high CYA and until I can get the FC up to 10ppm I don't think we will see a change in water quality. Phosphates are high but will deal with that once I get chlorine right. I cannot drain my pool due to water restrictions so will need to maintain the FC at high levels until the winter.

However, my (ex) pool tech keeps telling me that the problem is the cartridges in the new filter are shot due to processing the algae build up. I took the cartirdges out, they are still practically white, have a little slime on the film but nothing significant. Nothing like what I see on these forums.

So - should I go spend $300 to get new cartridges to replace these brand new ones (we are talking three to four weeks old) or is the chemistry problem the place to focus? On one hand, I can always use the cartidges later, but I would rather not part with the $300 right now.
 
FYI...if your filter/pump ever goes down, you can still keep your water algae free. Test and add your liquid chlorine as you normally would, just brush for 15-20 minutes after dosing to get the water well-mixed.

My bet is that your issue is:
1. FC too low for CYA
2. Didn't complete SLAM process when you "shocked" the pool
3. Need a better test kit - operating based on pool store test results (your phosphate comment)
4. Need more POP to allow filter to clear the cloudy water

I've seen issues like your time and again in the 2 years I've been on this forum. Folks here will stick with you until you have the crystal clear water you want...as long as you follow their methods!

Now I'll duck out of this thread to allow the experts to ask for test results, tell you to read pool school to gain an understanding of the methods taught here, and introduce you to the Pool Math app.

Good luck!
 
Welcome to the forum. :wave:
is the chemistry problem the place to focus?
I am not a good resource for info on cartridge filters but I can say unequivocally that you must have your chemistry correct before your filter can do it's work.

Can you post a complete set of test results? That's the place we always start.
 
I can't say if the filter cartridge is good or bad, but I can say it is likely not the cause of the pool going cloudy that fast. I too suspect the underlying problem is FC/CYA issues but we will not know until you get reliable test results. Experience has shown us that at best pool store testing is hit or miss, and at worst you would be better off consulting a ouji board, we therefore generally recommend a high quality drop based test kit with a FAS-DPD chlorine test, most of us here prefer the TF-100, as it provides the most bang for the buck and is only slightly more expensive than our secondary recommendation the Taylor K-2006 see my signature for link.

Ike
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I have a very basic test kit and yes, I have been going to a pool store for testing and I agree it is way inconsistent.

I just ordered a new test kit with your recommendations, read the SLAM guidelines and will cover pool school shortly.

I will post my chem readings soon!
 
Cartridges getting "shot due to processing the algae build up" is total nonsense. If that was true no one would ever use cartridge filters. Further, even if the cartridges were totally destroyed (somehow) that would not have anything to do with your pool turning cloudy, which must be a chemistry issue of some kind. A damaged cartridge could mean that a cloudy pool never got unclouded, but that isn't what you are dealing with right now.

By the by, you don't want to do an acid wash of the cartridges. It is almost never needed and it shortens the lifetime of the cartridge a little. You just need to rinse them off for a routine cleaning, and do a detergent soak once a year, or when the clean filter pressure goes up from what it was originally. Acid washing is only for when you have calcium scaling of the cartridge fabric, which will be very obvious.
 
Hey all - just thought I would circle back..

First, I bought a Taylor K-2006, world of difference! Second I fired my pool servicer (a 'single pole' operation)

I used the SLAM method and the pool was clear over a weekend. The biggest problem was keeping TA and PH correct during the SLAM but now that it is clear things seem to be OK.

Due to crazy high CYA (the dot disappears maybe 20% of the way to the 100ppm marker) I eliminated pucks and powders and now only on liquid - got on a schedule to shock on Wednesday and load chlorine gradually over the weekend (Th - Mon). I hired a new company that came out and identified a dozen things I never would have found / thought of (I didn't have weir doors, my float valves were shut to drain from bottom only, my secondary booster pump had a improperly installed hose kit leading to a severe loss of power).

Also, due to water restrictions I can't drain my pool by half, but I have been taking it down by 10 - 20% at a time and refilling every three weeks - I figure I will get the CYA in check by August - at least below 100.

And after all that, the filter is totally fine..!
 
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