Looking for advice to clear Cloudy Water

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Richard Question Prompted me to read the instructions of the CYA test again on TFP which are lot more explanatory, I dont think that the reading is 30 ( I thought that was the closest line once the view tube was full :( ). I did another one now the view tube gets full and I can still see the bottom that means my CYA level is zero. I got some CYA and added that according to the Pool Calculator to bring it to 30

06/06---FC was 9.5 in the evening ( loss of 2.5, it was cloudy too in the after noon ) and I added more and got to the 12.5 reading at night.

06/07 --This morning the reading is 12 now (loss of .5) and Water is cloudy ( its raining now so could be due to that )

Checked the FC again in the evening and its still 12 ( It was cloudy all Day ) seems like FC is holding up however the water is still cloudy. PH is some where between 7.2 to 7.5


06/08--- FC is 8.5 in the morning (loss of 3.5) and CC is still at 1.5. Water is still cloudy actually more cloudier than 06/06
 
I added more Chlorine to bring FC back to 12

Do I need to address the low PH ?

All my CYA was dissolved in an hour on 06/06. Should I do another CYA test?

CC is stuck at 1.5. Not sure how to bring it back to below .5. Any suggestions?
 
When above 10FC the PH test is not accurate so ignore that until SLAM is complete.

You could test CYA now but my understanding is it can take a full week to show up on a test. If your not worried about going through your reagents, I'd test it for learning the affects.
 
dizzle said:
I added more Chlorine to bring FC back to 12

Do I need to address the low PH ?

All my CYA was dissolved in an hour on 06/06. Should I do another CYA test?

CC is stuck at 1.5. Not sure how to bring it back to below .5. Any suggestions?
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Keep the FC at 12. Forget pH for now. The CYA may be dissolved into small enough particles to get out of the sock, but they may not be fully dissolved. Wait a few days. Just assume that whatever you targeted, it's there. The CC level can be up and down all over the place during a SLAM. It's normal. Just keep killing algae with bleach and it will eventually go down and stay there.
 
06/08--- FC was 8.5 at night ( loss of 3.5 during the day )
06/09--- FC was 12.5 in the morning (no loss ). it was 7.5 at night ( loss of 4.5 during the day )
06/10--- FC is 11.5 in the morning and 8 at night ( loss of 4 )
06/11---FC is 10 in the morning
 
I guess I keep slamming until the water is clear.

I need advice on how to properly vacuum. I have 5 returns ( 2 on stairs two in the middle and one towards the deep end of the pool ) and two skimmers. Water level is normal. I prime my hose well before I start vacuuming, keeping one skimmer and main drain valve 85% closed to get more suction from the skimmer I use. Once I am done and turn the skimmer and main drain vavle on, it seems there is some air in the system. I could see that my pressure gauge needle keeps moving within 25-26 Psi ( normal pressure reading is 25 ) and not constant at 25 like it normally is. I have to turn off the pump, open pump basket to let air out, I could hear decent grog-ling sound coming from the filter, once I open its pressure valve it goes away after a minute or so.

I turn the pump on, same issue with less pressure on the 3 returns and very low on skimmers.

I tried priming the pump by putting two three buckets of water. some times it works ( I think ) and there are lot of bubble comes in sequence from all the returns starting with the middle one, then stairs once I turn the pump on. I have noticed the return towards the deep end of the pool hardly have some pressure and some time nothing, regardless if I vacuum or not.

I repeat the steps of taking out the air two or three times ( don't prime every time ) and after some times everything gets to normal. I have also tried turning on my Polaris pump ( which I think is for Polaris vacuum pump ) to help my regular pump clear out some of the air ( not sure I should be or not, it certainly reduce the pressure on the filter gauge ). sometime it works, others not

I am thinking I am doing something wrong that I keep having air in the system. any thoughts to avoid it?
 
Once I stopped vacuuming today and turn one of the skimmer and main drain valve back to in line. I opened the filter pressure valve and there was no air, water came out right away.

Now the problem seems to be little more worse because hardly see any suction on both the skimmers now, earlier it was mainly the returns had low pressure after vacuuming. none of my tricks worked today. I see the pump bucket does not have its normal circulation but bubbles ( not sure how to best describe it ) pressure gauge got normal After I open the filter pressure valve. Pressure has increased to 27 from 25.

Anything else I should try?
 
I cleaned the filter today and suction is ok on the skimmers now. The filters were't that dirty especially in comparison to early in the season when the pool was green. Water clarity has improved from last week, i would say 30%.

How long the average slamming period, Its almost 8 days for me now. I am loosing FC on average 4 during the day and at night around 2.
 

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I don't think there really is an average because same person, same pool next year it could be three days or two weeks. I've always cleared mine up in under a week but this year it seemed to take over two weeks. Partly due to poor cleaning at end of last year and then a week of rain when I first opened. I felt it would never clear up. If you're down to adding about 3 quarts of bleach a day you should be close.
Are you vacuuming and brushing daily ??
Any chance you can post a photo of the water ??
 
I am certainly making progress and I agree every pool is different. I am vacuuming and brushing every day ( I skip a day in here and there when I am busy ) I guess my thought process was more like if I am doing everything right.

I am having space issues, I will post the pool picture later since I have to add the equipment pics.

My almost zero suction at skimmers is back after I vacuumed today, to rule out the filter I cleaned them anyways eve though I cleaned them on Friday as well. When I turn off the valve of one of the skimmer and main drain the pressure seems to be ok on the open skimmer

are these the symptoms of clogged impeller or clogged skimmer line? I am adding the picture of my equipment. When I cleaned the filter on Friday and put them back in, the pressure gauge was more like 26 and now its like 29 even after cleaning so filter is certainly working hard on something

My Polaris pump which is in the middle seems to make some sort of noise that water is passing with some obstruction, even though its not on, to the best of my knowledge its used for vacuuming with Polaris vacuum, but when I turn on my regular pump after some time the pipe coming into the Polaris shakes with pressure, why is that? can I turn off its valve? why does the water comes from the Polaris pump in take as well?

I am not using my heater but today it got the Error, CE, which is communication error between display panel and the equipment, not sure its relevant here
 

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If you go up to "settings" in the upper right and click it will take you to another screen. On that screen in the left column will be "attachments" down near the bottom. I think that's where you can delete to make room for new attachments.
 
I am testing twice a day

06/11---FC is 9 at night
06/12--11 in the morning and 9 at night
06/13--11.5 in the morning and 9.5 at night
06/14--FC 13 in the morning and 11 at night ( it was cloudy and raining all day )
06/15--FC 10.5 in the morning and CC is 1

any thoughts on the Skimmer suction issue?
 
Close of all lines except one skimmer. Check the suction on that skimmer. Then leave the valve open for just the other skimmer. Check the suction. Is there a difference? Yes = likely clog in that skimmer line. No = either clog in both skimmers or more likely, a clog just before pump or pump problem.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
I know it's tempting to adjust pH now as it's one of those things you do have control over and you see immediate results (unlike SLAMing !!) but the pH test isn't reliable when you have a high chlorine content. I've read two different levels, some say anything over 10 and others 15ppm FC so you are in the lower end of that. It's something you adjust before you start to SLAM. If you just couldn't help yourself you could adjust it down some I just wouldn't go near 7.2, maybe shoot for 7.5/7.6
 
I was thinking to shoot for 7.8 first. I am little perplexed by the pool math. I have a regular Muriactic acid from Home depot, It says its concentration is <25%. I am selecting 28%-18 Baume option,

which reading I should use. Add 72 Oz of 28% of Muriactic Acid or 87Oz by Weight
 

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