Semi-DIY Build in SE Louisiana

Gunite crew showed up as scheduled and worked into the night.

We had one snag during the shoot. About 1 hour in, the water main broke and left the entire neighborhood with 0 water pressure. Gunite guys were about to pack up and head out when everyone on my street pitched in garden hoses to help us run off a neighbors well on the next street over and 3 houses down. Water pressure from the well was fine, so the crew got back to work.

Unfortunately, my memory card in phone went bad and these are the only post gunite photos that I have.







After gunite I waited a few weeks to start breaking down the forms, cleaning up, and starting plumbing.

The plumbing turned out to be a bigger challenge than I thought, but I'm very happy with it now that it's done. I made a simple pressure tester and everything held.







Lots of 45's, but I really had no choice since I had trees and and existing patio to contend with.









I'm a little concerned about how my spa jets will function, so I plumbed them with separate lines and valves (8 jets on back, 4 jets on legs). If my 3 hp therapy jet pump and 2hp blower motor don't push the jets hard enough, I'll use the valves to direct more to the top 8 jets and just take what I can get from the bottom ones. I also installed a couple of air check valves right by the spa to keep water out of the long blower line. A hartford loop also will help prevent this.










A few things that I learned for any rookie pool plumbers like me ...

Don’t diy unless you can get fittings from a local wholesaler. I found fittings at less than 1/2 the big box price.

Follow the rules: complete coverage of glue on both parts to be attached, Spin 1/4 when attaching, keep hard pressure on the pipes for at least 30 seconds, use primer. I used the rain or shine blue cement, but I guess that's all personal preference. The blue stuff gives you very little time to work, but I felt more comfortable going to the next piece with it curing so fast.

Don’t underestimate the amount of physical strength it takes to keep pressure on all those connections .. It's tiring.
Larger pipe diameters … the 3 inch .. proved to be very difficult. Might have just been my the fittings I had because the 90's went together easily, but the couplers were very tough. Also, I would have considered reducing the number of runs. 12 runs was a lot.


20 foot pipe lengths are well worth it if you can find an easy way to transport … but very few vehicles can handle this. If you can do it, you reduce work, reduce points of failure, and you avoid the additional fittings.


It is critical to get the pipes aligned. This may seem simple/fundamental, but you'd be surprised how many times I ended up in a panic'd stuggle trying to get a 3 inch pipe in a fitting. Then you end up applying a second coat of glue which is too much, etc, etc. The 3's are heavy, bulky, and not too terribly easy to grip at times … unless you're lebron.

In summary … plenty of satisfaction now that it's done … but it was a challenge.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, pool is part filled with nasty water to try to make sure that I don't have a pool pop out. Ugly, but I just can't afford to take the risk.
 
... and now I've finally caught up to where I am today.

Last week I finished up the equipment pad and plumbed all the equipment. I found a sub for electrical and they are about 85% done.


Trench for main panel to pad








The electrical conduit was fairly easy to run. I have 2 for led bubblers, 2 for pool lights, and 1 for spa light

 
I'd pressure up all your lines making a common header at the equipment deck. Pressure up to what ever your house pressure or more and hold it till the deck is in. I see no need to put gravel in the trenches. Why would you? How soon are you planning to pour the deck? By then it will probably have a few rains on it and pack everything back down. Heck the torrential rains we got here today in Gonzales would have filled my pool. Neighbor had 12" in his rain gauge..WoW. But you should see the water everywhere. Pool was so full the water was up on the brick coping and the 2" overflow was flowing fully.

Todd
 
I've seen some comments online (but I can't seem to find it now) about using different fill in the trenches. Some people have talked about some type of material to separate pipes that are layer'd over one another .. like the way if have electrical on top of plumbing and irrigation system on top of electrical.

Just wondering what 'best practice' is. If it doesn't make a difference, then I'll just throw in the material that I pulled out.

We had the rains down here, but not nearly as bad. I pumped out my trenches, but I didn't get to the point of having the plumbing lines floating a 1/2 foot off the ground like I did with the rains in March and April. They are forecasting rain for today and tomorrow ... hopefully I'll get lucky again.
 
Never heard any bad info on covering stacked pipes. I'd just refill only after all the lines are full and pressured up for a few days. Backfill with material removed to make trench.

Got my pool running today. Found the number to my brothers electrician that did his pool. He said my electric guy was close. He install a few more jumpers, plugged in another relay and started the pump in manual. PH was up there after a few hours of circulation so added acid to lower. He said to wait until tomorrow to add shock and chlorine. And not to run clorinator or cleaner for another 3 weeks.
 
I made some good progress over the last week. Filled in all my trenches (with plenty of help) and formed up the two deck areas. Filled those with about 5 inches of limestone.

I had to cheat in two places on my plumbing work. I used 4 foot pieces of flex because I did not want to try my luck at bending rigid pvc. We have plenty of termites in my area, so I'm probably taking a big chance with buried flex. I tried to gain a little protection by coating all flex with a flexible primer I found at an auto parts store. Then I coated with a flexible paint that is designed for stucco. It may fail, but I thought it would be worth a try.



The soil was starting to wash out under my equipment pad, so I put in rocks from a big box store. This was the first time I estimated correctly on the number of bags needed for something on this pool.



Travertine coping arrived from Stone Mart. I am extremely happy with the quality of the stone I recd. Only 2 pieces broken out of 240. This was the second time I estimated the right amount of material. I ended up with 6 pieces to spare for future breaks/replacements. :cool: Shipment was recd 4 days after ordering.



I rented a paver saw and cut every piece to try get a tight finish. Like all parts of this pool build, this turned out to be a much bigger job than expected. I put in about 36 hours cutting time. I have not set in place with mortar yet, but here's a pic of the coping dry fit. When complete, I'll be in for about $1,900 total cost to install. Anyone want to give me a guess on how much it would have cost for a contractor install?



 

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I've been working on the coping set for about 1 1/2 weeks now. It took a little time to get familiar with it but I feel good about the results now that I've figured it out.

Tips for those who self install:
* thin set needs to be thick to avoid having the coping slide away from the pool
* don't use any type of regular drill to mix thinset ... the drill will die. you need a low speed mixing drill and an egg beater style mixer attachment
* a rotating laser level is a must. go out in the evenings to shoot and install 1/4 inch masonite boards.
* My gunite has been curing since late feb, so it's very hard. if you're going into hard concrete, use a concrete drill bit to start your hole and then hammer 1 or 1.5 inch masonry nails to hang masonite. Takes some getting use to, but it works.
* the travertine wholesale places are quick to tell you to use good thinset like flexbond. don't underestimate the price of this stuff. It is eating into my cost savings considerably.

Would I do it over again ... yes. Mainly because the installs that I've seen on most pools involved little to no cutting. every piece of coping is cut on mine and I feel that's worth it. Also, still saving some cash. And, working with laser level is really cool!









 
Would I do it over again ... yes. Mainly because the installs that I've seen on most pools involved little to no cutting. every piece of coping is cut on mine and I feel that's worth it.

I couldn't agree more. When we signed the contract for our pool patio and coping, I made them write in there that coping would be cut so all joints were even. I did not want them just laying stones out with large gaps at the front and back on the turns of the pool. It looks fantastic when cut. It took them about 4 solid days, or 2-3 guys to get the coping done the way I wanted it, but so worth it.
 
Looking great. I'm DIY my pool right now in Phoenix. Waiting anxiously for pre-gunite inspection today. Thinking of tiling the bar stools myself. Can you use any silicone-based adhesive and grout?

Le

Not sure about silicone adhesives. I plan on installing 1x1 glass on the sides of my stools and some kind of stone on top. Vendor recommended thin set is custom building products megalite or megaflex. I called CBP and they said that you should go megalite if it's a thicker bed (3/4 inch) and megaflex if it's a typical bed (1/4 to 1/2 inch). They said these are the products they recommend when working in a pool. Pricey .. but better safe than sorry.


Waldog: thanks ... it's challenging, but I really like learning new things and DIY.
 
Completed setting the coping earlier this week. Hopefully it won't take too much time to grout. I'm going to go with the Polyblend sanded grout from HD. Would appreciate any tips if anyone has re-grouted before.

Just a few mistakes on the coping ... but overall I'm satisfied. Looking more and more like a pool ...







 
Received our order of NPT arctic lagoon 1x1 glass tile from ctileplusonline. Everything looks great. Apparently 2 cases got "lost" in transfer from NPT warehouse to my house. The ctileplusonline folks were very responsive and made right on it by sending me the 2 cases direct from their shop (at their cost as far as I could tell). They were also very helpful with answering questions about self install and what materials and methods to use. Two huge thumbs up for them.

Another TFP member (ccisotope) helped us out with a tip on glass tile installs. Their installer mentioned that you can change the tint/shade of the tile by using different color thinset. I'm looking into mortar coloring products right now, and it looks like were going to try to go with either of these two. Any opinions welcomed ...

 

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