Hi,
I am so grateful I found this website/forums. There is such a wealth of info for the newbie and experienced pool/spa owner. Just reading through Pool School (and I need to do it over and over again to really GET it), I feel that I am learning more than the average pool service person.
Currently, I am on my second pool guy b/c the 1st one hit 3 strikes, so he's gone. I am now on pool guy #2, but at this occurred at the same time as having found this website. Eventually, I want to take over handling my pool chemistry, but for now with having recently moved into our home, still getting settled, and having 1 year old twins, it would just be easier to have a competent professional handle it. Even though we have a spa I am managing, I would prefer not to store muriatic acid or other pool chemicals for the time being while the boys are young.
Regards competent pool pros, I have been in contact with a service company who manages many pools including public recreational pools. Hence, they are monitored by DPH. Anyhow, they use Taylor 2005 test kits, and that brings me some added comfort vs. the pool guys who use test strips. Yes, it is the 2005 vs. 2006 kit, but if I am really concerned I can purchase my own 2006 or equivalent TF kit. As such, I will be switching to this company who uses the Taylor kit.
The company told me that my conditioner level is >100. Also, I asked if they use floater for tablets, and they don’t. From what I have read here, the tablets will add to an already high CYA level. I was told and understand that my best bet is to do a partial drain. Will anyone chime in on this? For Non-SWG pools, the chlorine/CYA chart just goes up to 100. Can this pool be managed/maintained with CYA at or above 100? What are the pros & cons?
Secondly, about 2 weeks ago, a big chunk of the plaster on a side wall came off. Just my luck that that would happen and we recently bought our home. From what I have gathered, the pool was built in the 70s and was acid washed a few times from leftover records I found that were passed from one owner to the next, but I can’t determine when the last time it was plastered. This poses some questions:
1. When is it necessary to replaster?
2. Is it wiser to re-plaster or to repair? Yes, I understand there is a big cost difference between a repair vs. replaster, but my thinking was that why repair if we are going to be here for quite some time.
3. Is it smarter to repair and try to squeeze as much life out of my existing plaster job?
4. Could the unbalanced water chemistry have added to this plaster problem?
5. If we had to eventually replaster, we had thought about gunite because of its durability, but we were not sure about the other stuff such as pebble tech or quartz finishes. What are my best options for strength, durability, and chemical/wear resistance.
Lastly, I read about reverse osmosis on this site. Could that be an option for the high CYA? May not help the situation though with having to repair or replaster.
Thanks for any help.
View attachment 28747
I am so grateful I found this website/forums. There is such a wealth of info for the newbie and experienced pool/spa owner. Just reading through Pool School (and I need to do it over and over again to really GET it), I feel that I am learning more than the average pool service person.
Currently, I am on my second pool guy b/c the 1st one hit 3 strikes, so he's gone. I am now on pool guy #2, but at this occurred at the same time as having found this website. Eventually, I want to take over handling my pool chemistry, but for now with having recently moved into our home, still getting settled, and having 1 year old twins, it would just be easier to have a competent professional handle it. Even though we have a spa I am managing, I would prefer not to store muriatic acid or other pool chemicals for the time being while the boys are young.
Regards competent pool pros, I have been in contact with a service company who manages many pools including public recreational pools. Hence, they are monitored by DPH. Anyhow, they use Taylor 2005 test kits, and that brings me some added comfort vs. the pool guys who use test strips. Yes, it is the 2005 vs. 2006 kit, but if I am really concerned I can purchase my own 2006 or equivalent TF kit. As such, I will be switching to this company who uses the Taylor kit.
The company told me that my conditioner level is >100. Also, I asked if they use floater for tablets, and they don’t. From what I have read here, the tablets will add to an already high CYA level. I was told and understand that my best bet is to do a partial drain. Will anyone chime in on this? For Non-SWG pools, the chlorine/CYA chart just goes up to 100. Can this pool be managed/maintained with CYA at or above 100? What are the pros & cons?
Secondly, about 2 weeks ago, a big chunk of the plaster on a side wall came off. Just my luck that that would happen and we recently bought our home. From what I have gathered, the pool was built in the 70s and was acid washed a few times from leftover records I found that were passed from one owner to the next, but I can’t determine when the last time it was plastered. This poses some questions:
1. When is it necessary to replaster?
2. Is it wiser to re-plaster or to repair? Yes, I understand there is a big cost difference between a repair vs. replaster, but my thinking was that why repair if we are going to be here for quite some time.
3. Is it smarter to repair and try to squeeze as much life out of my existing plaster job?
4. Could the unbalanced water chemistry have added to this plaster problem?
5. If we had to eventually replaster, we had thought about gunite because of its durability, but we were not sure about the other stuff such as pebble tech or quartz finishes. What are my best options for strength, durability, and chemical/wear resistance.
Lastly, I read about reverse osmosis on this site. Could that be an option for the high CYA? May not help the situation though with having to repair or replaster.
Thanks for any help.
View attachment 28747