During a properly peformed SLAM, the color will change noticably and quickly. The cloudiness clears much more slowly, but the range of rate change is very wide. Some people see clarity changes very quickly, others very slowly.
Algaecide and shock calculation help - green pool
- Thread starter Hound Dog Charley
- Start date
Interesting... I must have done something wrong... I even slammed it with a gallon more chlorine than the pool calculator called for and I didn't see a lick of difference at first.
The only thing that I can think of is that the pool store's chlorine isn't as potent as they claim. They claim they won't sell it if its less than 12.5%, and that that tested it at 14% a few days ago. Think this is possible? What is the cheapest source of liquid chlorine?
I guess I'll just throw in the towel until my test kit gets here.
Remember, you're basing the SLAM level off questionable CYA levels obtained from pool store testing. What if it turns out your CYA is actually 60? I'd keep the FC at least 10, to stall the algae bloom until you can approach it properly.
This is true.
I had the CYA tested at 2 different pool stores.
First was Leslies, 70 CYA.
Second was local pool store that I thought did a great job with their testing. First test was zero, I said that can't be right. Second type of test was zero as well. Then she got 40 off a test strip. so wtf knows what my CYA is
Stopped by Leslie's today while running errands more out of curiosity than anything. FC is at 4.
CYA is at zero. So I've had 5 different CYA tests. 2 from Leslie's, one at 70, then one at zero 3 days later. 3 at pool store, 2 were zero and one 40.
What gives? Why can't these supposed experts accurately measure CYA? And if they can't do it accurately how am I supposed to in a few days once my TF-100 kit arrives? From what I understand the SLAM calculations vary greatly based upon CYA level. How is the test I'm about to get so much different from any of the tests the pool stores do?
CYA is at zero. So I've had 5 different CYA tests. 2 from Leslie's, one at 70, then one at zero 3 days later. 3 at pool store, 2 were zero and one 40.
What gives? Why can't these supposed experts accurately measure CYA? And if they can't do it accurately how am I supposed to in a few days once my TF-100 kit arrives? From what I understand the SLAM calculations vary greatly based upon CYA level. How is the test I'm about to get so much different from any of the tests the pool stores do?
Exactly.
Strips are worthless, it doesn't matter if it's read by eyeballs or by a computer scan. CYA seems to the most "all over the place" result given by pool stores.
The CYA test must be done in the proper light with the proper distance from the view tube. It is the most subjective of the tests, but once you do a few of them, it's not difficult.
- Jul 1, 2013
- 220
After you get your test kit and do the cya test a few times ... you will still wonder why the pool store can't do the test correctly. It isn't rock science. It does take a bit of getting used to though.
Nothing in the test kit is very difficult to do - it just takes practice.
Nothing in the test kit is very difficult to do - it just takes practice.
I believe the pool stores don't really care too much about CYA because they don't acknowledge the CL/CYA relationship taught here. If they acknowledged it, they'd have to admit that the tabs they sell so much of eventually will lead to problems.
It is odd that the pool store tests vary so much. They aren't worth the price. While the CYA test is harder and it took me a while to get confident at it, my results never varied that much. Now that I've done it a few times, my numbers are very consistent. Others have posted pool store pH results from multiple stores with values at opposite ends of the scale. I don't see how you could confuse that, not even with test strips, which theoretically should be fine for pH.
Hound Dog Charley, when you do the CYA test remember to run the test at least a few times with the same test. The fluid can be poured back and forth for several minutes and you can average out the test results. You should also read the extended test kit directions if you haven't got that far yet, http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/24188-Extended-Test-Kit-Directions.
Hound Dog Charlie - I know your frustration...I just went through this same thing. I tried to clear up my green pool using test strips and varying pool store tests. I spent almost $500 on everything they recommended, all of it just wasted. Finally, after being so frustrated, I read everything I could in pool school...took a deep breath, ordered the TF-100 and bought some Clorox bleach from Sam's Club. Once the test kit arrived, I did the best I could (not really being a chemist at heart) - and the tests were dead nuts simple. Plugged the numbers into pool math, began slamming the pool according to the recommendations and three days later it was clear! Trust this method...it works. The experts on the forum will help every step of the way. The best part is YOU are in charge...fire the pool store. Good luck - and post an after picture!
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Without a doubt Casey!! - now we've just got to make it through tornado season in OKC!
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Thanks everyone for the replies much appreciated. Your pool is looking awesome jdwolf.
I posted a little visual update below, I posted my before picture as well for reference. Still waiting on test kit, hopefully today. As you can see it is getting better. The water is actually very clear when seen up close, I probably should have added a close up, too late now. It really just has a green tinge to it and thats it. I think I just got lucky TBH, plus it wasn't too awful to start and the cold water limited any growth.
A couple questions. What's with the white foam? I haven't added any algaecide. To recap I added 7 1/2 gallons of 13.5% liquid on the 21st and brushed it. 2 1/2 gallons on the 22nd, I brushed it again and cleaned the filter. And yesterday the water got warm enough for the Pentair IC-60 SWCG to start working. I started running that at 100% yesterday around noon. The foam just appeared this morning. During this time I also added 160 lbs of salt to get my level back to the required level.
Thanks again for the help.
before
today
I posted a little visual update below, I posted my before picture as well for reference. Still waiting on test kit, hopefully today. As you can see it is getting better. The water is actually very clear when seen up close, I probably should have added a close up, too late now. It really just has a green tinge to it and thats it. I think I just got lucky TBH, plus it wasn't too awful to start and the cold water limited any growth.
A couple questions. What's with the white foam? I haven't added any algaecide. To recap I added 7 1/2 gallons of 13.5% liquid on the 21st and brushed it. 2 1/2 gallons on the 22nd, I brushed it again and cleaned the filter. And yesterday the water got warm enough for the Pentair IC-60 SWCG to start working. I started running that at 100% yesterday around noon. The foam just appeared this morning. During this time I also added 160 lbs of salt to get my level back to the required level.
Thanks again for the help.
before
today
Received my kit. That was quick.
Here are some #s. I had limited time so couldn't do them all. Plus... my pool is clear as a bell now! It still has a green tinge... but it had this same tinge when I drained and refilled with city water 2 years ago. It goes away after less than a week of running the pump/filter... no idea what causes this.
FC = 16
ph = 7.4
alkalinity = 150
CYA = zero to 20 (container was barely cloudy when full)
So obviously I need to do the sock/CYA thing. I turned off the SWCG as I'd like the chlorine level to come down. What is this foam from? High chlorine level? Again, I didn't add algaecide.
Here are some #s. I had limited time so couldn't do them all. Plus... my pool is clear as a bell now! It still has a green tinge... but it had this same tinge when I drained and refilled with city water 2 years ago. It goes away after less than a week of running the pump/filter... no idea what causes this.
FC = 16
ph = 7.4
alkalinity = 150
CYA = zero to 20 (container was barely cloudy when full)
So obviously I need to do the sock/CYA thing. I turned off the SWCG as I'd like the chlorine level to come down. What is this foam from? High chlorine level? Again, I didn't add algaecide.