I can try that Jason. May I ask you how do I close the heater completely? Right now, the valve is at 8 o'clock. Would I set it to 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock.
The reason I asked about the chlorine output is because initially, before he changed anything, I was dialing in my chlorine to generate 5 ppm. I was running my pump time for 8 hours which he also said was unneccesary. So I changed it to 6 hours. It runs from 11-2 and 6-9. Since the changes, I've I noticed my chlorine dropping so I would bump up the purifier but it didn't increase so now it's down to 2 ppm. I just brought it back up to 5 ppm using bleach. I know, I know, I didn't have to do that but the manual on the SWG says to get the chemicals balanced and then start with 50% clorine output. Don't worry, I don't have any CC. I have just been trying to dial in my chlorine output so it stays at 5 ppm. I don't want 2-3 like the manual says. I want like TFP says. If CYA is 70 with SWG, then my target should be 5 ppm. Anyway, sorry for the long explanation, but I don't know if I need to put the pump time back at 8 hours or if I need to run it at 100% or if I need to put the valve back so it goes to 12 psi?
And prior to changing my run time Jason, I was reducing the chlorine % to like 10-20% because it was generating too much chlorine. So initially, I thought, this guy is right. Reduce the pump time. But I feel like since doing that, now I'm not getting as much chlorine. I don't know. I'm probably not making sense but hopefully you understand.
I am quessing the heater valve has nothing to do with anything and I should leave it where it is because pretty soon, the heater will not even be in use since I live in FL. What I'm thinking is I should reduce my pump time but play with the purifier settings in order to achieve that 4-5 ppm?