Help! 1st Home and Pool

[Toesinsand]

From chem geek "The shock levels shown have equivalent disinfecting chlorine amounts (in a column) but at high CYA levels it may be impractical to use such high FC levels. A partial drain/refill to lower the CYA level is usually what is needed or one can shock at a lower level but will take longer to kill the algae."

This notation is made at 50ppm CYA level when doing a mustard algae shock.

 

[jblizzle]

That does not say it will not work at high CYA ... you just have to maintain a higher FC level which "may be impractical".
You are arguing over the difference between a CYA of 70ppm which I initially suggested and 50ppm ... it does not make much difference.

The impracticality really starts when the CYA get > 90ppm or so and no one here is talking about mustard shock level.

I still maintain that the SLAM process will be fine at 70-80ppm, sure you may use a little less chlorine at a lower CYA, but at the expense of MORE water replacement and having to later add MORE CYA for the SWG.

 

[Isaac-1]

Another thing here is we are talking about water that is cold, algae is less active when it is cold, so you are not fighting its rapid reproduction cycle as much when your going through the SLAM procedure, therefore expect this to relatively easier than if the water were warm. Remember those levels in the chart make certain assumptions like the water is at typical comfortable swim temperatures.

Ike

 

[AestheticWill]

Hey guys thanks for all the posts suggestions, I apologize for not posting back as soon as I have but I've been pretty busy these last few days. And the weather warnings we have been getting have been kinda crazy across DFW. I have drained the pool another 3/4's of the way and I have finally refilled the pool. Here is a posting of my latest pool readings.

FC: 0
PH 7.5
Alk: 80 PPM
CH: 140 PPM
CYA: 50 PPM!!

Is now the time to start SLAM-ing or should I get the get any of the other levels up bit further before I start SLAM-ing?

 

[Leebo]

Most your numbers look really good. You're good to start slamming.

Take your FC level now up to 20 and maintain that level. It will clear up nicely and with the cold it shouldn't take as long. Brush the walls often and vacuum daily.

 

[Isaac-1]

Your CH is a bit low for a plaster pool, you will want to address that and get it up to a minimum level of 250ppm. If you want you can start doing your SLAM using dry Cal-Hypo powder which will add both FC and CH (note not all dry chlorine is cal-hypo, but cal-hypo is very common as it is cheap to make, so read the label closely if you do), it would take about 30 pounds of Cal-Hypo (depending on strength) to raise your CH by 110 ppm, so if you go that route don't use more than 30 pounds before switching to liquid chlorine / bleach to finish the SLAM process. Also if you go this route you will want to switch to liquid chlorine once your pool starts holding FC readings for more than an hour or so even if you have lots of Cal-Hypo left since Cal-Hypo shocking can cause the water to be cloudy removing one of the indicators of when it is time to stop the SLAM process. If you feel this is too complicated, then just add calcium hardness increaser first then start the SLAM process using liquid Chlorine / Bleach.

Ike

p.s. I only mention this method as carrying cal-hypo is a lot easier than carrying bleach that is 90%+ water.

 

[Leebo]

p.s. I only mention this method as carrying cal-hypo is a lot easier than carrying bleach that is 90%+ water.

This is really the ONLY benefit I see using Cal-Hypo over liquid bleach. Cost in my opinion is not really a benefit as other members in the past have suggested. With a 15k gallon pool you will need a 25lb bucket to come close enough. This will raise your CH level up to 240 and add 129ppm of chlorine. This will run you about $100.

Now if you were to choose to use regular Bleach.......
You will start off by needing 15lbs of Calcium Hardness Increaser. This will run about $33.

Now to make up for the chlorine you gain using Cal-Hypo......
With Cal-Hypo IF you were to use the entire 25lbs bucket of Cal-Hypo (highly doubt it. Odds say your pool will hold chlorine well before you use the entire bucket) you will gain 129ppm of FC. To equal this much you will use 23 gallons of liquid bleach. At $3 a gallon (about the price I see at Wal-Mart) this will run you another $70. Add the Calcium to this and it's only costing you an extra $3 to use liquid. Cost again really isn't a benefit as other members stated in the past. I know this all sound confusing. In the end you will learn what your pool need, the terms and what each chemical does. If you have any questions we're here for you with any answers.

The main issue I can see is that I highly doubt you will need this much chlorine. My guess says that your pool should clear up VERY quickly. My gut (no real way of telling) says you will use about 1/2 the chlorine listed above. In the end I see you still needing to use liquid and adding calcium separate to reach your 250ppm goal.

Soooooooooo.......................
I would suggest keeping the two goals separate. I would start off by adding 3.5gallons of liquid bleach as soon as you can. Then test and add enough chlorine to maintain the FC level of 20ppm. The more you can keep your FC level at 20.....the quicker the water will clear. When you get the chance, purchase a 15lb bucket of Calcium increaser and add to the water.





and as always......please don't add the entire dose of any of the chemical's mentioned. Even though this is common sense.....I would hate to see a member get confused and mess something up greatly.

 

[AestheticWill]

So.... I am going with the cheaper option, and that is to bring the FC to 20 ppm with liquid bleach ($# a gallon from walmart) and then buying Calcium hardness increaser from leslies pool supply to bring the calcium up to 250 PPM gradually by adding a bit at a time?

If this is the plan yall suggest. I will keep yall updated tomorrow once I start

 

[Isaac-1]

I would take care of the Calcium first, then tackle the chlorine, but by first that could just be by an hour, CH increaser dissolves very fast.

 

[Leebo]

So.... I am going with the cheaper option, and that is to bring the FC to 20 ppm with liquid bleach ($# a gallon from walmart) and then buying Calcium hardness increaser from leslies pool supply to bring the calcium up to 250 PPM gradually by adding a bit at a time?

If this is the plan yall suggest. I will keep yall updated tomorrow once I start

Sounds like a plan! Don't forget the pictures.....we LOVE pictures.

 

[Dmsattelberg]

Just follow these plans, and in a bout 1-2 weeks, you will wonder what all the fuss was about.....

One thing that was mentioned, and I just want to drive the point home is to brush the pool daily. I was in your shoes over the summer, and the pool I was working on turned out beautiful. Some algae is a little stubborn, and needs to be brushed to "open its protection" sort to speak... It will speed up your SLAM time.

You will have the best looking pool water ever imagined, and you will be mad that the water wasn't 80 degrees....

Best of luck....Happy Thanksgiving

 

[AestheticWill]

Here is an update of the pool, ever since the SLAM its improved from what it originally looked like prior to getting on here for help til after.

 

[Leebo]

Keep the shock levels up there. You're making great progress!! Still got some stuff in the water, but nothing the SLAM process won't take care of!!

 

[Dmsattelberg]

Keep at it....In no time at all you will be able to throw a quarter in the pool and tell if its heads or tails....If your eyes are good, maybe even read the year.

 

[Isaac-1]

Your DE filter should clear that up quickly, just remember that due to DE's great ability to filter that the filter gets clogged quickly and needs frequent cleaning and recoating with DE powder.

Ike

 

[FamilyGuy]

Interesting read with great results. Congrats on your soon to be sparkling pool.

 

[AestheticWill]

Your DE filter should clear that up quickly, just remember that due to DE's great ability to filter that the filter gets clogged quickly and needs frequent cleaning and recoating with DE powder.

Ike

Ike, yes I've been wondering about that, my pump can run at full jet power for about 2 hours (if im lucky) then i start to notice low pressure to the return jets, after a 5 min backwash I refuel the DE grids and count down begins till I loose pressure again. I thought this was my pump going out but I guess this is the beauty of DE.