Bids Rolling In and My Questions Rolling Out :-D

Not only did I look at finished pools, I went out to a build in progress when I winnowed it down to my last two. It was extremely helpful in my decision making process. I went to both on the day they were shooting the shell, and there were several very apparent differences. It was only one day in many for each, but it was still very revealing. If you can do it, I highly recommend it. Also, judge the number of years a builder has been in business, and how many references they are willing to give you. This can be very telling. One builder I eliminated had been "on their own" in the area for four years, and out of the 8 or so references they gave me, not ONE pool was over a year old. I looked at a couple and called all of them. However it was the final straw with me for them. Something else I will add in checking references, is to try and glean how much the owner knows about pools and whether they have had one built before. This also can be very telling.
 
Flamingo Bay said:
3. The pool is going to be about 38K gallon. What hp should a main pump (VS) be proper for this size without overdoing it?

4. I won't have a spa. The only water features are going to be 5 deck jets. Again the two top candidates deal with this differently. One was going to use a 1.5hp booster pump to run the deck jets. The other was going to use an actuator valve. Pros and Cons of each?

5. One PB wants to put in another booster pump to run a Pentair Legend cleaner. Is it really necessary? I thought the purpose of the VS is to run at different speeds to accommodate the different functionality (water feature vs. cleaner vs. water circulation). What's the point of having a VS pump and still have two other booster pumps?

7. Honestly I have no idea since we never had a pool before. I just know we'll probalby want to see the water jets on when we out there swimming or spending the outdoor time - that'll mostly be in the afternoon to evening. So when do the other two functions need to be on usually and for how long? Could I at least drop one pump safely/conveniently? I'm imagining a cost different between a booster pump vs. actuator - can't tell from the bid since one is not itemized.
With all the features and the fact this is a new pool, I would go with a VS pump. That will give you the most flexibility to adjust flow rates and optimize energy use. But I would not under any circumstances get a cleaner that requires a booster pump. There is absolutely no need for that. ThePoolCleaner is a very good cleaner that doesn't require a booster and uses less flow rate than any other cleaner on the market. Also, there should be no problem running everything with a single pump and the proper pipe and valving.


Flamingo Bay said:
8. Heat bend or not - there are a few builders including some large ones everyone knows use heat treated PVC pipes. They touted as a way to improve hydraulic flow. Well, of course the others talked down on it, saying that's where a lot of the leaks happened. Just by common sense, I feel that it's gonna be your weakest spot on the pipe and you are trying to get a product do what it's not suppose to do - I mean that's why fittings exist, right? But the ones using it are giving lifetime warranty on their plumbing. What do you guys think?
It is true that a heat bended pipe will have less head loss, if done properly, but I wouldn't base any decision on who to go with just on that. Like most things, it depends on a competent installer.
 
mas985 said:
there should be no problem running everything with a single pump and the proper pipe and valving.
So out of the four bids we are looking at right now, three of PBs were going with 3 pumps with the main pump being VS anyway. The one that proposes one pump would have Pentair Intelliflo SVRS PUMP (VS + SVRS 3/4 HP - 3 HP) with Jandy never lube 2” X 2 1/2” three way valves. Is this one PB providing a sound solution?
 
There are trade offs. Having individual pumps for each feature is the most expensive but allows for the most flexibility. Have one pump might mean that you can't run every feature at full force but then again, why would you.

If you get rid of the booster by using a cleaner like ThePoolCleaner, that would eliminate one pump and I doubt you would be running the deck jets at the same time you run the cleaner. However, in the off chance you do, you could sacrifice some of the flow to the returns for the jets. When swimming, you won't have the cleaner and you may want the jets so that shouldn't be an issue either. Under non-use periods, you will probably be using the cleaner and the returns but not the jets. At least that is the way I would run the pool.

But some of this will depend on the flow rate requirements of the jets. Some don't require much, others require quite a bit. The Intelliflo can produce a lot of flow rate >100 GPM so it shouldn't be an issue unless you choose very high flow rate jets. Some are as little as 5 GPM which would allow for everything to be run at once.
 
That's great info. I'll check with the PBs on the jets flow rate. And glad to know that Jandy valve is a good one since all the other equipment was quoted Pentair, it seemed odd why Jandy valve here. Thanks, guys!
 
So now I'm trying to compare the strength of the pool shell. I have a couple of builders do 10-12" wall/floor, 14" in transition with 1/2 " steel at 10"x10" and 10" x 5" at stress point. Then the other PB does 9" wall/floor and 12" cove with #3 rebar at 8" x 8" in walls and 8" x 4" in cove and floor.

Could anybody comment on the comparison between the two? Which one would be a stronger shell or they are about same?
 

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I really can't answer this for sure, but I think they will be pretty close to the same.

I went round and round about this early on, and it seems that #3's (3/8) on a 10" center is pretty standard. I want them on 8" and 6" or less in coves/high stress bends in the deep end. He said he will work with me and add more if I like. I will say it's odd at least around here, for anyone to use 1/2" at all.
 
I would think the first is going to be stronger. It has the larger rebar and thicker concrete. But the real question is if you really need it. I had 1/2" done in my pool because we are in earthquake country. But even here, it isn't common to use 1/2".
 
Flamingo Bay said:
So now I'm trying to compare the strength of the pool shell. I have a couple of builders do 10-12" wall/floor, 14" in transition with 1/2 " steel at 10"x10" and 10" x 5" at stress point. Then the other PB does 9" wall/floor and 12" cove with #3 rebar at 8" x 8" in walls and 8" x 4" in cove and floor.

Could anybody comment on the comparison between the two? Which one would be a stronger shell or they are about same?

This is how our rebar looked following the original set of engineered plans...

1zmp1yg.jpg


Since we have a street behind our back wall, the inspector felt that the added movement from cars passing by warranted a re-engineering of the pool structure. This is what it looked like after the drawings were redone. If I remember right, the finished product had the re-bar on the back facing wall spaced at 5". This added about $500.00 to my bill.. :(

2q3ogub.jpg


2447jnn.jpg
 
Thanks, guys! That was helpful :)

Now another question. We have one side of the pool with no deck next to the coping. And it's gonna be above the ground by a foot or so. I never gave it too much thought before, figuring coping and then stone veneer under it on the exposed wall. Now I'm zooming into the details: a standard coping is 1' wide and it hangs over the box beam a little bit. The box beam are 12" wide too. So now the coping would be a little short on the outside of the beam - no big deal if the deck jus takes over but what do I do in this case? A tiny strip of stones? That probably won't look too good.

People might suggest doing a raised wall on this side. But I'm at my budget's end and can't afford to do a 40' raised wall.

Any ideas? Thanks!!
 
Hi there,

Just want to say thank you again for all the help I've got here through my PB selecting process! We finally signed the contract last night. And looks like we'll probably start the dig in early January after permits and holiday out of the way :D

Can't wait to start my new build post :party:
 
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