Getting a low amps blinking light on my Digital Pool Pilot (DIG-220) bought and running since June 2006. The unit is configured and tested so far as follows:
• Software version 4.2
• Original SC-60 cell with 31,800 amp hours
• Power Level 3
• Water has 3,400 PPM salt (verified) @ 84 degrees
• Cleaned cell, shows wear (both outer and middle plates shorter than rest)
• Checked all fuses as good
• Checked cell cable end thru to connection in upper left of power board – good
• Banana terminals are clean and tight
• Unit grounded to pumps & earth
• Setup as 230V, verified both sides of contactor show 115V output
• Both fans not working – BUT both work if put jumper from power board ground pin to fan black wire (bypassing control/display board)
• Checked fan connection on back of control/display board, re-soldered 3 pins, continuity good, fans still do not work
• Some (brown) minor heat damage showing at top left of power board (see pictures)
• Some capacitors showing slight bulge on top (see pictures)
PROBLEM 1: So, the Low amps / Check Cell error messages seems to be a little strange in that it fixes itself over time. Here is a table of two separate tests of volt / amps over time with the unit on boost mode:
FIRST BOOST TEST (“cold”)
Turn on: 22v @ 4.6 amps
5 minutes: 16v @ 3.2 amps
20 minutes: 18v @ 3.7 amps
50 minutes: 19v @ 4.3 amps
70 minutes: 21v @ 5.5 amps
110 minutes: 24v @ 7.4 amps
130 minutes: 24v @ 8.0 amps
SECOND BOOST TEST (after turned off for 2+ hours "resting")
Turn on: 24v @ 7.9amps
30 sec: 19v @ 3.5 amps
1 min: 18v @ 3.5 amps
5 min: 18v @ 3.7 amps
20 min: 19v @ 4.5 amps
1 hour+: 24v @ 8.0 amps
So, anyone have any information on this type of problem? I think the power board may be bad (weak??) since the fans are not working, the brown heat “stain” on the top left of the board, and the slight bulge (more like not flat than a bulge at this point) on a couple of the capacitors. On the other hand, it does seem to work after an hour or more.
I also know the cell is showing signs of wear, but I understand these cells should last for about 60,000 amp hours and I am only at half of that. Is this a "weak" cell, or do they either work or not?
And I would sure HATE to have to replace both the power board and the cell!
PROBLEM 2: I must also deal with the fans not working. As I said above, the power board fan connector is showing 12vdc, and if I jumper the ground directly to one or the other black fan wires from the control board side, they both come on. I removed the control board from the case and re-soldered the 3 pin fan connector. Tested between board and end of wire and it’s a good connection. What else is there to try except replace the board?
MY CONCLUSION: So between both problems, I think I’m looking at replacing the whole control box and maybe even the cell. That’s a lot of money to throw at these problems. Also, while the unit is 7 years old, it really should not “wear out” in that timeframe.
HELP: Anyone have some advice as to how to proceed? Sean, any guidance from the manufacturer?
• Software version 4.2
• Original SC-60 cell with 31,800 amp hours
• Power Level 3
• Water has 3,400 PPM salt (verified) @ 84 degrees
• Cleaned cell, shows wear (both outer and middle plates shorter than rest)
• Checked all fuses as good
• Checked cell cable end thru to connection in upper left of power board – good
• Banana terminals are clean and tight
• Unit grounded to pumps & earth
• Setup as 230V, verified both sides of contactor show 115V output
• Both fans not working – BUT both work if put jumper from power board ground pin to fan black wire (bypassing control/display board)
• Checked fan connection on back of control/display board, re-soldered 3 pins, continuity good, fans still do not work
• Some (brown) minor heat damage showing at top left of power board (see pictures)
• Some capacitors showing slight bulge on top (see pictures)
PROBLEM 1: So, the Low amps / Check Cell error messages seems to be a little strange in that it fixes itself over time. Here is a table of two separate tests of volt / amps over time with the unit on boost mode:
FIRST BOOST TEST (“cold”)
Turn on: 22v @ 4.6 amps
5 minutes: 16v @ 3.2 amps
20 minutes: 18v @ 3.7 amps
50 minutes: 19v @ 4.3 amps
70 minutes: 21v @ 5.5 amps
110 minutes: 24v @ 7.4 amps
130 minutes: 24v @ 8.0 amps
SECOND BOOST TEST (after turned off for 2+ hours "resting")
Turn on: 24v @ 7.9amps
30 sec: 19v @ 3.5 amps
1 min: 18v @ 3.5 amps
5 min: 18v @ 3.7 amps
20 min: 19v @ 4.5 amps
1 hour+: 24v @ 8.0 amps
So, anyone have any information on this type of problem? I think the power board may be bad (weak??) since the fans are not working, the brown heat “stain” on the top left of the board, and the slight bulge (more like not flat than a bulge at this point) on a couple of the capacitors. On the other hand, it does seem to work after an hour or more.
I also know the cell is showing signs of wear, but I understand these cells should last for about 60,000 amp hours and I am only at half of that. Is this a "weak" cell, or do they either work or not?
And I would sure HATE to have to replace both the power board and the cell!
PROBLEM 2: I must also deal with the fans not working. As I said above, the power board fan connector is showing 12vdc, and if I jumper the ground directly to one or the other black fan wires from the control board side, they both come on. I removed the control board from the case and re-soldered the 3 pin fan connector. Tested between board and end of wire and it’s a good connection. What else is there to try except replace the board?
MY CONCLUSION: So between both problems, I think I’m looking at replacing the whole control box and maybe even the cell. That’s a lot of money to throw at these problems. Also, while the unit is 7 years old, it really should not “wear out” in that timeframe.
HELP: Anyone have some advice as to how to proceed? Sean, any guidance from the manufacturer?