Wrote you all last fall about my new pool, rising CH, plaster-quartz composite interior. Finally, the end of October, the CH leveled off at 850. I have a kit that's been tested against standards, and I have been consistently getting a reading of 825-850 since the end of October.
Fill water, Central Phoenix, was 170 ppm when tested in June and September. Now, it's gone up to 325-350, my reading and Leslie's. Found out from City that a couple of the plants are being serviced, the canals are being cleaned, so we're getting our water from a different source, which explains the higher CH coming from the tap. Even when the plants are back on line, the CH levels in the tap water will be up and down for awhile. We were going to drain and fill this weekend, since the temps will be in high '60's and cloudy, so no freeze at night. But if we're starting out with water with a CH of 350, won't we be back up to 650-700 or so by the end of the summer? And with the whacky weather we've been having, I hate to wait. This could be the last perfect weekend for draining.
Pool is about 13600-13750 gal. Large Pentair sand filter. VS pentair pump, auto water level. Barracuda for nightly cleaning at rate fast enough to turn over water in pool. During the day, run on 1800 rpm with UV. We use chlorine tabs in summer, and in fall switch over to liquid chlorine.
I know from our previous discussions, and by now, experience, that you can manage a pool with high CH, but it's a giant pain, and I'd like to reduce the amount of time I have to spend worrying about the CSI and LSI levels.
Also, have to clarify that the "expert" did tell me that if one of the other readings is high or low, you can compensate with the others. I've been watching both the CSI and LSI levels. Ph still rises .l almost every night, but it's much easier to keep things in line when the water is cold, but Man, it isn't any fun sticking your arm in that water-- even if it is only twice a week.
Has anyone had any luck with the new product that reduces calcium levels--Caltreat? Maybe that will be an option after next summer.
Thanks, guys.
Fill water, Central Phoenix, was 170 ppm when tested in June and September. Now, it's gone up to 325-350, my reading and Leslie's. Found out from City that a couple of the plants are being serviced, the canals are being cleaned, so we're getting our water from a different source, which explains the higher CH coming from the tap. Even when the plants are back on line, the CH levels in the tap water will be up and down for awhile. We were going to drain and fill this weekend, since the temps will be in high '60's and cloudy, so no freeze at night. But if we're starting out with water with a CH of 350, won't we be back up to 650-700 or so by the end of the summer? And with the whacky weather we've been having, I hate to wait. This could be the last perfect weekend for draining.
Pool is about 13600-13750 gal. Large Pentair sand filter. VS pentair pump, auto water level. Barracuda for nightly cleaning at rate fast enough to turn over water in pool. During the day, run on 1800 rpm with UV. We use chlorine tabs in summer, and in fall switch over to liquid chlorine.
I know from our previous discussions, and by now, experience, that you can manage a pool with high CH, but it's a giant pain, and I'd like to reduce the amount of time I have to spend worrying about the CSI and LSI levels.
Also, have to clarify that the "expert" did tell me that if one of the other readings is high or low, you can compensate with the others. I've been watching both the CSI and LSI levels. Ph still rises .l almost every night, but it's much easier to keep things in line when the water is cold, but Man, it isn't any fun sticking your arm in that water-- even if it is only twice a week.
Has anyone had any luck with the new product that reduces calcium levels--Caltreat? Maybe that will be an option after next summer.
Thanks, guys.