Pentair IC40 is not generating chlorine

[bildpool]

Hello,
I'm having trouble with my Pentair IC40 SWG. I've been searching the topics, but can't quite find solutions to my problem.

Here goes....
My SWG cell has a mfg date of 5/2011. I just cleaned it with acid solution, and had barely any buildup (almost no bubbles).

My chemistry is as follows (as measured using the tf-100 test kit):
FC 1.5 (adding bleach now a couple times a week)
TA 80
pH 76
CYA 50
Salt 3600 (measure by pool store)
CH 700+ (I live in So Cal with hard water, plus hard to discern the change from violet to blue)

On my IC40, I see the following:
Salt level LED green
Power LED green
Cell LED green
Flow LED green
I have it cranked up to 100% (for about a month), but it's not producing any chlorine.

Do I have a bad cell? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a pebble tek pool, about 28K gallons.

The water is clear, some slight algae, and for what it's worth, the cell diagnostics says 60%.

Thanks

 

[Circle-D]

I would double check the salt level. My IC60 does not produce chlorine very well when it gets below 3000. And I had to recalibrate it before. It was reading green, level ok. But it was actually 2600ish...

Chris

 

[bildpool]

I bought some salt test strips, and was reading about 1600, so I dumped some salt in. The IC40 salt high LED started blinking and hasn't stopped. This morning, the salt strips read 3760.

I also bumped my CYA up to 60.

I ran the filter and IC40 all night (after the CYA and salt additions yesterday), still no chlorine production.

I guess my next step is calling Pentair. Any other suggestions?

 

[New2Me]

Are there any bubbles coming out of the returns(is it making any chlorine at all)?
If so, then I think that you should turn off the IC40, and use bleach to:
(a.) shock until the algae is gone,(it's eating the chlorine faster than the IC can make it, you will NEVER be able to kill it with the IC alone, don't use any powdered "Shock" products,they will scale up the IC)
(b.) and you can establish and maintain a FC level appropriate for your CYA level.
Then turn the IC back on at 100%, and dial it down day by day until you stop raising FC and can maintain it at your desired level.
You'll probably end up adjusting it every other day or so if it is a stand alone unit. Mine would be fine set at 50%, but I can only set it at 60% for a few days, and then 40% for a few as that is all you can do without having it hooked up to an automation system

 

[BobinBaltimore]

Just to confirm, your IC40 is a stand-alone, not attached to any automation system (IntelliTouch or EasyTouch)?

 

[bildpool]

My IC40 is part of the intellitouch system, not stand-alone. I've tried measuring the chlorine right at the returns, then comparing to the chlorine level at the other end of the pool, with no difference. I don't see bubbles (but never did).

I'm calling Pentair to discuss today.

Thanks

 

[pfknp]

I am having same problem with my pool but no algae I can discern. (Is there a test for algae?) What was the result from pentair? My unit is less than 4 years old and just out of warranty (of course)...these babies are expensive!

 

[pooldv]

His issue and your issue is most likely algae consuming chlorine faster than the SWG can produce it. Raise FC up to 10, turn off the SWG and Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT). This will tell you if there is organic material consuming your chlorine.

 

[Pogueld]

From my limited experience with my SWG and TFP this year, I too, have found that anytime my SWG can't keep up, there is something organic in the water. In my case, it is usually some type of dead animal (frog, rat, scorpion, flying ants, you name it, I've probably had it) - that's country living for ya!