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Thread: How difficult to replace all PVC myself??

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    How difficult to replace all PVC myself??

    Our piping around the heater/pump/filter is absolutely ridiculous with the number of elbows, turns etc. I am sure Im losing pump efficiency due to friction loss, and want to replace it. My question is, can the valves possibly be saved, or is the PVC glue going to make it impossible to reuse them. I'm guessing that in places that its glued in, (such as into the multi backwash valve) I just cut the pipe back a little bit and use a coupler or new elbow?
    Finally, I'll try to post a picture or two in the hopes that someone might see something that will cause me trouble (and help me avoid it!)

    Not sure if this will work, but here are links to pics of the mess...

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030250.jpg

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030249.jpg

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030248.jpg
    28K IG, stonescapes pebble, raised spa, hayward heater, Pentair Intelliflo, Pentair 60ft DE filter, built around 1980, remodeled 2007.

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Trying to make connections in a tight area where both end points are fixed can be hard, but it's not rocket science. You'll want to play with some pipe and fittings to learn how to measure before assembly so you get things where they need to be when you glue.

    Probably half the time I've tried to save a part like a valve, it's either been more trouble than it was worth or I wound up having to replace it anyway. Make sure you get pressure rated couplers, as there are DWV only couplers for schedule 40.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: How difficult to replace all PVC myself??

    Quote Originally Posted by laff66
    Our piping around the heater/pump/filter is absolutely ridiculous with the number of elbows, turns etc. I am sure Im losing pump efficiency due to friction loss, and want to replace it. My question is, can the valves possibly be saved, or is the PVC glue going to make it impossible to reuse them. I'm guessing that in places that its glued in, (such as into the multi backwash valve) I just cut the pipe back a little bit and use a coupler or new elbow?
    Finally, I'll try to post a picture or two in the hopes that someone might see something that will cause me trouble (and help me avoid it!)

    Not sure if this will work, but here are links to pics of the mess...

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030250.jpg

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030249.jpg

    http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030248.jpg
    Well installing PVC pipe is not hard at all, So the answer to that question would be, It would not be hard for you to do. Where it is glued into a valve, yes you could cut back a ways from the fitting and glue on to there, but by looking at you pics I do not see many places this would be done, What NEW configuration are you planning? I do not see much of a different route you could go, and really not enough to compare to the time it will take. Granted I am not "there to see it but by just going by your pics I do not see a BIG advantage to redoing it.
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

  4. Back To Top    #4

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    -move the pump to the right, and go straight into it, eliminating 2 bends.
    -Coming out of the pump, there are currently 4 elbows, where it seems like there should only be one.
    -coming out of the heater there are FIVE elbows! Again, it seems to me (which may mean nothing since I don't know squat about pool plumbing!) that I could come out with a 45, then use a 90 to go to the valve that splits the pool and spa.
    -going into the heater, I'm thinking I could eliminate 2 more.

    This may not work out like I think, and I don't know how much I'll really gain. But as a firefighter, I know when we're spec'ing out a fire engine design, we lose up to 10 psi for every 90 that ends up in the plumbing. Totally different situation, I realize, but it seems like the same principles would apply. Added to this is the fact that the pump is about 2 feet higher than the pool, which makes it work a little harder, and the fact that I need to add an in-line chlorinator, so I thought I'd do it all at once.

    If someone knows the actual physics behind these things, and can tell me that I'm really not going to see much better suction and return, then I'd be happy to not mess with it!

    Thanks for reading such a long post!
    28K IG, stonescapes pebble, raised spa, hayward heater, Pentair Intelliflo, Pentair 60ft DE filter, built around 1980, remodeled 2007.

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    MJCP's Avatar
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    Refer to Rule Number 1

    While I am not a pool professional, I have 53 years experience in ignoring Rule #1
    and I can assure you I always regret it.

    BTW - Rule Number One - If it ain't broke - Don't Fix It!
    15x32 Lazy L Inground / Concrete - 25,000 US Gal 1979 build
    1.5Hp/ Sand Filter, 7th season with Pool
    Painted cement finish repainted 2011
    BROMINE - (Purchased Home that way) Bleach shock
    400,000 btu Pentair Master Temp NG

  6. Back To Top    #6
    sammm's Avatar
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    While that is a plumbers nightmare, I can tell you from experience that it's not easy to re-route pool plumbing. The PVC is so large and rigid, that it makes it tough to splice new pieces in. Good luck if you do attempt it.
    WetEdge Satin Matrix, 16K gallon, Pentair NSP-60 DE filter, Pac Fab Challenger, 2HP pump, BBB, Polaris 360

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    TFP Guide

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    I have replumbed my whole pool, and while I was a complete rookie with 1 yr pool experience, I didn't think it was that difficult. I do think that spa flex is alot easier to work with then rigid pipe.

    I think if you plan it all out, you wont have many issues.

    Good luck.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    As a ballpark figure, each 90 adds the same amount of head as a foot of straight pipe, which isn't very much if your pipe is sized correctly. Keep in mind this is not the same as adding a foot of head - it will be much less unless you are using very small pipe which causes huge friction losses. In other words, it's probably a trivial amount of flow you will gain by removing a few 90's.

    I agree with MCJP - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I just had to replumb part of my equipment pad to replace my filter and heater, and even though I have a lot of experience working with PVC for various DIY projects over the years, wouldn't you know it I ended up with 1 connection that didn't glue correctly, and it just happens to be one of the connections on my backwash valve, so I can't just cut it out and redo it. Fortunately it's a small drip, but I'm going to have to find something to seal it eventually.
    10k gal gunite inground w/ raised spa, waterfall, Hayward Super 2 1.5 HP 2 speed, Hayward 48 ft2 Pro Grid DE, Goldline PS-8 automation system, Goldline T-15 Salt Cell, Raypak 337k BTU LowNox Heater

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Is that piping 2 inch? If it is, and I'm no expert, leave it alone. IMHO
    Hotrod30

    20 X 40 foot vinyl Borates and Salt Pool
    Rolachem Chlorine Feeder
    Hayward 27 inch sand filter with 80 lbs of pea gravel
    Jacuzzi Splash Pak SP55 DE filter in parallel
    Pentair VF3050 pump

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